Insane Idea - 460 CID (Now 351w options)

[Mike_Windsor]

So for camshafts I found this page courtesy of that dude:

http://m.summitracing.com/search/department/engines-components/section/camshafts-valvetrain/part-type/camshafts/make/mercury/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor

The question is: Which one do you experts recommend?

[phayzer5]

This guy recommends that cam

If you want to bother with rebuilding a set of heads with aftermarket valvetrain, you can pick something with more lift off the bat. These cars are heavy, so unless you have the intake, exhaust and headwork to support the RPMs, a truck/RV/towing cam will be your best bet.

I used this same cam when I did the 4barrel carb conversion way-back-when on my CFI '84 lincoln. Rebuilt e7 (slightly ported) heads, RPM intake, 600cfm Edelbrock pushed that fat car to 16.29 with the slushbox original transmission.

[Mr.Blue]

Pretty sure it wasnt meant as a big insult lol...............when you start talking about engine swaps and major performance mods "most" people (myself included) assume you've heard of the two most popular mail order joints.........summit and
http://www.jegs.com/ all part of being new and learning............BTW my first "performance" part that i mail ordered was a hat and license plate from summit wwwaayy back in 1987 lol..............

[Mike_Windsor]

Oh I know, I'm fully expecting people to facepalm me as I ask these sort of questions...

I am thinking of purchasing these parts and then getting someone to throw them in for me.

[Mike_Windsor]

Forgive me, but by "headwork" do you mean cylinder heads?

[phayzer5]

Headwork = porting to the intake/exhaust runners, or at the least a valve job and upgraded springs for a cam with .500+ lift (or sub .500 with 1.72 roller rockers).

Heads, cam, and intake is going to be a "top-end" rebuild/upgrade. It could be done under a shade tree with a semi-competent mechanic (or 2) over the weekend... including plenty of time to shoot the shit

[Mike_Windsor]

No need to yank the engine? Cool!

I think I might start getting the parts. We'll start with that there camshaft...

[turbo2256b]

yOU NEED TO SART WITH a total plan first cam is usally the last thing I pick. What heads , intake , headers, etc if its all to work togeather properly. Head work ,air flow is the most improtant. For good flat torq curve heads have to be sized for the engine and desired air flow. Small heads and big cam kills low end. Big heads small engine same result. A 302 is realy best off with ported GT40s most aluminum heads are too much for a 302 to have a good torq curve.

[Mike_Windsor]

My engine isn't a 302; it's a 351.

[phayzer5]

Same thing... Only difference is a half inch of deck height and a wider intake to match

[Bobcat]

So uh to answer some more questions. Your hood should fit, DO NOT get a high rise intake. I used a Weiand stealth and with a drop filter, I have just about 1" of clearance with not bracing cut.

Honestly. If you're nooby about this don't jump into such a huge project with not much knowhow. If you were closed, I'd be happy to help.

Exhaust -
351w swap mustang headers
factory Foxbody mustang short tubes
Mustang H-Pipe will work. My BBK fits good.

Engine -
Just pick up some good condition GT40s from a junkyard and throw some better valve springs on them and run em.
Cam. Don't go fucking around, educate yourself properly. Otherwise you'll destroy it, the first time you start the car. Make sure your pushrod length is correct, make sure your cam bearings are good, MAKE SURE to use cam lube. Honestly, convert the engine to a roller cam before you fuck around (IIRC it's a 130$ kit). It'll take some risk out of it.

Carb -
Don't be a dreamer and go for big CFM, it'll only fuck you. Right in the ass. Too much CFM or too little will be one of the big factors of it being fast or a slug.

Transmission - Rear end.
Get 3.55s or 3.73s and get a Transgo HP shiftkit or a silverfox valve body for it. You'll notice amazing differences and you'll feel faster.


Overview/ what I would do in your position -
Put an Edlebroke or Weiand intake on it and use a Demon, Holley or Edlebrock carb. Put 3.55s in the gear and do a stage 1/2 SilverFox valvebody. Once you've learned a bit from that, then you can do major changes. Like converting it to factory EFI (aftermarket would be easy as balls.) and doing a cam/heads. Since you'll need to take apart the top end of your engine and that will overwhelm you. Just do a little bit now and more later. Do it yourself and not throw it on someone else to. Otherwise you're just one of those checkbook guys. The learning and doing it yourself is the fun part because then you're all like "Look at this faggot kid in his S2k. I know I'll lose. But atleast I built my car!" Plus. If you change too much at once, you'll fuck up some factors and you'll be sore from butt hurt.

Hope this helped!

[phayzer5]

FWIW - I have a 351w block with a Vic Jr. intake, Holley HP 750-based carb, and 14x3 air cleaner under a stock 86 Lincoln hood with no trimming

[Mike_Windsor]

I appreciate the input.

I'll investigate converting the engine to roller cam; does that mean that the camshaft that phayzer5 linked me to is no good?

[88Vic]

There are specific roller cams, different from flat tappet style cams, this video kinda explains it (btw, look at more of this video series, will give you lots of broad answers to basic questions): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV9eLZrRbgA

[phayzer5]

There are pros and cons to using the retrofit kits on a non-roller block. From what I gather of you mechanical abilities, I would save the money and/or trouble and stick with stock parts; you wont know what your missing out on anyways. Put the savings towards roller rockers or the carb. Aside from the break-in, flat-tappet isn't much different than rollers. For all the $$$ I sunk into the stroker 408w in my lincoln, it's still a flat-tappet cam in a '84 vintage block.

Keep It Simple...