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HELP - crank, no run. purple wire?

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    HELP - crank, no run. purple wire?

    had the use of a garage for a few hours today so I finally replaced my leaky valve cover gaskets. Got it all buttoned back up and now the fucking thing wont start - It cranks and cranks and sounds like it wants to but won't stay running. Throttle position when cranking makes no change. Fuel pump primes, car cranks but doesn't fire.


    I changed:

    PCV trifecta
    valve cover gaskets



    I took off all of the plug wires because they were in my way, but they're all back on in the correct order. 15426378....at least that's from memory. Went through the firing order countless (pun intended..i'm tired) times and it's wired correctly. I was going by whatever was on the fan shroud. To be sure, Ford V8s are numbered 1234 on the p/s bank and 5678 on the d/s bank, yes? a chev cris-crosses if memory serves. I didn't have my books with me when I was working on it so I tried it with a chev firing order just in case, and obviously it did not work...made a nice backfire too.


    I obviously had to disconnect all of the manifold vacuum lines but they're all back on where they should be...the vac T, FPR, and MAP sensor all have a source of vacuum.


    Plugs/cap/rotor are new as of earlier this week. Ran fine with them for a few days up until this.


    The plot thickens: There's a lone purple wire coming from the firewall area that used to run to the area of the ignition coil bracket in front of the motor - I must have nicked it when I was putting things back together because the purple wire is now not attached to anything at the end - Looks as though it belongs in a wiring harness, but it is all by its lonesome. Didn't have the time to trace it back to the source but there's no lone purple wire indicated anywhere in my EVTM that has anything to do with starting/running. My car has an aftermarket remote starter wired in and I always dismissed that lone (non-stock looking) wire as part of the remote system.



    readers digest version: My car worked this morning until I replaced valve cover gaskets and PCV system. I had to unplug all of the sensors and actuators needed to do access the valve covers, and as far as I know, everything is back where it should be. Where would you look first? I tried providing as much info as I could but if you need more ask away.


    I will be reunited with my car in the morning and will continue troubleshooting at that time. thanks all!
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    also have not tried starting it on spray to determine if it's a fuel delivery problem - is starter fluid needed or can you use anything that will burn? carb cleaner et al

    will yank a spark plug and ground it while someone cranks it to see if i have spark. that's all i can figure to see if i'm getting fuel/spark. i don't have a fuel pressure gauge but priming the pump 3 times didn't make a difference.

    my coil hasn't been replaced in fuck knows how long but it hasn't been giving any trouble.

    the open distributor/rotor was exposed for some time while i was working but aside from nearly leaning on it until i realized what i was doing, i dont think i really touched it. i could be mistaken however because i always question myself like this could anything inside the dizzy be damaged in a way to cause the no start condition i described?
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    Comment


      #3
      I don't think anything (else) is likely to have changed randomly since doing the valve covers... as you mentioned, and as I remember too when I did my valve cover gaskets, there's a fine nest of wires and vacuum lines. Pull the upper intake off again and see if you missed something? Find a local friend with a crown vic and use his for reference material to make sure everything's in the right place?

      Comment


        #4
        Did you pinch the IAC wiring under the valve cover? How about any of the other wiring? If some of that stuff shorts to ground, you'll have no injector pulse or various other maladies.

        Do you have a tach or other gauges in the car? I can't think of any wires that come from the firewall area that aren't in a loom from the factory.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          on the way to my car now. will check wiring first and foremost....the IAC wiring being pinched sounds suspiciously easy. thanks guys.
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            Did you pinch the IAC wiring under the valve cover? How about any of the other wiring? If some of that stuff shorts to ground, you'll have no injector pulse or various other maladies.

            Do you have a tach or other gauges in the car? I can't think of any wires that come from the firewall area that aren't in a loom from the factory.
            I have a tach but the wire is routed separate from this purple guy. Best I can do is hit it with a multimeter when I'm cranking it and see if it gets power...won't help anything but at least I'll know
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              actually, I don't technically need the car until late tomorrow. I'm gonna let the thing sit until tomorrow morning and enjoy the day of NOT banging my head off of the car.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                since I'll prettymuch have another full day to use the garage, I believe I will pull the intake again and make sure everything is all hunky-dorey. I'll put new vac lines on again just because I can.
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #9
                  Did you take the wires off the cap or leave them on? I goofed one time and had them in order but one-off on the cap, lol
                  Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                  'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                  sigpic
                  85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                  Comment


                    #10
                    if the distributor was removed and re-dropped incorrectly, that will also cause you problems.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 85crownHPP View Post
                      Did you take the wires off the cap or leave them on? I goofed one time and had them in order but one-off on the cap, lol


                      They stayed on the cap but the cap was removed and the wires were removed from the plugs. It was like a blue Ford Racing octopus. The AFAIK dizzy gear is meshed with the cam right where it's been for the past two years. I put the wires back where I recalled them being, but it didn't run, so I unplugged 'em all and wired them all from scratch to make sure it was correct and the order is now 15426378


                      The embossed #1 on the cap is pointing at the wrong cylinder bank, though. Wouldn't matter, would it? Since clockwise is clockwise no matter what...As long as the firing order of the wires on the cap is correct and I've got them going to the right cylinders. At least that is my understanding.

                      Maybe I am off on the cap and it's screwing things up?
                      Last edited by 1990LTD; 03-13-2011, 07:18 PM.
                      sigpic


                      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post

                        I took off all of the plug wires because they were in my way, but they're all back on in the correct order. 15426378....at least that's from memory. Went through the firing order countless (pun intended..i'm tired) times and it's wired correctly. I was going by whatever was on the fan shroud. To be sure, Ford V8s are numbered 1234 on the p/s bank and 5678 on the d/s bank, yes? a chev cris-crosses if memory serves. I didn't have my books with me when I was working on it so I tried it with a chev firing order just in case, and obviously it did not work...made a nice backfire too.
                        Which way are you running the wires. From the cap starting at (1) you go counterclockwise with the wiring, then 5, 4, 2, 6, 3, 7, and then 8 ending up on the right side of (1). I've personally run the firing order backwards and have had the almost wants to start bullshit too.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          also I may have the firing order wrong in my post but it's correct on the car.
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                            Which way are you running the wires. From the cap starting at (1) you go counterclockwise with the wiring, then 5, 4, 2, 6, 3, 7, and then 8 ending up on the right side of (1). I've personally run the firing order backwards and have had the almost wants to start bullshit too.

                            Counterclockwise, is it? well, we have a winner, I think. 8 ends up on the left side of 1
                            sigpic


                            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yep, rotor rotates counterclockwise.

                              Comment

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