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Front End / Suspension Love

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    Front End / Suspension Love

    The next item to repair/replace/renovate on my car is the suspension/front end.

    Initially I was just going to replace the shock absorbers and coil springs, but then someone pointed out I should replace all the bushings. Further conversation revealed that perhaps the sway bar linkage might be a good idea too, which then lead to the upper and lower arm assemblies getting replaced as well. Also, I want to raise the suspension up by about 2'.

    I'm getting a quote tonight apparently, and was wondering how much I should expect to pay for this deal.

    #2
    if the sway bar/links aren't rusted out, just replace the bushings on the links (energy suspension makes a set that most parts places carry). They're pretty easy to swap out. The control arm bushings are a PITA and require some TIME and preferable an air hammer (if replacing with stock style) or a torch to burn them out (if replacing with energy suspension stuff since you have to re-use the shells) or a press to force the old rubber out (never seen this done, but I theorize that it would work). Some people even drill out the old bushings (especially on the rear axle since fire and the fuel tank don't mix well).

    now if they're replacing the arms too (unless they're rusted out, I would expect the bushings only and maybe ball joints)... you're going to spend probably a grand or two for it all due to the labor.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      Alright, so ball joints only and bushings along with the swaybar links and coils and shocks.

      Comment


        #4
        It may not be necessary to throw a total front end re-build at it, but there's is no way to say if you don't know exactly what is worn out and how bad.
        Most likely it could use all that stuff, since our cars are usually driven into the ground before we get them!
        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
        sigpic
        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

        Comment


          #5
          replace the rubber stuff first... only replace the springs if you're changing spring rate or ride height or if the springs are sagging/rusting through/cracked.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

          Comment


            #6
            Rear end of the car has a bit of sag to it, plus I want to up the height by 2 inches.

            Reason being is that I am at work 5 days a week and it's a gravel road....

            Comment


              #7
              if you're into replacing everything:

              upper ball joints
              lower ball joints
              control arm bushings (i would personally just buy new control arms with serviceable ball joints because I overdo things like this)
              sway bar bushings
              sway bar end links
              inner tie rod ends
              outer tie rod ends
              tie rod end adjusting sleeve
              pitman arm
              idler arm
              shocks
              springs (only replace if you need to; sagging or broken)
              service/adjust wheel bearings or replace if necessary
              Last edited by 1990LTD; 03-16-2013, 05:44 PM.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks, I've added those items to my iPhone's note for "Fix Car 2013".

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just do a big brake conversion if you're that far into it. Essentially the same list of parts, plus 16" wheels and tires.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    yeah, and if you're doing brakes you should get bearings/seals/races as well. it's amazing what new front end rubber and joints will do for these old boats of ours. the car will still be "floaty" but it will be 100% more responsive and predictable, much easier to drive.


                    this year i'm gonna put new uppers and lower control arms in mine, and probably a set of springs since i'll have them out anyway. replaced all of the steering linkage last year and sway bar junk it did wonders.
                    Last edited by 1990LTD; 03-18-2013, 11:46 AM.
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment

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