H.O. Upper stuff swap on LoPo - Does this produce noticable gains?

[sly]

that link goes to the search list, not the auction.

[DerekTheGreat]

Gah, sorry. Try this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-90-1993...7d8cf1&vxp=mtr

There's no HO plenum plaque on it but the guy does have a photo of the casting number.. Shipping price is absurd but depending on what happens with the auction I might be able to get the thing for under $100. Not like I need the lower manifold but no one is selling just the upper...

[sly]

It has the E7 part number on the upper. I'm inclined to say yes. The lower is the same lopo or HO.

[DerekTheGreat]

Sweet, thanks sly. I'll be sure to have Ashley watch the manifold as she's the household Ebay expert haha.

[sly]

I'm inclined... I'm not dead certain.

[VicCrownVic]

E7 just tells you it's an 87 part, the ZE (in some way, I don't remember the specifics, something to do with car line/body type) will tell you if it is for a mustang. If it was an upper from a passenger car such as an 87 panther I believe the part number would start with something like E7AB or E7AF (I think).

Here's one from an 88 (Mustang) with some port work done on it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-1993-MU...f75ee4&vxp=mtr

[sly]

yeah... the HO on the top is the give away that it's the intake Derek is looking for. The pics for the one he posted are so washed out on that location that you can't really tell.

and E7 means the designation year (the model year when it was added to the parts catalog), not the production year. My 88 has E0 parts on it even though they were made in 87 for the 88 model year.

[gadget73]

shame there is so much glare on the first pic. The ones you want have H.O. cast right into the top of the manifold under where the plate goes.

E7ZE should be correct for the casting number. Thats 1987 Mustang Engine. Z is the code for Mustangs, E is for engine bits.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/partnumbers_overview.htm

[VicCrownVic]

shame there is so much glare on the first pic. The ones you want have H.O. cast right into the top of the manifold under where the plate goes.

E7ZE should be correct for the casting number. Thats 1987 Mustang Engine. Z is the code for Mustangs, E is for engine bits.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/pa...s_overview.htm

That's a handy link, so even without seeing the H.O. stamp on the top the part number is enough to determine that it is the part he is looking for.

yeah... the HO on the top is the give away that it's the intake Derek is looking for. The pics for the one he posted are so washed out on that location that you can't really tell.

and E7 means the designation year (the model year when it was added to the parts catalog), not the production year. My 88 has E0 parts on it even though they were made in 87 for the 88 model year.

I'm sure my 91 MGM could have some D9 parts, I know it has plenty of E9 parts.
Oddly I have seen a 97 model year F150 for sale on the side of the road near my parents place that had a lot of F8 parts. The model year character in the VIN was V for 97 and at first I thought maybe the part I saw (air cleaner) was a replacement but I found plenty of other F8 parts and figured it was unlikely so many parts on different areas of the truck have been replaced. The build date of 6/1997 would make it a late build 97 model year truck since June is normally (perhaps not always) when model year changeover occurs. I guess that explains why it had F8 parts since those parts were added to the catalog during the 98 model year before that 97 model year truck was technically built during the 98 model year.

Good info mangs, I'll step out now and try to let this thread get back on topic from the many rabbit trails.

[knucklehead0202]

Oh, speaking of Chevy that GMC we bought is a turd. So many nickel & dimers killing our groove and nothing is really working out the way we thought it would. Couldn't get around to looking at either TC's air ride this weekend because of the damn needy GMC:
-New wiper motor installed (damn thing still wont properly respond to switch settings so maybe that's the issue)
-New VSS installed (Speedometer still doesn't work)
-New washer bottle & washer motor installed for the third time (Washer now works, yay!!!!)
-Throttle body rebuilt & previous owner's dumb vacuum hose work corrected (runs much better but still surgy when cold)
-Aftermarket radio installed (we've got tunes)
-Oil changy done
-Grease fittings for front end lubed up
-License plate lights fixed
-Clutch master cylinder cleaned out & refilled with fluid
-New fuel pump

That old Ford we're selling never gave us headaches at all. Starting to regret purchasing the damn thing. What a waste of money it's been and putting us further n further from a house and to top it off, now Ash has problems with her A/C on her Townie.

Told ya! Every GM product I've ever owned or operated has been a shitbox, and they're ugly.

[knucklehead0202]

Far as that HO manifold goes, I sure to shit wouldn't pay 100 bucks for it, when on that first list in the search, there was a Typhoon intake upper and lower for 184. I picked one up off craigslist for 140. It's a knockoff of an edelbrock RPM, which will flow better than ANY factory ford manifold ever, so for the cost, it's a no-brainer. Granted, it's on the edge of too much for these motors, but if you add a few other things, it'll be well worth it, or a good foundation for future stuff. It would likely not hurt performance on a stock motor, and can only help as mods add up.

I got some shit about buying the cheap ebay headers too. Guess what, they've been on a month with no problem, and I haven't even re-tightened the cheapy header bolts that they came with. These are 1-5/8 stainless ceramic-coated headers that came with gaskets and hardware for under 100 bucks. Why do anything else? I'd be lying if I said I noticed ANY increase in power, but the noise itself is beautiful. With top-end improvements, I believe this would produce a marked improvement. I have a lightning tb and egr spacer on the way, so I'm very close to having a mostly complete top-end package. With the intake tract pretty well sorted, I'm toying with the idea of doing heads, or maybe just 1.7 roller rockers. Both would be better! Unless you got a killer deal on a gt40 manifold or something, I'd look to the aftermarket if I were bolting on parts.

[DerekTheGreat]

You keep talking about your Typhoon intakes!!! lol. I don't think that upper is going to bolt to my lower so just going to stick with stock stuff. I think John said it was worth 10HP at the wheels so that's a big improvement when Ford only gave us 150 to start with. Turd should be up to 170 now with the duals and the upper package. Interesting about the headers, that upgrade I may hold off on then. Still gotta get winter tires put on the steelies I bought and have a posi unit swapped in my car (No one has a K code rear end and I'm too incompetent to rip one out of a yard car)

No worries about getting off topic, Vic! Thanks for the link too!

Also, thanks for all of the information dudes! Both manifolds are HO and now I know what to look for in regard to casting numbers.. With that said, should I bother with the ported intake? Does that really matter? Depending how the first auction goes I could get that one cheaper. Got a message from Jaywish as he has one he's willing to sell so once he gets back with me about pricing I'll have a better idea...

[DerekTheGreat]

Told ya! Every GM product I've ever owned or operated has been a shitbox, and they're ugly.

My Firebird has been ultra reliable and so was that little shitbox Grand Am I had, I miss that little car. This GM is a decent looking truck, perhaps Ash will see this post and upload a pic of it. I don't care for the interior too much other than the seat is really comfy, it's an SLE so it would be the equivalent of a XLT or XLT Lariat. I went againt my rules when it comes to buying used cars. I don't have many but I'll never make the mistake again, 1) Don't buy a car that has been sitting. 2) Don't buy a car from a mechanic. With this truck I broke both. Could tell he did some stuff to try and make it run but who the hell did I think I was when I thought I could make it run better? You guys know me, this intake manifold swap will be the most indepth thing I've done in over ten years.. Don't think anyone would believe me if I told them I hand bent & flared the brake lines and put the motor in my Fury haha. Anyway, I got the GMC to run better, much better actually, it only has this surge when cold and coming off of idle so I need to check the TPS I guess and double check the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. Big block with 4.10 gears & manual shift is tons of fun. I've never seen an affordable one ton truck that wasn't a dually, extended cab, quad cab or some combo of all three. With the new mirrors on it it looks like a long box half ton. Stupid impulse buys...

[pantera77]

I'd be interested to see how a typhoon will work on a lopo. A few people have tried running explorer intakes on a lopo, and they all ended up running like crap. I think it's just to much intake for a wheezy lopo.

[HiFiMerc]

I'm sure my 91 MGM could have some D9 parts, I know it has plenty of E9 parts.

It does. I know the little covers on the ends of the door pulls are D9. The bezels for the ashtrays and window switches I think might be D9. If you were to have cornering lamps, those are '79 parts too.