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    Horn Sticking

    Hey guys, when the weather gets warm out, my horn will sometimes stick on for a second or two after I release the button, or require me to tap it several times to get it to go off. I'm assuming there's a spring in the wheel or something that's broken? Or can the relay stick too? Any suggestions would be helpful.

    Also, how do I get to the button in the wheel?
    Nick
    88 Colony Park LS
    G-pa's old car, but he's cruisin around heaven in his 69 wagon now
    Future plans:Semi HO conversion, or Explorer motor swap, shift kit, PI springs and sway bars, KYB-GR2 shocks

    #2
    Horn button: pry off the front of the steering wheel (later cars) or remove multifunction switch (earlier cars).

    How's your horn relay check out? I'd expect that to start sticking before the switch.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #3
      I would think that too, except it got very sensitive to the point that I could tap the rim of the wheel and it would blow. Define early and late cars if you could. Mine's an '88.
      Nick
      88 Colony Park LS
      G-pa's old car, but he's cruisin around heaven in his 69 wagon now
      Future plans:Semi HO conversion, or Explorer motor swap, shift kit, PI springs and sway bars, KYB-GR2 shocks

      Comment


        #4
        Just pry the center pad off on yours.

        The metal plates in the pad may be very close. They are thin metal that can be dented easily. Pop the pad off disconnect the two wires and pull the decorative covering off of the mechanism and see if the metal is deformed.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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          #5
          Cool, thanks guys! It seems pretty intuitive but I figured I would ask before I did something dumb and made the car undriveable lol. I appreciate it!
          Nick
          88 Colony Park LS
          G-pa's old car, but he's cruisin around heaven in his 69 wagon now
          Future plans:Semi HO conversion, or Explorer motor swap, shift kit, PI springs and sway bars, KYB-GR2 shocks

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 88MercWagon View Post
            Define early and late cars if you could.
            It'd be obvious, as early stuff you push in on the turn signal stalk, and there's just a trim piece instead of a regular horn button. My '81 has no wires at all going to the steering wheel.
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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              #7
              Ohhh, I know what you're talking about. I've seen the button on the signal stalk on early fox body Mustangs, I never knew Panthers came with it too. I thought maybe it had to be removed due do a different steering column or something.
              Nick
              88 Colony Park LS
              G-pa's old car, but he's cruisin around heaven in his 69 wagon now
              Future plans:Semi HO conversion, or Explorer motor swap, shift kit, PI springs and sway bars, KYB-GR2 shocks

              Comment


                #8
                Nope, just another great innovation, sort of like rim-blow steering wheels.
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                  #9
                  I had this problem with mine. the plat was fine, but the foam between was destroyed. I took the foam out... cleaned it all up and put a couple one inch diameter felt pads (the kind you find at walmart in the do-it-yourself section) on either side of that center hole in the rear plate. I have to pound a little harder than a stock vehicle... but it works great.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by slymer View Post
                    I had this problem with mine. the plat was fine, but the foam between was destroyed. I took the foam out... cleaned it all up and put a couple one inch diameter felt pads (the kind you find at walmart in the do-it-yourself section) on either side of that center hole in the rear plate. I have to pound a little harder than a stock vehicle... but it works great.
                    This happened in my p72 as well, before I owned it, but I still was the one that fixed it.
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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