My 1989 Grand Marquis GS sedan "Ebyt"

[Hearsesrock427]

Small update. The body work is almost done. Swung by Henrietta Collision and got an update. All Ebyt needs is to be re-striped, and get the granny trim re-attached. Took a quick picture with my phone while I was there:

I'll start the slicktop conversion on Wednesday (which is when I'm supposed to get her back). By then, the new torque converter, and the long tube headers should be here! Win.

[Hearsesrock427]

Got her back, and she looks beautiful. Issues remain just the same. The transmission issues got worse- to the point where there was lots of converter shudder and some fluid burning. The torque converter is definitely shot. This isn't completely awful though, seeing as how my brand new B&M 2400 stall 40438 converter arrived yesterday. I planned on replacing the stock torque converter with something more performance oriented at some point. Now I don't really have a choice, haha.

Thanfully, I still have all 4 gears, plus reverse. So the clutch packs are okay. I just need to get Ebyt towed to the shop to get the new converter installed. Still waiting for the BBK long tube headers to arrive.

New issues:

-The steelie center caps fell right off. They were essentially held in place by hope and dreams. Haha. I lost BOTH passenger side caps, and I didn't even feel the them come off. This was within an hour of me getting the car back. I wasn't even doing that much spirited driving FFS. Regardless, I need to grab two more from a yard. Told place that did the body work of this, and the guy says they know of a better way to secure the caps to the wheels- urethane. It acts as a super-strong glue. Makes future brake servicing a bit difficult, but meh. Price of looking like a detective car.

-The car doesn't track or brake straight. Video of the issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7Yq...ature=youtu.be

Perhaps this has something to do with the steelie center caps coming off?

-My friend Nate noticed some axle shimmy earlier while I was showing off the car to him. I knew something felt weird....

Pics of the new look (before the center caps started flying off)! So sexy.

[Louis]

Do you have the 98+ collared lugnuts? The center cap snaps onto them very securely.

Car looks great!

[Hearsesrock427]

I vaguely recall recieving a bag with a whole bunch of them fromy my friend Nate who I bought the car from. I swear I told the body shop to use the collared lug nuts and re-mount the wheels, and that the center caps wouldn't snap on to the lugnuts that are currently on the car. Argh. No wonder why they said the center caps didn't want to lock onto the wheels.

Thanks! She looks the part of a cool car. Now just to make her drive the part! LMR better have a damn good reason to be dragging their feet with the long tube shipping.

[Louis]

Yeah, they snap on tight to the collared lugnuts. Sure beats using urethane!

[gadget73]

Just a mention, but the AOD cannot get torque converter shudder in 3 and 4. That is an AODE/4R70w problem. The converter is mechanically bypassed in 3 and 4, so if its shaking in those gears, it aint the converter. Usually its a misfire that causes shaking and carrying on in D and OD.

[Hearsesrock427]

@Louis: Indeed it does. I'll be sure to pick up some more collared lug nuts when I get the center caps this week. Talk about having your cake and eating it too! Haha.

@gadget: That makes sense. The shudder was especially prevalent at lower gears; it seemed to get better with speed. I do think I have a small misfire (still running original plug wires!)- explains why the shuddering feeling continued, albeit less intensely in the higher gears.

Methinks it's a good time to learn how to change plug wires- and do the 3G alternator swap. Ebyt's gonna be parked until early next week anyway. I'm just a wuss when it comes to automotive electrical work, haha. I'm just afraid of breaking something and/or lighting myself or the car on fire. Haha. I know, totally stupid, and something I need to get over.

Build update!

Started the highly anticipated slicktop conversion. So far, so good, so gluey. Haha. Gonna spend all night peeling off all the vinyl top material. Will pick up some cancer in a can tomorrow so I can get rid of the residual glue. If all goes well, should have it all done by this time tomorrow, save for getting all the holes welded shut and painted over. I'm keeping all the trim except for the one metal bar thing (I think it's called a tiara bar?) that goes across the roof. Also going to get the four holes on the trunk welded shut and painted over (You know, where the MERCURY and the GRAND MARQUIS GS badges used to be)? It's gonna look sick.

Once that's done, I can finish deleting the smog pump and the AC + put on the 505K6 belt, try the 3G alternator swap, or both.

Anything special I need to do with the 505K6 belt swap? I've never done anything like this before, and I can't imagine it's just as simple and un-bolting the stuff and throwing on the new belt. There's got to be some kind of adjustment needed....

[slack]

Plug wires are simple. I like to run them one at a time so I don't accidentally mess up the firing order. Just pop one off and pop the other one on. If you're afraid that the boots are going to get stuck because they've been on there for forever and a half, they have those spark plug boot puller things at the part stores. (I had one rip in half once on my '84 celebrity. So the thing was buried down by the firewall and was a nightmare to get off).

For the belt, I would think it was as easy as unbolting the smog pump and popping on the new belt. You probably have to plug the tubed line that runs from the smog pump to the exhaust though. The tensioner on these cars aren't really my favorite. They're not the nice spring loaded ones that newer cars have and last time when I replaced my water pump I remember it being a little bit annoying figuring out how the thing actually loosens up to give the belt some slack.

Haven't done the 3G swap yet myself so I can't comment on that.

Just out of curiosity, how much is the shop charging you to do the body work and paint for the slick top conversion? What's stopping me from adding that to my forever extending "To-Do" list is the bondo that needs to be done on the C-pillar.

[87gtVIC]

I'd highly recommend welding in some metal in those seams.

[Hearsesrock427]

@slack: Thanks for help man! Changed out ALL the plug wires, plus the one little wire in the middle. Started Ebyt for the first time in 2 weeks, and she fired up within half a crank! It was easy- just do them one at a time. Also, I didn't end up swapping on the 505K6 belt. I researched smog pump and AC delete on here later that day when I made the post. Turns out you can just cut the belt that goes to the AC and smog! Sliced n' diced, finished unbolting the smog pump bolts, then brute-forced the smog pump out. When I smashed the faceplate thingy off, the whole thing just fell out with a loud CLUNK! Haha. AC is next. No belt slippage or any issues to report either. Win.

For the record, I don't like BFHing my way to victory. But the bolts that held the face plates don't have heads I can turn with any of my sockets. They felt seized. I can get a picture to show you what I mean. Regardless, I need to find a way to plug the smog pump vac line. I'm thinking caulk, but I'm sure there's a better way. Ideas?

I'll do what I can with the 3G swap. I can at least prep the parts for install, haha. And I'll need to learn how to relieve belt tension for the other belt. I'm sure as shit not cutting it! I need the stuff that runs off it. Haha.

Haven't gotten quotes for the slicktop conversion, mainly because Ebyt's been parked. I'll be getting her towed to the shop that rebuilt the tranny and put in the shift kit. The guy's gonna fix (what is almost certainly) a sticking valve, install the B&M racing torque converter, and install a dedicated tranny cooler. Just waiting for him to get back from surgery- he cracked a rib about a week and a half ago.

Once I get the tranny issues sorted, I'll get the wheels re-mounted, with collarged lug nuts so the center caps will stay on! Haha. After that, I'll get as many parts put on as I can (long tubes, true duals, 3G, head unit, digidash) and then get the slicktop conversion finished. If I'm lucky, I'll have time to play around before the first snowfall. If not, I'll just park her and wait until next summer.

@87gtVIC: That's the idea. I want it to look like SXCPotatoes (spelling?)'s 1990 GMGS. His is the benchmark. I'll be doing it the same as his, except that I'm deleting the "MERCURY" and GRAND MARQUIS GS" trunk lid badges and "GRAND MARQUIS" c-pillar badges. I'll get all the holes welded shut and painted over. Low profile NARC car FTW!

In other news, I seem to have a LOT more coolant than I remember. Before cooking the tranny fluid the coolant level was right at the "FULL HOT" level on the resovoir. Now it's almost touching the black plastic top of the coolant resovoir. Don't like the idea of driving a car with overfilled coolant. Isn't there a drain plug I can open to let some out? Reference pictures?

[Hearsesrock427]

Updates.

Decided to take a risk and try to find out. Recall that I did several WOT runs before she starting cooking tranny fluid.

I decided to try the opposite during this little fact-finding mission. I drove her for like, 60 miles. Various speeds, but mostly highways. Kept my right foot out of it. No hard upshifts or kickdowns, or WOT runs. Just cruised around, nice and easy. No burnt tranny fluid. AT ALL. Makes sense, actually. Hard upshifts and hard kickdowns put a lot of stress on the tranny, causing lots of heat. Heat eventually cooks fluid. I'm thinking there's an issue with the cooling system though..... no white smoke though. Just some overflow.

Took her out again for a gentle cruise later tonight, and once again, no tranny issues. I didn't get far though- replace engine light came on and STAYED on. I waited a minute- I was climbing a decent sized hill. I wasn't even at half throttle though. The light stayed on regardless. I didn't take any chances- I limped her home immediately. I soon got to thinking "Perhaps this has to do with the coolant overflowing out of the resovoir?" There was some white smoke (not huge plumes of it, but enough to make me shit myself) coming from under the hood. I found myself thinking "This wasn't an issue earlier. And it was warmer ealier in the day! WTF?!?!?!?" I later deduced that it's a cooling system issue. Think about it. I only have 72,526 miles on her, which means excessive main bearing wear is less likely than cooling system corrosion. She does have the lopo knock, so there's definitely been SOME wear. But the bearings usually need to be completely shot for the replace engine light to stay on. I only run 10W-40, and the lopo knock is relatively quiet.....

Now you see why I'm convinced there's something amiss with the cooling system. It fits the symptoms and the condition of the car.

I'm getting the coolant flushed come Monday or Tuesday. Anything else I should have them do? Perhaps an aftermarket main cooling fan?

[HiFiMerc]

You sure it's not 172K? Mine has over 130K with no knock.

[Hearsesrock427]

@HiFiMerc: I'm not totally sure. No service history or mileage logbook, haha. Any other ways to check?

[Louis]

If its 172K, I wouldn't be doing any WOT runs.

Even if you had a completely re-built drive train, your body mounts (assuming they're original and very old) could pop under WOT with the body then ending up cockeyed on the frame.

[Hearsesrock427]

@Louis: That doesn't sound like fun, haha. Part of me wants to change them out now, just to be safe. Where do I buy new body mounts? I might be able to get my friend Nate to help me swap in new mounts- he has a crane and some Canadian jackstands. He's done two frame swaps before, so a simple body mount swap wouldn't be any trouble for him.