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85 351 4door Vic **DUW**

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    Do the impala tails, and add some 45s to the end for tailpipes.

    My Dad did this with my old '90 that he uses as a winter car, and it looks delightfully stock (although different from stock).

    I've considered doing it with my '87.
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
    **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

    Comment


      Nice! I did what Nate is suggesting with the tailpipes, and it does look good. As far as making the rod linkage work with the new carb, I'm fairly confident if you use the linkage on the VV carb, and attach it to the new throttle plate rod at the correct angle, it will work. But of course that means hacking up your old carb. I'm curious, how much did those heads set you back?
      -Phil

      sigpic

      +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

      +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

      Comment


        I would not run the risk of destroying the tire to make them look like white walls. Just turn to the black side.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
          Do the impala tails, and add some 45s to the end for tailpipes.

          My Dad did this with my old '90 that he uses as a winter car, and it looks delightfully stock (although different from stock).

          I've considered doing it with my '87.
          Is it really just a straight pipe with a turndown at the end to meet the bumper?

          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

          Comment


            Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
            Nice! I did what Nate is suggesting with the tailpipes, and it does look good. As far as making the rod linkage work with the new carb, I'm fairly confident if you use the linkage on the VV carb, and attach it to the new throttle plate rod at the correct angle, it will work. But of course that means hacking up your old carb. I'm curious, how much did those heads set you back?
            Heads, rockers, and hardware was 500. I did OK but no screaming deal

            And I'll definitely try to reuse the vv throttle stuff.I have yet to mock any of this up on the car so who knows
            Last edited by johnunit; 02-18-2014, 03:58 PM.

            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

            Comment


              Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
              I would not run the risk of destroying the tire to make them look like white walls. Just turn to the black side.
              I haveto dig up the how-to on it, to see if it's workable withmy tires and the goal of narrower whites. Nostalgia hot rod guys do this with other tires to get wide whites. I may well chicken out and go black wall as you suggest.

              85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
              160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
              waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

              06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

              Comment


                Nice parts list! I got the Lokar AOD cable and am currently trying to figure out how to get it to work with my throttle/TV cable bracket.


                Packman

                Comment


                  I'll chime in about the exhaust as I have the impy tails on my car. Just an extension and a turn down on my car to reach the bumper.
                  ~David~

                  My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                  My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                  Originally posted by ootdega
                  My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                  But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                  Comment


                    X2^

                    and I recommend welding what you can have welded. Clamps are messy. I was able to get both tails (4 welds total) for $50 from a local welding shop, and they did a bang up job. However I did use stainless MEGA CLAMPS at my mufflers with high temp RTV, so that I can easily swap out muffler at a whim if i want to. Just another idea.

                    Not a bad price for the heads and hardware considering what all that would cost new and rebuilt.
                    -Phil

                    sigpic

                    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                    Comment


                      I had looked at the impala pipes and assumed I needed more to get them just peaking out. Excellent to know.

                      I have a guy who is actually a welder by trade at work, so yes I'll be getting as much welded as is practical. I also may modify the left downpipe so that it clears the trans crossmember better.

                      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                        X2^

                        and I recommend welding what you can have welded. Clamps are messy. I was able to get both tails (4 welds total) for $50 from a local welding shop, and they did a bang up job. However I did use stainless MEGA CLAMPS at my mufflers with high temp RTV, so that I can easily swap out muffler at a whim if i want to. Just another idea.

                        Not a bad price for the heads and hardware considering what all that would cost new and rebuilt.
                        I clamp anything I might need to replace in the future. Usually mufflers. Weld the rest.

                        Sometimes getting the welder in places is a bitch too.
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                          I had looked at the impala pipes and assumed I needed more to get them just peaking out.
                          It depends how you hang them really. Mine hang low, but that's the look I was going for. Most people tuck them up.
                          2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                          2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                          2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                          1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                          Comment


                            The car is at work now, getting as much done on it as I can. I wanna hopefully maybe let's see get it done for STAP, june 13th.



                            headlines:

                            More frame rot found, will have to fix that. I'm going to hopefully get my shop's welding guy to do it.

                            The car will have the 255/295 whitewall and hidden draglites tire setup before hitting the road

                            Got the rear police sway bar installed. It and the front bar are probably the shiniest things under there

                            I have pulled literally every brake and fuel line aside from a couple connected to the distribution block thing on the frame. Mr. Bean's box's old frame has kindly donated 95% rust free lines, as well as the master cylinder, booster, and steering gear. My old MC has about a 1/4 inch of silt in the bottom, despite having flushed the front brakes 3-4 years and 3000km ago. Nasty.

                            The rear brake line wasn't that crusty, but it blew because whoever replaced it didn't tie it to anything at all. It was just kinda sitting on the frame. The leak point showed signs of rubbing. Total butchery in general, but he'd tucked it enough away to not be obvious.

                            I won't be throwing the 3.27 gears in before STAP, nor the 9.4-1 mildly ported heads. It will, however, have the 4 barrel intake and carb unless something really stupid happens.

                            The leaky tank (the original reason it was taken off the road) has been pulled, and I've shot the first coat of bedliner on it's replacement. Incidentally, Rockauto has the wrong part listed under tank straps for these cars. Maybe they fit a wagon but they don't even come close on my tank. I hit those with undercoating before checking fit though, so there's nothing I can do. The old straps are salvageable, for now.

                            The smaller starter (asked for one for a 91 5.0 vic) is in, with 10 gauge wiring from the starter cable post on the fender to the solenoid on the starter. The sound isn't as old-school but there's WAY more room to prevent heat soak and facilitate wrenching, and it seems to draw less power. I also replaced the thick starter cable and some other wiring while I was in there.

                            The rear tires, pending hoonage-related rub testing, fit without spacers. The fronts do not, and I have 1.25" spacers waiting at my dad's. The rear tires alone totally transform the stance and feel of the car. If the car wasn't close to stock I'd be tempted to keep the 205's up front and run the insane stagger. Combined with the rear swaybar, and new steering gear, it should feel like a car transformed.

                            I'll also be throwing in new Wagner shoes and all new hardware in the rear. So counting the new calipers, rotors, and pads that went in not long before it was parked, I will have an entirely new or good-used brake system.

                            I found out the 90 or 91 boxes got -0.5 degrees of camber instead of positive camber for older cars, so if anyone wants a bit more handling and grip next time they do an alignment, just try and convince them to align it as a 91. Toe specs are the same or close to it across various years.

                            Oh, and a random thank you to Rockauto for being fucking fantastic. Seriously, the delivery times are good, their new system for automatically finding the cheapest of a given part type works very well, and they have literally always undercut buying locally. I got insane deals this time, like 1.28 or so for PCV valves, about 10 bucks for ALL new parking brake cables, 127 dollars for a new gas tank, etc.

                            Questions:
                            What the heck holds in that distribution block for the brakes? The one directly below the master cylinder. Is there a bolt inside the frame I'm missing?

                            Any tips for installing the steering box not totally crooked aside from straightening the steering wheel, straightening the front wheels, and hoping for the best? I'll be doing my own alignment, so I'd rather not hog the rack while I futz around too long.

                            My vacuum hoses to my climate control are all sorts of messed up and the thing lets heat in through the floors now matter what. Is there a reason I couldn't put a plug or even a manually closing valve in the heater hose as a temp fix? I know some people loop the hose but that's just one step too ghetto-rigged for me.

                            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                            Comment


                              Why not do the heads and intake at the same time?

                              If the intake is off, all you have left is the exhaust.
                              **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                              **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                              **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                              **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                              Comment


                                Haven't checked the valve springs it came with (came off a 10 second mustang) and am running out of time and money for head gaskets and all that.

                                85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                                160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                                waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                                06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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