If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Please let us know if things are working or not. This is still somewhat a work in progress so don't be too surprised if things magically appear from one visit to the next.
I pulled a plug and looked today. I wasn't sure about what you meant about the threads going to the edge of the casing. Did you mean there would either be a hole with threads to the very edge of the hole which means ho or the threads would fall short of the edge of the hole and there would be a smooth area which would indicate a lopo head?
Either way I took a picture or two.
Head on shot.
Slightly angled.
Almost all of the plugs were a bit lose for some reason. I tightened them all back up and now it will pretty easily spin one tire from a stop. When I go to replace the plugs I'm going to have to find a how to on it since the entire passenger side is a pain in the ass. My hands are all scratched and cut up.
I could be wrong, but that does not look like the E6 lopo head to me. Here are pics of what I mean:
E6 head
E7 head, which is used on the HO motor. Pretty much every other small spark plug Ford Windsor head looks like this:
I'm gonna suggest swapping the fuel injectors to 19# units, and swapping the ECM to a Mark VII unit. If you do have an HO motor in there, doing that should make it run properly.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Ok, so I probably have HO heads then. And it uses the HO firing order. So I guess we can safely say the motor has some kind of HO or aftermarket cam. Do the HO's use a different bottom end than the lopos? Do the compression ratio's differ between the two? What if the previous owner did a head and cam swap on a lopo motor? The motor idles and runs fine with the grey injectors but probably wants the orange ones. Would it be safe to say that it's already using some sort of different computer since it does run fairly well? I'll dig into it this saturday, don't have time because of finals, and check the numbers on the ecm.
You have been a huge help gadget73. Thank you very much for taking the time to help me with this.
Same rotating assembly, pistons are slightly different. Typical lopo is a cast dished piston, 87-93 HO has forged pistons with valve reliefs. I think the compression ratio is a little higher on an HO due to the smaller combustion chamber volume, but its not a significant amount.
As for the ECM, no idea. I'd pull the catch code and verify. Since it runs OK with 14# injectors, I'd say its probably not the correct ECM. If you had the HO ECM but the non-HO (14#) injectors, it probably wouldn't idle, and likely would barely even run just from being really lean. If you need the car to get around, just try and stay out of the throttle until you can verify what you've got in there.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
I'm finally on break and have the spare time to work on the ol gal. I just ordered up some 19lb new style fuel injectors from ebay. It got them for next to nothing, under half of what I would pay for 8 at parts galore.
When and if it stops raining I'm going to get the numbers from the computer that's in there so I can find out if I need a new one.
I've been doing some reading and I think the stock ecm is in there right now. I'm basing this off the fact that reguardless of how long the car has been running, if I shut it off it always takes a few seconds of cranking to get it to start. I belive this is from the fact that 4 injectors are now firing at the wrong time making it a bit harder to start.
Lots of interestingness! If you're fancy and have a dial indicator, you can narrow down the cam question by removing a valvecover and measure the valve lift. If you're ambitious I suppose you could even pull both valvecovers and observe the order in which all the valves open and close. Will definitely be interesting to learn the code off the engine computer.
At least some E7 heads had a "T" cast into the top of the head next to the valvecover. It's upside-down from the fender side of the engine, and located on the right-hand side of each head (underneath the wiper motor and underneath the A/C compressor). My E7s for 302 have that with a "18" in the left-hand corner, and my old factory E6s have an "S" in right-hand corner and nothing on the left. You can also narrow it down by noting the model number of your spark plugs. E6SE heads use Autolite 2545 or equivalent, and D8OE and E7TE both use Autolite 25s. Incidentally, neither set of my 351 heads have anything cast in the spot indicated, just a "23" in the opposite corner on the ones said to be E7s (I trust the builder, but haven't seen the casting number myself) and a "9" on my D8s (possibly denoting the '79 model vehicle they were originally installed on, so maybe my E7s are from a '88 and a '93?).
Funky-looking exhaust manifolds. Must be those neato old Lincoln-only tubular models?
I assume you're in the Clinton, MI out US 12 southwest of Ann Arbor? If so, is there a Parts Galore in that area? The only one I know of is on 8 Mile just north of Detroit.
Lots of interestingness! If you're fancy and have a dial indicator, you can narrow down the cam question by removing a valvecover and measure the valve lift. If you're ambitious I suppose you could even pull both valvecovers and observe the order in which all the valves open and close. Will definitely be interesting to learn the code off the engine computer.
At least some E7 heads had a "T" cast into the top of the head next to the valvecover. It's upside-down from the fender side of the engine, and located on the right-hand side of each head (underneath the wiper motor and underneath the A/C compressor). My E7s for 302 have that with a "18" in the left-hand corner, and my old factory E6s have an "S" in right-hand corner and nothing on the left. You can also narrow it down by noting the model number of your spark plugs. E6SE heads use Autolite 2545 or equivalent, and D8OE and E7TE both use Autolite 25s. Incidentally, neither set of my 351 heads have anything cast in the spot indicated, just a "23" in the opposite corner on the ones said to be E7s (I trust the builder, but haven't seen the casting number myself) and a "9" on my D8s (possibly denoting the '79 model vehicle they were originally installed on, so maybe my E7s are from a '88 and a '93?).
Funky-looking exhaust manifolds. Must be those neato old Lincoln-only tubular models?
I assume you're in the Clinton, MI out US 12 southwest of Ann Arbor? If so, is there a Parts Galore in that area? The only one I know of is on 8 Mile just north of Detroit.
The heads have the e7 spark plug threads, I can pull a plug and get the number off them. I'm going out in a few to check the computer for numbers, Ill also look at the heads but seeing as the numbers are facing a firewall or under a compressor I doubt I'll be able to see them.
Oh and I am in Clinton township, not Clinton Michigan. I was talking about the 8mile parts galore. They only want 6.05 per injector and I got a set of 8 for $26 shipped.
Ok, I pulled the ecm. I'm not sure if this is the orrigional computer or not. All the bolts came right out without a problem. But that may be due to the fact that I think this car spent some time in arizona before coming to michigan.
There is only one part number on it that matches anything on google:
1990 F350 ford dump 5 speed 460 engine, fuel injected one ton, has the following numbers on it:E9AF 14A624 AA GTE
Here is the rest of the info on it (I will try to type it exactly as its aranged on the stickers):
All 0's are zeros except for the one in EPROM and AOD
EECIV SFI-SD12 32K EPROM
F0VF-12A650-B2A G AOD(AOD is double the size of the other digits)
605512AN02 16029 - 62 9H09
8923 1006
E9Af 14A624 AA (GTE) (GTE is double the size of the other digits and in parenthesis)
9H10
AOD
N
I'm off to do some more googling to see what this ecm is out of.
The first two digits indicate year. The letter is the decade;
F = 1990's
F0 = 1990
The third digit designates body line;
V = Lincoln
The fourth position signifies Engineering group;
F = Electrical and Electronics Division; Product Engineering office
The center number, four or more numbers or letters, is the part number.
12A650 = Generic number for ecm's
The A at the end of the number indicates that the part is the first version. If it was revised once, it would be B. If it was revised again, it would be C, and so on. When they run out of letters, it becomes AA, AB, and so on.
B2A = ? Not sure what revision that would be.
I did a search and didn't find a part number decoder on the site. I hope this helps someone out.
Comment