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HERCULINER is the only polyurethane and rubber granule coating that is applied in just 3 easy steps to your truck bed using rollers and a brush (included in the kit).
He's probably referring to the rear window. On some, it was frenched in using a fiberglass shell. The tell is no trim around the back glass, the vinyl tucks under. Its not a simple process to slicktop one of those. The shell has to be removed, and there is a bunch of dicking about to deal with all that mess. Much easier to just put it back on.
Yep, I'm talking about the rear window.
My window is much smaller than a normal rear window. A coach has a larger frame around the window.
What the top looks like before I tried Plasti Dip.
After Plasti Dip and a better view of the rear window.
Close up of the Plasti Dip. It attached itself to the fuzzy fibers in the cracks and made it look worse.
If I go with a slick top, I have to deal with this around the window. I would have to replace it with a junk yard piece or try to fabricate something with fiberglass and bondo the smaller window.
Am going to have to address this very same issue on my '84 Towncar. Splits in the vinyl are becoming more numerous, am planning on coating the vinyl roof with Herculiner.
I experimented with Herculiner on a large vinyl swatch last fall, left it sitting outside all winter, today it looks just like the day I applied it.
Do you have any pics?
Last edited by BigT; 05-18-2015, 08:06 PM.
Reason: Updated the pics
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I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate. George Burns
I loathe "coach roofs" with every shred of my existance, but that doesn't mean I don't understand them. Here's what they look like with all that nasty vinyl removed:
1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules" Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!
I think the slicktop would work fine, that big fiberglass thing doesn't look like it would be too bad.
The pull a part in South Montgomery usually has a lot of boxes. You could probably source all the trim, interior panels, and even the glass you would need to do the swap in one trip. Minimal bodywork would be needed, just the usual stuff. It'd be a lot cheaper, and more durable than redoing the vinyl too!
1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules" Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!
Here I show how to use regular tools, no special trim tools, to remove the windshield and back window trim on a 73 Monte Carlo. This also applies to just abo...
This should be about the same method. You can get body colored trim off a merk, or look for chrome trim off a vic.
Either way, your car would look hot with a slicktop, and it's be cheaper! I've always admired how you maintain the car!
1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules" Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!
I can't imagine layering that would go well. It would be overly-puffy and you'd probably have a hell of a time tucking the cloth in there around the window.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Based on Tom's picture in post 20, it really doesn't look like that big of a deal to go to a smooth top. Pull the shell, and fill the screw holes. Proceed like any other smooth top conversion.
I would hang on to that rear window though. I can imagine it would be a bish to find one of those; may be able to recoup some of the cost of your conversion, should you go that way.
**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
I got a rear window from the junk yard. Slim pickings, only one 88 GM and one 87 Crown Vic. Seems like Pull-A-Part would rather have the scrap $ than let them sit for parts.
So is there any way to test the defroster with it outside the car? It would be easier to make repairs now than after it's installed. I test it with my multi-meter, but since it parallel I get good contact everywhere I test. Or do I have to wait until I install the connects, turn on the rear defroster, and then test it? (That's all the YouTube videos I've seen test rear defrost)
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I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate. George Burns
I got a rear window from the junk yard. Slim pickings, only one 88 GM and one 87 Crown Vic. Seems like Pull-A-Part would rather have the scrap $ than let them sit for parts.
So is there any way to test the defroster with it outside the car? It would be easier to make repairs now than after it's installed. I test it with my multi-meter, but since it parallel I get good contact everywhere I test. Or do I have to wait until I install the connects, turn on the rear defroster, and then test it? (That's all the YouTube videos I've seen test rear defrost)
That kinda sucks, they used to have a lot of boxes!
I am glad you got your window, though.
1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules" Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!
Removed the old coach window. Did a test with the yard glass...and I'm looking good. I do have a couple of problems. Hoping some one can help.
Problem #1 - Holes
There are 3 large holes on each side. What do you use to fill them?
Problem # 2 - Nothing for the trim fasteners to attach too. The donated car looks like they are welding in for the trim hardware to attach. What to use?
I was thinking of attaching the trim with 3M double
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I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate. George Burns
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