My 79 Marquis

[Brown_Muscle]

Wow those are shiny. Did you follow the manufactures time between coats? If it was colder those times are usually longer, sometimes significantly so.

Im sure you know this but don’t wax it for at least a month. The paint manufacturer should say when it’s cured completely, usually 30-60 days. But sometimes longer.

[Mainemantom]

Single Stage Urethane, the brand name was Wanda, the distributer gave me a discount, a gallon was $390.. From what I read , it's more than decent stuff. I manged to get the coats above on, I do have some really small fish eyes and some dirt....but it laid flat.

Was the paint urethane or Polyurethane? Poly has a quicker dry time, about 8 hours. Urethane dries in about 24 hours. Poly is very durable and about the best single stage available. It keeps a good shine for years.
Regarding the "solvent pops", I would not mess with it. Was your air compressor dryer drained or changed before the paint work ?
You might look at the Wanda website. They have a Paint Defect Identifier program you could use.
Your did a great job !

[Mainemantom]

The stainless trim looks new. Well worth the expense to have it redone.

[87gtVIC]

I would not mess with the paint either. Solvent pop is the underlying material outgassing. If you put an additional coat of paint on to quick the solvent has no where to escape but up through your latest coat of paint. Like others said waiting a bit longer between coats can help in avoiding that.


the trim looks damn good.

may be worth looking into some kinda of metal coating or wax for the trim to help out on its upkeep. Depending on where it’s stored and how the car is driven t he at trim May be a nuisance to keep looking good.

[Tiggie]

Remember you are that paint job's biggest critic. A lot of the imperfections will not be as noticeable once the car is reassembled and out of the shop lights.

[Grand1]

The solvent pop definitely goes back to user error. I was running alot through my mind along (am I spraying at the right distance? , a little more hardener?, am I overrlapping to much?, etc) with not having that confidence that only comes with experience.

Pretty sure it was a mixture of flash time and moisture in my lines. All in all I got about 30 to 40 pinhead size pops scattered throughout the body. I will say this color is very forgiving. Lesson learned.

[VicCrownVic]

That's in my neck of the woods.

Looking good. I need to get back out there to see it in person. When did it get to be the end of October already?

[Grand1]

I got something up your alley....putting illuminated door locks in. What of connector and where to join it up?

[VicCrownVic]

Was that an option in '79? If so, I would think the connector is in the door somewhere folded over and taped to the harness. If not, I'll have to do a bit of research to figure out what to tie that into to make it work. I'm sure someone else here knows a bit more about that than I do already.

[Grand1]

Not an option, I just wanted to add it. Looks like I need a two blade connector

[1985crownvicltd85]

I just added illuminated entry on my crown vic and grand marquis.

The grand marquis was pre-wired up to the kick panel. An illuminated entry timer was needed, wiring to both front doors from each kick panel, illuminated lock cylinders, Two door handle switches (this is what activates the lights when you pull up on the exterior door handle.


The crown vic had two illuminated lock cylinders and both door handle switches. everything else that I named above had to be added.


If your car is pre wired (only up to the kick panels), there should be a loose connector right above the gas pedal for the illuminated entry timer. If not you're best bet is to find a junkyard car with illuminated entry and take the illuminated entry module, wiring, connectors, door handle switches (and the screws that hold them to the door latch assembly), and spare lock cylinders.


This is all fresh in my mind since I got to do this twice in the past year, so if you have questions let me know. Also, nice job with the car.

[slack]

That trim looks incredible!

[Grand1]

Thanks for the info, 1985crown...good stuff to know...yeah it shines looking at preservation stuff for it as others has suggested.

On (both front) power lock actuators....I see some listed but they don't have the same ends as mine. Motorcraft part number, come up empty. The end of mine is a 90 degree hook. Can I get the other ones with a differnt angle. ...like the above?

[Arquemann]

One that I bought off RA came with half a dozen different ends, no exact match, but I picked one that was already the correct length and bent the end to a 90.
Also that S-shape might fit as is.

[87gtVIC]

I believe Thain mentioned that these can be disassembled allowing one to swap the rods. So in theory you would be fine picking up any similar vintage power lock actuator and just swap in your existing rod to get what you need.