Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Change upper and lower control arms?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Change upper and lower control arms?

    Hi everybody!

    I think my upper and lower ball joints need to be replaced. The problem is: I have a 1989 Ford Crown Vic and every repair manual I checked says: "ball joints cannot be serviced, control arms need to be replaced". But I just canīt find any replacement control arms. Are these parts still built? If not, is it save to unbolt the original ball joints, and to replace them with screwed ones?
    Thanks for Your help!

    #2
    ball joints are pressed in.... not screwed. at least the lowers are... I can't remmeber the uppers.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

    Comment


      #3
      uppers be riveted.
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
      sigpic
      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

      Comment


        #4
        The upper (front) ball joints are bolted in, the lower ones I donīt know, but if they arenīt, they would be even more difficult to change without replacing the lower control arm.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by mfmagicmike View Post
          The upper (front) ball joints are bolted in, the lower ones I donīt know, but if they arenīt, they would be even more difficult to change without replacing the lower control arm.
          Actually they are easy. Press out, press in. Much quicker than getting the rivets out of the uppers.
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

          Comment


            #6
            the lower ball joints press in
            the upper ball joints are held from the factory with four rivets....you need to grind or chisel the rivets out and bolt the new upper ball joint in.......i'd suggest while you are replacing the ball joints, replace the bushings also.....especially the upper arm bushings.......the energy suspension non police set for the 92-97 vics works on the boxes also........also a good time to think about a big brake swap since your car needs four ball joints

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

            Comment


              #7
              The manuals do say tht the upper is replaced as an assembly with the arm, but it doesn't seem that anyonre sells the arm. Aftermarket replacement upper ball joints are sold with bolts to hold them in. originally it has rivets that you'll need to grind off or use the air chisel on. Its a pain in the ass doing it the first time. Wear earplugs if you're using an air chisel.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
                the lower ball joints press in
                the upper ball joints are held from the factory with four rivets....you need to grind or chisel the rivets out and bolt the new upper ball joint in.......i'd suggest while you are replacing the ball joints, replace the bushings also.....especially the upper arm bushings.......the energy suspension non police set for the 92-97 vics works on the boxes also........also a good time to think about a big brake swap since your car needs four ball joints

                And by brake swap You think of new:
                brake pads, or
                brake pads + rotors, or
                brake pads + rotors + calipers, or
                brake pads + rotors + calipers + hydraulic hoses ?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  The manuals do say tht the upper is replaced as an assembly with the arm, but it doesn't seem that anyonre sells the arm. Aftermarket replacement upper ball joints are sold with bolts to hold them in. originally it has rivets that you'll need to grind off or use the air chisel on. Its a pain in the ass doing it the first time. Wear earplugs if you're using an air chisel.
                  So it can be done that way without risking the bolts to brake down on the Autobahn?

                  Just one question: why is it a pain in the A.. only the first time, I would think it to be a pain in the .ss every time (yet it has to be done)?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
                    the lower ball joints press in
                    the upper ball joints are held from the factory with four rivets....you need to grind or chisel the rivets out and bolt the new upper ball joint in.......i'd suggest while you are replacing the ball joints, replace the bushings also.....especially the upper arm bushings.......the energy suspension non police set for the 92-97 vics works on the boxes also........also a good time to think about a big brake swap since your car needs four ball joints
                    OHHHH YES, these are soooo good to go too (to bushing heaven).

                    Comment


                      #11
                      To replace both ball joints, do I need to compress or take out the coil spring?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by mfmagicmike View Post
                        To replace both ball joints, do I need to compress or take out the coil spring?
                        Yes. If you don't, the spring will expand (rapidly) causing damage to you or the vehicle. Different people prefer different methods for unloading the suspension; some are safer than others. Now would be a good time to upgrade your springs too, btw.

                        The reason its more of a PITA the first time is because you have to deal with the rivets. If it isn;t the first time, all you have to do is loosen the bolts, and remove the ball joint.
                        **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                        **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                        **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                        **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                        Comment


                          #13
                          you do not need a spring compressor to remove a front spring.......jack under the arm and slowly release pressure on the jack
                          there are some big brake swap stickies.......will leave you with this quickly
                          98-02 panther: spindles, hub bearings, lower ball joints, calipers, caliper brackets and brake hoses
                          92-94 upper control arms and ball joints
                          goot luck!

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            So the ball-joint job will end up being a huge front suspension overhaul.

                            What else!

                            I have a lot of respect for the coil springs, I donīt want to get hurt by one of these guys. But off course it is logical to take them out before touching the ball-joints.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              if you are not replacing the bushings and just the ball joints you do not need to disturb the coil springs
                              rule #1 put a jack securely under the lower control arm.....this will keep the arm loaded and then you can remove the spindle to change the ball joints
                              replacing the springs requires an internal spring compressor unless you use the speedway motors springs like i used on gmgt's vic and mrltd's wagon

                              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X