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leaking oil from valve covers?

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    leaking oil from valve covers?

    Just switched to a semi-synthetic, hoping to be better for the engine.
    Though it might already have been leaking.

    ...just tighten up some bolts as a solution? Or is there more to it than that?


    thanks!
    -Bernard

    #2
    new gasket time
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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      #3
      yep, replace the gaskets. or tighten them if you want it to really piss oil. Crunch those hard cork gaskets down and the oil just pours out.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        while you are at it replace all the vacuum lines under the upper intake and replace the pcv valve and screen.
        My wife and I.sigpic

        Comment


          #5
          check out this thread
          My wife and I.sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            do you mind attaching the link for the thread, HatNinja?
            OH-- and in the "everything I learned about..." thread you started, you included two other links to threads that were incomplete (the ... in the middle of the link, continued with the url: so the link didn't work).
            I'm interested in the tv bushing thread you'd highlighted, could you post the full, working link?

            thanks!
            -Bernard

            Comment


              #7
              oh sorry bout that here you go its pretty detailed i posted it the day after i did it so it was fresh in my mind

              My wife and I.sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                wow i just checked those 2 out and you are right try doing a search on tv grommet, and a.i.r. removal you should be able to find them.
                My wife and I.sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  cool! Got some help, and did it all yesterday! I was a bit intimidated to touch anything on the motor, just yet, but it worked out fine! No more oil leak, and man, was the poor pcv valve in need of changing (and the filter).

                  Only issue was when I overtightened and snapped off one of the bolts going through the valve cover, but we got it out.. Scary.

                  My friend also showed me where that throttle valve bushing is located, that everyone's been talking about. Still a mechanics newbie: just had no clue what/where it was. Does the ford dealership generally carry the brass one? Is there any sensitive adjusting to be done, or can I just swap it out?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Oh btw-- after replacing the pcv valve, filter (both of which may have been original for all I know...), and the gaskets: the motor seems to give me more power, but also run a little louder. Perfectly normal? We're not talking worrisomely loud here, just, when one's attuned to one's car: a decibel or so louder than it ran before I changed the pcv valve and gaskets.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      probably a good thing. The pcv system does move air through the motor, so that might be what you're hearing. You'll also get a slightly better piston ring seal with the crankcase under zero or slightly negative pressure.


                      Ford dealership will possibly tell you the brass one doest exist, is obsolete, or the part number is invalid. I dont know why but they don't seem to have any clue what people are on about when it gets asked for. Its just a simple direct swap procedure when you get one though. No adjustments required as long as you don't meddle with that adjuster block.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        look up ford aod overhaul on youtube, there's a few videos of guys adjusting and showing the correct procedure for setting TV pressure
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                        Comment

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