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--Quick Question-- About Wagon Springs

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    #31
    I have no clue... There isn't anything obvious that is any heavier.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #32
      Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
      I'd not heard about Lincolns having an extra brace on the front of the chassis. Where is it exactly?
      Just forward of the rad support, there's a brace running between the frame horns where the bumper attaches. Same in the back actually.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #33
        Originally posted by saiyaneye View Post
        How much heavier is the station wagon up front? Is it much heavier?
        Not sure if there's actually any more weight on the front axle, but the wagon body is obviously somewhat heavier overall, and so perhaps the main reason for the difference is to increase anti-dive properties somewhat while still keeping the ride super-soft. Funny, then, that I've not heard of using rear shocks with greater rebound resistance, as that could help keep the heavier wagon rear down under braking and improve overall balance even further.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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          #34
          Makes me wonder what height wagon fronts will put me at.

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            #35
            Dude, just pick the springs you want, and once they're broken in, if they're too high, trim 'em!
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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              #36
              Okay one last question :-p
              If I am to trim them, what would be the best method, take them out and use hacksaw?

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                #37
                hehe, don't mind me, I've been irritable lately. :p A hacksaw with a good blade in it can work just fine. I used a Sawzall, and some actually recommend a cutting torch because it cuts really quickly and makes it easy to re-form (flatten) the end coil just a tad by heating it, then flipping the spring over and leaning on it. Seriously, how you do the whole thing is your business!
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                  #38
                  DO NOT USE A TORCH! That changes the springs tempering and will cause it to fail. A cutting wheel, sawzall, hacksaw, jigsaw.... And keep them as cool as possible..
                  Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                  Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by mrltd View Post
                    DO NOT USE A TORCH! That changes the springs tempering and will cause it to fail. A cutting wheel, sawzall, hacksaw, jigsaw.... And keep them as cool as possible..
                    And that's the other point of view I hear, and one I definitely understand. For me it was a moot point because I didn't have a torch, though I actually used the Sawzall in hopes of keeping the heat lower than I might have with the cutoff wheel. Looking back, if I'd known decent hacksaw blades could be had as easily as I've discovered they are, I might have done that instead because the Sawzall can still get things pretty warm once the blade starts thinking about going south but I keep using it because it'll still cut.
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                      #40
                      Well, I doubt your sawzall is getting the spring red hot, so it's not gonna effect the spring like a torch
                      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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