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My 1987 Two Door Crown Victoria AKA THE BROWN BLOB
nice!
you can join the "my vic two door is the color of a mini cooper" club
toms vic is painted in mini cooper artic white
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
Last week I sanded down all of the plastic bumper trims (waiting for the special primer for them) and tomorrow I will began blocking out the car's primer wet with 400 grit sand paper. I plan to at least get the roof, door window frames, hood and trunk lid done leaving me with just the header panel and the entire sides of the car to block out. I foresee a huge mess and very white dry hands in my future. But I'll tell ya wet sanding the primer sure makes the car smooth as a babies bottom.
1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997UPDATED 20100826
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This morning at 6:30 i went out and began wet sanding the car. The hood, roof, trunk, and door window frames are now super smooth (as smooth as 400 grit can smooth things) and is ready for paint! But still have to block out the rest of the car. My hands are super dry my feet are wet and my jaw hurts for some strange reason, but the car looks nice and smooth, feels nice and smooth and is nice and clean after I washed it. Now to eat something and relax.
This morning at 6:30 i went out and began wet sanding the car. The hood, roof, trunk, and door window frames are now super smooth (as smooth as 400 grit can smooth things) and is ready for paint! But still have to block out the rest of the car. My hands are super dry my feet are wet and my jaw hurts for some strange reason, but the car looks nice and smooth, feels nice and smooth and is nice and clean after I washed it. Now to eat something and relax.
Awesome, I did that to my car too. Took me a solid week between work and school and makes an awful mess, but it is all worth it.
"Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles 1985 GMC 1500
You might be clenching your teeth - its easy to do subconsciously while doing strenuous/tedious things... I usually stick my tounge out a little so i don't
Hehe that is very close..since you brought it up I will let it be known that it is because I stick my lower jaw out while doing strenuous tasks. I am a freak! Wait till people see me with my tongue out!
I see I have a couple spots I missed but no biggie......Well some pics
Trunk:
Roof:
Hood:
And just a shot of the paint that will be covered up when a top is put back on:
I have a question, how did you determine the fuse for each of the wires? I'm asking because there's not a real number conversion from fuseable links to maxi fuses (that I know of). I plan on doing this on my car. Since I'm tired of the fuseable links, and my starter solenoid is so cluttered. I would appreciate your help. /Thread Jack.
I have a question, how did you determine the fuse for each of the wires? I'm asking because there's not a real number conversion from fuseable links to maxi fuses (that I know of). I plan on doing this on my car. Since I'm tired of the fuseable links, and my starter solenoid is so cluttered. I would appreciate your help. /Thread Jack.
From the post you just quoted:
With the diagram in my possession I was then able to figure out what wires should be protected by what fuses. I used the fusible link rule to help me in this manner. The fusible link rule states that if you are using a 14 gauge wire then a 18 gauge fuse link is to be used. Simply put “use a fuse link four gauges smaller.” Knowing this allowed me to determine the wire gauge of all the circuits and from that I was able to figure out how much max amperage a particular wire gauge can handle, and I chose the correct fuse from there.
I think i looked up conversion charts once i found out the actual gauges of the wires. The conversion charts told me how much amps a particular gauge can handle so I fused accordingly.
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