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Larisa "1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass 2-Door

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    Originally posted by MattsLincoln View Post
    surprisingly he had 24lb injectors 4 hole design with our type of connectors
    Actually not surprising, as them be standard issue on EFI big blocks

    Btw I wouldn't rave about injectors that have not been tried yet, should probably wait till you're grinning ear to ear while the rear tires are doing the smokey-do.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

    Comment


      Originally posted by Bobcat View Post
      Does he have 60lbers? I'm interested in a set of those.
      Your in luck logan, im assuming your looking for the ones used on the 2000-2001 SVT Cobra ?, he has a set that have a 3 year warranty for $160.



      https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/281125056330

      1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)
      -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
      1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

      Comment


        Update: More bad news, assembled the timing chain with the new dowel pin, timing marks lined up on both spprockets, cranked the motor over the starter solenoid to see if i got compression more turned for little until finally seizing up . now have to tear down to the block and see what is holding up. Lincolnmania is thinking a bent valve is holding up the crank from turning. my luck isnt working

        1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)
        -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
        1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

        Comment


          Brutal. Best of luck figuring it out. I'd like to see her going again! I love the color of that car.

          Comment


            Aww shit, just when things were going so well. Best of luck buddy, hope it ends up not being a total cluster-fuck.

            Comment


              Wait, you cranked the thing over with the starter? Da fuq man, you should know better! Anyways, what's done is done - pull valve covers and remove rockers, this should allow all valves to close regardless of where the cam wants them to be. Throw a straight edge or something across the tails of the valves, you'll be able to easily see if one or more are bent, they will be the ones not returning all the way up. Pull the pushrods while at it, and roll them on a flat surface (like a table for instance), good chance if a valve got bent and jammed up the pushrod operating its rocker is bent too.
              The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
              The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

              Comment


                2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                Comment


                  Throw a bar on it and see if it moves one way and not the other, theoretically if there's a bent valve you should be able to spin the motor backwards plenty and then forwards a bit until it hits the valve. I kind of doubt you bent a valve, I'd bet that it's just hydro locked or possibly a little rusty from having all of the fuel in the cylinders, which wouldn't be a big deal. Throw a breaker bar on it and find out. Make sure to take out some spark plugs to push out all the fuel in the cylinders.

                  Change. Your. Oil.

                  Then run it as fuel, since that's likely what it's become.
                  __________________________________________________


                  1985.03 Crown Vic. Coupe "CVGT" Build thread - china whirlybird, burnout machine.
                  The only 6 speed box on a late model frame.

                  Originally posted by SVT98t
                  It has air ride. I've disabled it since I've been jacking it up and down.

                  That is how you're supposed to jack it.

                  Up and down.

                  -ryan s.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Bobcat View Post
                    Throw a bar on it and see if it moves one way and not the other, theoretically if there's a bent valve you should be able to spin the motor backwards plenty and then forwards a bit until it hits the valve. I kind of doubt you bent a valve, I'd bet that it's just hydro locked or possibly a little rusty from having all of the fuel in the cylinders, which wouldn't be a big deal. Throw a breaker bar on it and find out. Make sure to take out some spark plugs to push out all the fuel in the cylinders.

                    Change. Your. Oil.

                    Then run it as fuel, since that's likely what it's become.

                    here is what i did,

                    1. Put the new dowel pin on the cam
                    2. Reassembled timing chain
                    3. torqued the cam gear bolt to spec 45Ft lbs
                    4. jumped the starter solenoid on the fender to see if the compression changed, it did it spun around a full rotation and half another rotation before not wanting to turn anymore and getting a stress whine from the starter.
                    5. proceeded to torque down the crank bolt with my air gun, then used my breaker bar to see if i could spin the motor the way it turns, it moved just a hair then froze, wasn't going to force all my strength on it and risk breaking the crank bolt.
                    6. then decided to use my breaker bar the opposite way to reverse the crank, it moved back just a hair(by hair i mean one tooth on the timing chain gear moved) then froze again up that i was able to use my breaker bar and loosen the crank bolt mind you that's on there pretty tight since it was put on by my air gun.

                    Note: all spark plugs were still in the heads.


                    86VickyLX thinks the motor is seized. Lincolnmania told me to pull off the intakes, the valve covers, and rocker arms. haven't torn any of that down yet, probably will tonight unless you guys think there's another way to free the motor up before disassembling all that.

                    also i pulled number 5 spark plug which is the one with the stuck injector, mind you no fuel injectors were running, after pulling that plug out no fuel came out., that cylinder isnt hydrolocked like it was before, unless i have another bad stuck open injector that we didnt know about and fuel got into it, though i didnt get a thump like i did before when the motor hydrolocked, it just got harder to turn the crank on its own cranking power from the starter, before not wanting to turn anymore.
                    Last edited by MattsLincoln; 03-15-2016, 11:11 AM.

                    1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)
                    -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
                    1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

                    Comment


                      All recommendations about pulling the valve covers are good. Though you may want to pull all plugs. Also did you drain the oil after you hydrolocked it? If not you should do that. You might be very surprised what and how much comes out. Add some cheap oil. Then spray/pour a bit of marvel or something similar in each cylinder. Ground the coil wire. After a minute or two try and tap the starter with the plugs out.
                      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                      Comment


                        All recommendations about pulling the valve covers are good and will likely be required in the end.
                        Though you may want to try this first.
                        Pull all plugs.
                        Also did you drain and replace the oil after you hydrolocked it? If not you should do that. You might be very surprised at what and how much comes out.
                        Add 4qts cheap oil.
                        Ground the Coil wire.
                        Make sure the battery is fully charged.
                        Spray/pour a couple of tablespoons of marvel mystery oil or something similar in each cylinder.
                        Wait three minutes.
                        Repeatedly try and tap the starter with the plugs out and coil wire grounded.

                        Good Luck,
                        Jay
                        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                        Comment


                          Absolutely pull all plugs while compression-testing, way less work for the starter that way and you can get higher engine speed for a more accurate reading. Bit past that point now tho... Start disassemblying things till you find the issue.
                          The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                          The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                          Comment


                            I'm thinking the issue is with the cam itself. He's pulled all plugs and removed the rockers and push rods. He found so far that there's a bent pushrod for one of the rockers for cylinder 3. Told him to pull the chain off again and see if he can spin either the cam or crank by hand. Since there's no connection to the heads, I'd imagine one of those things should be turning with not too much effort. The thing that don't spin is the problem. I feel like it's something to do with the cam as that dowel pin sheered off. apparently that's what the explorer cam uses as his friend just got an explorer motor as well with the same strange looking dowel pin.

                            Comment


                              Mine had a solid pin, but to be honest I couldn't tell you whether that pin was in the cam, or if it came from some other cam to put in there.

                              If the bearings aren't fitted properly or if there is a burr on the cam journal it'll lock up tight. There is extremely little clearance between the journals and the cam. Crashing the cam into the journals while assembling it will very easily nick the bearing or the cam. Not having assembly lube will "weld" the bearings to the journals too, and that also won't do.

                              Insufficient endplay on the cam will cause problems too. That is determined by the thrust plate and the cam gear. I forget the spec, but its a few thousandths, measured with a dial indicator. I know a lot of people don't do this, but it does matter.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                                Mine had a solid pin, but to be honest I couldn't tell you whether that pin was in the cam, or if it came from some other cam to put in there.

                                If the bearings aren't fitted properly or if there is a burr on the cam journal it'll lock up tight. There is extremely little clearance between the journals and the cam. Crashing the cam into the journals while assembling it will very easily nick the bearing or the cam. Not having assembly lube will "weld" the bearings to the journals too, and that also won't do.

                                Insufficient endplay on the cam will cause problems too. That is determined by the thrust plate and the cam gear. I forget the spec, but its a few thousandths, measured with a dial indicator. I know a lot of people don't do this, but it does matter.
                                cam was never pulled when building the motor it was not touched when being built.

                                1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)
                                -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
                                1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

                                Comment

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