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    #76
    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
    clearcoat it. Aluminum oxidizes fairly quickly.
    This. But do so after the U-joints and yoke and flange are installed, as that job will mar some of your freshly shined up parts. Degrease with acetone before spraying it too.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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      #77
      Originally posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
      This. But do so after the U-joints and yoke and flange are installed, as that job will mar some of your freshly shined up parts. Degrease with acetone before spraying it too.
      Do y'all think the clear coat will stick. What type do y'all recommend engine or caliper clear coat

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        #78
        IDK if it exists but look for some designed for aluminum.
        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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          #79
          don't know that the type matters. Its not going to get terribly hot.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #80
            I don't think any paint will stick to that very well but as long as it spins around in place like a nice driveshaft and doesn't touch anything you shouldn't see a problem.
            1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
            1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

            GMN Box Panther History
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              #81
              Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
              Well I like to think more is better, so I'd fill the whole thing but I think there'd be an issue with thermal expansion & it coming out of the vent hole... ...
              I didn't have a close enough look when I did mine, but I would guess the fill hole is at a level where the fluid will get into the axle tubes to reach the bearings without being high enough to coat the axles and get flung around. I know there's something about the proper level being a little below the fill hole, so technically, people who fill it until it starts coming back out are overfilling it a bit.

              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              clearcoat it. Aluminum oxidizes fairly quickly.
              When does balancing become an issue? AFAIK, regular rust-prone driveshafts aren't supposed to be oil sprayed due to a concern with the balance. Polishing and clearcoating aluminum would seem not to be significant (esp when regular driveshafts are okay despite lots of rust coming off of them), but better safe than sorry.

              2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
              mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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                #82
                I can't imagine you'd get enough weight out of clearcoat to throw the balance. If you did a half decent job it'll be fairly evenly distributed anyway.

                More oil is not better though. It needs enough room to expand without puking out of the vent on the axle. You can massively over-fill it and it'll just puke out until its where it needs to be, as long as the vent is good. Otherwise it'll blow the seals out and puke out way too much oil all over your brakes.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                  #83
                  Bare aluminum oxidizes immediately. That oxide layer protects it from further corrosion, unless that layer is subsequently damaged.

                  And I thought if you used Dino gear lube it had to be changed every 3k or 3 months?
                  1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                  1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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                    #84
                    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
                    ... And I thought if you used Dino gear lube it had to be changed every 3k or 3 months?
                    That was covered recently:


                    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Right, that's what I was getting it. I just had synthetic 75W-140 put in our Mark VII
                      1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                      1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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