Change upper and lower control arms?

[DuceAnAHalf]

if you leave the shock in place the spring wont come out.

and if you bolt the upper ball joint in with good bolts and all metal lock nuts you wont have to worry about them coming out

[gadget73]

So it can be done that way without risking the bolts to brake down on the Autobahn?

Just one question: why is it a pain in the A.. only the first time, I would think it to be a pain in the .ss every time (yet it has to be done)?

The bolts are fine. The reason its only a pain the first time is because you have to chisel the rivets out. If you replace them later, its just a nut and bolt, which is far easier to remove than cutting 4 big rivets.

[mfmagicmike]

The bolts are fine. The reason its only a pain the first time is because you have to chisel the rivets out. If you replace them later, its just a nut and bolt, which is far easier to remove than cutting 4 big rivets.

Very smart, I didnīt think of it in that perspective.

As a matter of fact, I thought these parts werenīt to be changed more than once in a livetime of the car.

[gadget73]

upper ball joints are normally good well over 100k miles, so you're probably not that likely to have to replace them again, but just in case you do....

Lowers are usually around 100k as well. Aftermarket ones are greasable so they will probably actually last longer than the originals, provided they are greased when the oil is changed

[mfmagicmike]

On my ball joints, the grease leaks back out through the grease fittings.

As my car has +37000 miles, I think itīs about time to change them (the tie rods as well).

[gadget73]

Is that three hundred seventy thousand plus, or thirty seven thousand plus?

Original lower ball joints had no grease fittings, so if yours have them, the joints have been replaced. If they're not loose, you might just need to replace the grease fitting on them.

[mfmagicmike]

Is that three hundred seventy thousand plus, or thirty seven thousand plus?

Original lower ball joints had no grease fittings, so if yours have them, the joints have been replaced. If they're not loose, you might just need to replace the grease fitting on them.

I really don't know for sure, it could be 37 000, 137000, 237000, 337000...
As I live in Europe, I don't have access to the vehicle history report, which might indicate more about the exact mileage.
As a matter of fact, the upper and lower ball-joints have grease fittings. As far as I can remember the upper ones looked riveted. But after what You wrote I really have to check again.

This feels like car archeology!

Once again, a proof of the unequaled level of expertise this site and it's members have on Crown Vics.

My respect!

[mfmagicmike]

The idea of servicing the ball joints came to me after the car started to pull left when braking. I repacked the bearings and rotor with grease (was about time), which resolved 70% of the problem.
There is no catastrophic vertical movement in the wheel, the classical sign of ball-joint wear. But there was some movement inside-out : I adjusted the tie-rod ends: 90% of the problem solved.
But there are these remaining 10%...
And it is that the whole thing (upper & lower control arm, caliper, rotor) looks pretty worn : rusted calipers, grease leaking from the ball joints grease caps, grease leaking from the tie-rod ends, tired looking control arm bushings...
This wild hold a couple of thousands of miles more, but will have to be done sooner or later.

[mrltd]

That could be a bad hose, bad caliper or slides....doing the pull. Or the bearings are toast.

[85crownHPP]

...looks pretty worn : rusted calipers, grease leaking from the ball joints grease caps, grease leaking from the tie-rod ends, tired looking control arm bushings...

how rusted? new calipers will rust over in a few months if they arent coated with something... and just cuz things are greasy doesnt mean they are bad... Id be more worried if they looked dry.
Are you supporting the lower control arm while you check for play?
Id fix the brakes 1st...

[gadget73]

Pulling is more often brake problems as mentioned. Might be time for new calipers and hoses. Both calipers failed on my car around 125,000 miles. The previous owner drove it so long with a bad passenger side caliper it ate through the rotor. I replace it and 2 days later the driver's side one failed.

[mfmagicmike]

Pulling is more often brake problems as mentioned. Might be time for new calipers and hoses. Both calipers failed on my car around 125,000 miles. The previous owner drove it so long with a bad passenger side caliper it ate through the rotor. I replace it and 2 days later the driver's side one failed.

You might be right.
My brake pads are still OK, but the rotors are pretty worn down (1 mm from minimal thickness), and have a reddish colour from overheating (I know, I shouldn't have taken my box to the mountains).
The calipers and hydraulic hoses aren't new off course, but seem to work for now.
Bearings seemed to be OK when I repacked them with grease.

The most visibly damaged brake parts are the rotors, so they will have to go.
Number 1 priority. Maybe that'll solve the problem.
Do You think it might be a good occasion to throw in new bearings too?

New grease fittings are on their way.

[mfmagicmike]

how rusted? new calipers will rust over in a few months if they arent coated with something... and just cuz things are greasy doesnt mean they are bad... Id be more worried if they looked dry.
Are you supporting the lower control arm while you check for play?
Id fix the brakes 1st...

No I didn't.
Should I ?

[85crownHPP]

yes, to properly check for ball joint play on our cars is to support the lower controll arm with a jack ('unloading' the ball joints), otherwise the spring will keep pressure on them. lift the tire up a couple inches and use a prybar to lift the wheel up and down as well as using your hands. Make sure the car is stable so you dont loose any fingers...!
If they are really worn out, you will see/feel lots of movement at the ball joints as the ball flops around in the socket.