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    #31
    i believe it has to do with the position of all 3 bolts, over or under torquing them somehow affects this. i had it happen to me three times at work, till i got the right torque wrench. the boss told me that it messes with the fluid pressure somehow, and could disrupt the flow as well...
    79 ford fairmont futura 2dr Boss 347/ C4
    89 crown vic 5.0L HO AOD SD
    90 grand marq
    95 Mustang Cobra R
    67 Galaxie 500 2dr fastback R code

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      #32
      I find this a bit hard to believe, as the whole valve body is very rigid. Maybe it makes some difference when reusing old separator plate gaskets, but with new ones there should be no issues. I certainly didn't use any torque wrench when putting my valve body back together, and it seems to work just fine.

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        #33
        Originally posted by jonzo77 View Post
        i hope you didn't start tearing it apart yet!!!?! I work in a transmission shop, and the reason you'd be slipping in 3rd and 4th is that some retard didn't put the filter in at the CORRECT torque spec. that is THE ONLY reason that happens in those trannies!!
        No I didn't, I was going to begin with the work during the end of the winter as I am far far away from the car now.. So just try to change the filter?? How can I tell that the clutches are burned or not? Just try to look in the pan whether there are small pieces of it or whether the oil is burnt? When I checked it it was red, not black, but there was some smoke right after it began to slip.
        Last edited by Lord Iffy; 10-09-2009, 08:59 AM.
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          #34
          Originally posted by John Deere Green View Post
          I find this a bit hard to believe, as the whole valve body is very rigid. Maybe it makes some difference when reusing old separator plate gaskets, but with new ones there should be no issues. I certainly didn't use any torque wrench when putting my valve body back together, and it seems to work just fine.
          Very important to use an Inch pound torque wrench and torque the valve body bolts, valve body to case bolts and filter bolts.

          valve body bolts and valve body to case bolts are 80-100 inch pounds.
          the ATSG service manual says to start with the center valve body to case bolts and work out.

          other directions/instructions I have seen say to torque the valve body to case bolts in increments (65-75-95 inch pounds) from the center out.

          Directions that came with my LenTech valve body says to torque the valve body to case bolts to 95 inch pounds, perimeter (outside) bolts first, then inner bolts then re-torque perimeter bolts to 100 inch pounds.

          ATSG service manual says to torque filter bolts to 80-100 inch pounds. but several other sources (including directions that comes with new filter) say to torque to 70 inch pounds.

          the 3/4 shift and 3/4 modulator valve bores are directly next to the bolt hole that holds the end of filter down. some say over torquing this bolt distorts the metal and valve bore which could cause the valve to hang or stick and lead to OD band failure. One set of instructions suggested torquing this one filter bolt to 50 inch pounds.
          2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
          89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
          88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


          I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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            #35
            Originally posted by Lord Iffy View Post
            No I didn't, I was going to begin with the work during the end of the winter as I am far far away from the car now.. So just try to change the filter?? How can I tell that the clutches are burned or not? Just try to look in the pan whether there are small pieces of it or whether the oil is burnt? When I checked it it was red, not black, but there was some smoke right after it began to slip.
            if the transmission is already slipping, the damage is done.
            the failure is either from a mistake the re-build shop made or from you trying to adjust the TV pressure, or both.

            it is important to torque the valve body and filter correctly, but since the damage is already done, servicing the transmission after the fact will very likely NOT fix the problem.
            2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
            89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
            88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


            I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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              #36
              Eric, so how would you suggest the VB bolts are torqued down? The center to outside pattern is given, but stick with the 80-100 in-lb, or do the increments thing, or what? Also the filter bolt, 70 or 50 there?

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                #37
                Hm, you know this wierd neutraling 4-3 downshift crap in the Mark VII didn't start happening until I serviced the trans. I just used a nutdriver to spin the filter bolts on. I wonder if I over-tightened it and caused the problem.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                  #38
                  I suppose the point is to have some sort of pattern so you dont miss a bolt and leave it loose.

                  I have used several different ways of torquing down the valve body, both seem to work.
                  Personally, since I have a lentech valve body in my car, I used his instructions for warranty purposes.

                  Most other valve bodies I use the 80 inch pounds from the center out.
                  I also use 70 inch pounds for the filter, which is usually what the instructions say that comes with a replacement filter kit you get at the parts store.
                  2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                  89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                  88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                  I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by jonzo77 View Post
                    i hope you didn't start tearing it apart yet!!!?! I work in a transmission shop, and the reason you'd be slipping in 3rd and 4th is that some retard didn't put the filter in at the CORRECT torque spec. that is THE ONLY reason that happens in those trannies!!
                    Just to clarify, that is not the "only" reason it would be slipping in 3-4. Over torquing anything on the valve body can obviously lead to any number of problems, but that is not the only reason anything would fail. If a servo seal is cut, if a piece of metal were to scratch the mating surface of the VB and TB, if the TV were out of adjustment, if it hadn't been filled properly, any of these could have been a factor in causing that failure. But that is the case with almost any automatic trans in the world.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Blaze86Vic View Post
                      Just to clarify, that is not the "only" reason it would be slipping in 3-4. Over torquing anything on the valve body can obviously lead to any number of problems, but that is not the only reason anything would fail. If a servo seal is cut, if a piece of metal were to scratch the mating surface of the VB and TB, if the TV were out of adjustment, if it hadn't been filled properly, any of these could have been a factor in causing that failure. But that is the case with almost any automatic trans in the world.
                      [sarcasim] but, but ... he WORKS at the transmission shop ! [/sarcasim]
                      2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                      89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                      88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                      I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by John Deere Green View Post
                        I find this a bit hard to believe, as the whole valve body is very rigid. Maybe it makes some difference when reusing old separator plate gaskets, but with new ones there should be no issues. I certainly didn't use any torque wrench when putting my valve body back together, and it seems to work just fine.
                        Yeah, I don't see what the big deal is, either, as I used to use a 3/4 truck impact gun to tighten up my valve body bolts....

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                          #42
                          Lol, speaking of which, I need to get me one of them, sure would come handy fighting bolts on those rusty POSs half of these cars turn into after 20 years in the salt belt. And just for shit an giggles after Eric mentioned the torques I did an experiment, seeing how good of a feel I have with a small 1/4"-drive ratchet, 85-95 in-lbs on all ten bolts I tried, which could explain why my VB worked fine. Now if I can only find my small torque wrench again... Seems like I'll have to steal Scott's for the other Scott's VB work.

                          Offtopic, do you know E4OD transmissions?

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                            #43
                            the origional AOD in my merc went 240k or more and never had the fluid or filter changed till i had the fill tube come out while changing the motor. and yea if i knew the filter wasnt changed i wouldve done it. i put my filter on the replacement tranny with a 3/8 socket wrench back in august and its been fine. and yea the guy that works at the tranny shop i do trust (i trust the owner not him) just sets the the cable to where itd sit with the throttle closed. just to get it to shift right i had to adjust it pretty far past that so i know hes wrong.

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