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My 1983 Continental Mark VI!
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They are generally a PITA plus I am getting a bit old to pound off the drums that are rusted in place. Also I know some folks swear by self adjusters, i sometimes swear at them. I know big deal, jack up the car and adjust the rear brakes periodically it is just like fetching water from the well.
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I think the trick to that is adjusting the starwheel out a good bit. I don't recall having to touch drummies on a box, but I have on a '92 F150. Redid the whole system from the backing plates forward. Funny, I love drum brakes. I usually leave one side together as I rehab the other.
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Honestly the worst part was keeping the parking brake lever that goes between the two shoes in place. Once I got that lined up everything went pretty smooth.
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Well at least you did not give up and got the job done. That is how to learn.
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I'm never doing drum brakes again! To hell with that shit. I've never even seen drum brakes other than in photos, the first side took me four and a half hours of videos, phone calls, and trial and error to figure out. The second side took an hour but it was still no fun. I did at least replace all the hardware and self adjusters. The wheel cylinders and the drums themselves were fine, the passenger side basically disintegrated when I pulled the drum off. I'd say that was my problem. The drivers side was in pretty good shape.Last edited by mercurygm88; 08-06-2022, 02:20 PM.
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Wagons and most tow package sedans also got the 11" drums.
Someone on here had an odd duck regular sedan with them. And I had a tow package sedan without.
I'd pull a wheel and check if I were you.
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As long as someone hasn't swapped it, you should have 10". Police and wagons had 11".
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So one of my rear brakes is making noise. I’m going to tear into that next week. I went to order shoes and ran into the old 10” or 11” drum issue. Is it for sure one or the other or am I going to have to measure to be sure? I feel like when I had my ‘88 MGM I read that only police package Vic’s had 11” drinks but I could be wrong.
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Sorry - got my "wires crossed" on what car the issue was with.
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Originally posted by friskyfrankie View PostGuess if you previously had a parasitic draw that sort of puts a "monkey wrench" into the diagnosis.
This car gets driven a couple times a week in nice weather. Putting a battery disconnect on it isn't a huge issue.
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Guess if you previously had a parasitic draw that sort of puts a "monkey wrench" into the diagnosis.
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It only does it with the motor that originally came in the car, or at least the one that was in it when I bought it. Never had a problem with the NOS one I got on eBay until it quit operating.
The motor on the eBay unit runs but the antenna doesn’t extend or retract, it gave up about a month ago. The one that came in the car wasn’t working when I bought it but I was able to get it going. I charged and tested the battery yesterday at work. I won’t have time to mess with anything until this evening.
I’m starting to wonder if it’s even related to the antenna. My ‘88 MGM had a constant battery draw pop up at one point, I put a disconnect on it and a few months later it was fine. I drove it two more years without ever having the issue again. Never did figure that one out.Last edited by mercurygm88; 05-07-2022, 07:05 AM.
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The early power antennas had limit switches in them to turn it off once it gets to end of travel so it *shouldn't* run the batt down but no guarantees. If that switch were leaking current it might act up, and if its not the original style then all bets are off. There is also a special control relay, or at least my 84 has one. If that had some problem it might create draw. See if the relay is warm.
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