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Drum Brake Trouble shooting.

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    #16
    Just got to say you could convert to disk brakes. Many have done it with success.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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      #17
      Nowadays when I mess with rear brakes on old cars I change everything including cylinders and wheel bearings.

      Pete
      Originally posted by gadget73
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      2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
      1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
      1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Whosondephone View Post
        I purchased some brazing rod. It said that it was designed to bond to steel. Some apparently do not. I had trouble getting it hot enough. What resulted was a cold-braze that I ended up grinding down. I was using TS4000. Perhaps I'll consider getting a TS8000 down the road.

        I scrubbed out the master cylinder and replaced the black break fluid. I did also replace the cylinders and bled the lines.

        After about a week I noticed the brass wore out. However the break pads were wearing evenly.
        I'm still terrified to use the parking brake though.

        Thanks for the advice!

        what were you using for heat? An acetylene or even a MAPP gas torch should be hot enough to braze to sheet metal. the backing plate isn't all that thick in that area if I remember correctly. Shouldn't have any special trouble getting the brass to stick, but if you can't get the steel to a dull red glow its not going to flow in there properly. Wire brushing the rust away will also help it bond somewhat. I have an oxy-acetylene rig at work that I use sometimes for brazing. Its actually too hot for sheet metal most of the time. I need to get a smaller tip for it, the #1 will blow though sheet metal if you aren't careful.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #19
          I was using a new map pro tank with TS4000 touch with these rods: http://www.zoro.com/i/G1133194/ Sorry for not specifying earlier. I do not remember how I did it but I did clean the brazing surface. The mettle did get glowing hot.

          I could only get it to pool once.

          Any way breaks are working great. I'm still paranoid to apply the E-brake. Maybe this weekend I'll do it.
          Last edited by Whosondephone; 06-16-2014, 11:33 PM.

          Current ride: 2004 "The Distant future" Grand Marquis

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