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    BBS / FT suspension progress

    Ok, Here is an update on my BBS. Poly bushings, new ball joints, New wagon springs, Cleaned and painted used LCA's. Have a look. Any recomendations??
    Attached Files
    Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
    Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
    Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
    Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
    sigpic

    #2
    Looks like you got those parts under controll... do you have the rest of your parts already?
    Make sure you have some heavy duty tools - you'll need them!
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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      #3
      Im going back to the junk yard to pull The UCA's. Anything I should keep in mind?? Im buying noew Upper ball joints so I should need a pickle fork. I will get the spindles at a later date.
      Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
      Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
      Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
      Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        The springs are in upside-down, but I guess you know that. Flat side goes at the top, pigtail at the bottom. Theres also a rubber isolator that goes in there.

        uppers don't need a pickle fork. They use a pinch bolt through the upper arm. Remove the bolt, drive it out (take a punch with you) amd the upper ball joint will just about fall out. Just make sure there is something to limit the lower control arm, otherwise the spring can fly out at you.

        I'd also suggest making sure the threads on those shock mounting holes are good. THey tend to get tired after a while, there isn't all that much metal right there. If the threads are tired (or if they're not) you might want to consider welding a nut to the inside of the spring perch area so the shock bolts don't pull through. You can use whatever metric thread they use originally, or just drill the hole out a little and use a standard 5/16" bolt and nut. You can also use those clip nut things, or if you're really agile, a regular nut and a wrench through the spring after its installed.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          isolators did come with the poly kit. Do they go on top or on the bottom of the spring?? What is a pinch bolt??
          Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
          Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
          Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
          Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            isolators on top, between the spring and frame.


            its a bolt that passes through the upper control arm, it sits in a groove on the late style upper ball joint. I can't find pics of the thing, but if you're looking at the side of a late model spindle, you'll see a bolt that goes through right next to the ball joint. There is a nut on that. Remove the nut and bolt and the upper ball joint comes out. It doesn't have the big castle nut setup like the lower uses. If you can jack up the lower control arm so its not bottomed out, this will come out a lot easier. If you can't, stick things under the lower control arm so it won't move far and unbolt the upper control arm so the suspension drops. This will unload the retaining bolt and it'll come out much easier.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              Ok, got it. Thanks for your help.
              Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
              Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
              Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
              Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
              sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                Ok done, Used my cutting wheel and I took off half a coil from each spring. Will this make them stiffer??
                Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
                sigpic

                Comment

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