undercoating?

[mercurygm88]

So since snow here in ohio is right around the corner ive been looking at the possibility of the oil spray method of undercoating. I noticed that (turbo2256b) mentioned in one of his posts that heating up chain saw bar lube and spraying it on works well. What I am wondering is say i try said method what exactly am i using to spray said concoction onto the undercarriage with? Seems that no-one ive talked to around here has even heard of oil undercoating so ive been at a loss lately as to how this is done.

[turbo2256b]

Do you have a compressor or access to one?

[pantera77]

Oil undercoating is very popular around here, and the only thing I've see that really has an impact on stopping/slowing down rust. Sure it's messy as hell, but to me it's worth it. I'd personally let a profession shop handle it (I'll be having my 91 wagon done in the next few weeks) as they usually do a much, much better job than you or I could just do.

[mercurygm88]

Do you have a compressor or access to one?

yes i do.

[mercurygm88]

Oil undercoating is very popular around here, and the only thing I've see that really has an impact on stopping/slowing down rust. Sure it's messy as hell, but to me it's worth it. I'd personally let a profession shop handle it (I'll be having my 91 wagon done in the next few weeks) as they usually do a much, much better job than you or I could just do.

I would have it done professionally if it wasnt for the fact that i cant find anyone here in ohio whos even ever heard of oil undercoating. Everything here is the ziebart rhino line looking stuff which i really do not trust as ive seen some very bad things happen with it.

[91grandmarquis]

I will offer up some help as I have done both my vehicles myself. You will need to get 2-3 gallons of hydraulic oil for tractors, they sell this at napa / sanels parts plus, or any other auto store. Also get some old clothes you never want to use again, they will be ruined. You will need car ramps, and a large plastic sheet, you can pick these up at home depot. All the supplies should cost about $45-$50 (this costs $75 to have done around here)

Now get a rocker shultz gun for your compressor, dump out the rocker shultz (or get one without the rocker shultz in it) fill the container with oil, and spray away. I use about 3 gallons on my truck, and about 2 on my car. You are filthy and will probably prefer to have it done by somebody else (trust me its worth paying for) But I always do it myself the first time to make sure it is done right. After this is done take the car on some dirt roads to kick a bunch of dust up and really stick the oil under the car. If you did it right the car should smoke for a good 10 minutes after warming up, just watch the brakes when you are spraying because oil on brakes has a very nasty effect of making you stop a lot quicker than you anticipate.

Also my mom had an 85 olds for 10 years and there is not a spot of rust on it, undercoated before every winter she ran it. I do my vehicles once a year as well.

Hope that helps,
-jr

[BerniniCaCO3]

I put boiled linseed oil in a spray bottle and just squirted it everywhere that was badly rusted last, just last week. I looked at it again (and resprayed) yesterday-- looked like it had cured nicely to a plastic film.

If I wait another... couple weeks?
Will undercoating stick to the linseed oil?

I can have it professionally undercoated for $100; perhaps easier than $50+ to buy proper oil supplies myself.

[91grandmarquis]

The proper equipment to do it is expensive initially, we have a rocker shultz gun lying around from when we had to spray some rocker shultz, there really is to my knowledge no specific undercoating air gun attachment for home users. The gun costs about $80 new, so if you aren't going to do it every year pay to have it done for sure. I pay to have mine done after the initial coating, and it is way easier and they usually do a decent job with it. Undercoating should stick to the other oil, but the dirt road trick helps tremendously, also don't take the car out on wet roads for a week or so, or until you have got the road dust under there to stick to the oil

[pantera77]

I would have it done professionally if it wasnt for the fact that i cant find anyone here in ohio whos even ever heard of oil undercoating. Everything here is the ziebart rhino line looking stuff which i really do not trust as ive seen some very bad things happen with it.

Ah, that sucks. Nearly every collision shop around here does it.

[LTD86]

Now get a rocker shultz gun for your compressor, dump out the rocker shultz (or get one without the rocker shultz in it) fill the container with oil, and spray away. I use about 3 gallons on my truck, and about 2 on my car. You are filthy and will probably prefer to have it done by somebody else (trust me its worth paying for) But I always do it myself the first time to make sure it is done right. After this is done take the car on some dirt roads to kick a bunch of dust up and really stick the oil under the car. If you did it right the car should smoke for a good 10 minutes after warming up, just watch the brakes when you are spraying because oil on brakes has a very nasty effect of making you stop a lot quicker than you anticipate.

This is the method I use on my vehicles before winter as well because no one has heard of oil undercoating in Illinois either. However I use chainsaw bar oil instead of the hydraulic oil. I put the vehicle up on jack stands and spray on 2 gallons. It works really good at preventing rust, much better than the rubberized undercoating that Ziebart uses. The stuff Ziebart uses dries out and peels and then traps the salt under it.
This is the gun I used. The bottle that attaches to the gun is sold seperate so you will have to buy a bottle of undercoating or something so you have the bottle (I had an empty bottle from some bedliner).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Economy-Air-Undercoating-Applicator-Gun-Undercoat-/130260932366?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e5428170e

[turbo2256b]

The chansaw bar oil is a lot cheeper. It hardens usally dosent need done again unless gas is spilled on it. It dosent eat at wiring insulation. I use a under coat spray gun. Had to find a empty can of undercoating in my case had to buy a can and dump it. Bar oil is made to cling displace water and once dried hard as hell to remove. I dont like Z bart and such either. When I purchased my 96 F350 drove it for 3 years in Detroit. The guy that bough it freeked because after crawling under the truck to look for rust he stated he had looked at new trucks that had rust and yours dosent have any. I coated it once about 2 weeks after it was delivered to me.

[GM_Guy]

I would have it done professionally if it wasnt for the fact that i cant find anyone here in ohio whos even ever heard of oil undercoating. Everything here is the ziebart rhino line looking stuff which i really do not trust as ive seen some very bad things happen with it.

Got a passport? You are only 2.5 hours away from Windsor. =-) Your own undercoating gun will pay itself back quickly.

Alex.

[88Vic]

Ah, that sucks. Nearly every collision shop around here does it.

So a regular body shop should be able to undercoat it? I need to have my Lincoln done, keep it rust free. I'm thinking about trying to get the underside Rhino lined or Line-X and then undercoat over the bedliner, have the bedliner and undercoating sprayed on all the way up the rocker panels.

[johnunit]

if there's rust, there's no point in bedlining over that. Undercoat will stick to rust sometimes, but bedliner flakes off quickly. Speaking from experience.

[88Vic]

My Lincoln has no rust which is why I want to do it now to keep it that way.