Originally posted by gadget73
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poly vs. rubber control arm bushings
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85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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well, the Mark has air springs, so you really don't change those. You either ruin the car with a halfass coil conversion, make it a mushpot with the wrong air springs, or build yourself some GTC air spring base adapters to slip over the stock LSC spring base to increase front spring rate. I can't build things with wood to make the GTC adapter mold, so it shall retain the stock LSC springs.
I've had 3 different springs in the Towncar, the only ones that didn't sit stupid were the stock ones. It was either too high or too low, and after that I decided I was too stupid to figure that stuff out and went with standard replacements. It sits normal now.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Postwell, the Mark has air springs, so you really don't change those. You either ruin the car with a halfass coil conversion, make it a mushpot with the wrong air springs, or build yourself some GTC air spring base adapters to slip over the stock LSC spring base to increase front spring rate. I can't build things with wood to make the GTC adapter mold, so it shall retain the stock LSC springs.
I've had 3 different springs in the Towncar, the only ones that didn't sit stupid were the stock ones. It was either too high or too low, and after that I decided I was too stupid to figure that stuff out and went with standard replacements. It sits normal now.
As an aside, more on topic, I've given up on buying whole arms and am about to pull the trigger on the cheapest shit set of front bushings I can get, and poly bushings front and rear. That way I can put the poly bushings in new shells before tearing the car apart. I have boxed rear lower arms on a shelf, so I can prep those too.
This way all I have to do once the control arms are out is press the ball joints out and in, then out the old bushings however I want and ram the poly ones home. My service manager won't hate me so much for clogging up a bay if the day isn't spent screwing around with 30 year old bushing shells.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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Might be better installing the bushings with the rubber first then burn out the poly ones since the poly ones slip in annd out fairly easly. Could end up warping a bushing shell.
Doing uppers removal and install with rubber ones best have the proper tool to get around the shaft.
All teeth shouls be delt with there may be some on the upper arms inner step. Think I installed a washer to stop them from diging into the poly bushing.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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I'm not so worried about having new shells, just about not having to screw around with burning bushings while clogging up a lift at work. Is there really a risk of damaging a shell just from the burn-out and install without having it in the arm? I would think shape wouldn't be that critical because the poly bushing being put in would hold/fix the shape. But I've never seen them without bushing material in them.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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Originally posted by johnunit View PostAs an aside, more on topic, I've given up on buying whole arms and am about to pull the trigger on the cheapest shit set of front bushings I can get, and poly bushings front and rear. That way I can put the poly bushings in new shells before tearing the car apart. I have boxed rear lower arms on a shelf, so I can prep those too.The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.
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