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    more friggin' window problems

    same window I had to replace the motor in. Problem started yesterday, the window wouldn't move and was "skipping"...ugh.



    Turns out there were a few missing teeth on the gear that actually rolls the window up, completely fucking up the gears/teeth on the motor and consequently, my power windows shit. Now I need to find whatever fucking gear is needed and ANOTHER fucking window motor.



    FUCK.



    Did I say FUCK already?


    Any idea what my mechanic is talking about? Does this make any sense to anyone?
    Last edited by 1990LTD; 08-26-2009, 04:48 PM.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    either your mechanic is a retard or is ripping you off... teeth could be damaged but he should have seen damage on the old one, unless he messed it up installing the new one.
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 85crownHPP View Post
      either your mechanic is a retard or is ripping you off... teeth could be damaged but he should have seen damage on the old one, unless he messed it up installing the new one.


      I'm convinced that he is neither...he's been working for me and my family for years. Backyard (well, garage) type of thing and has always done great work.


      He completely admits that he should have seen the missing teeth when he put the new motor in. He only realized teeth were missing on original motor when he pulled it out of his pile-o-parts and cleaned it up and could see missing teeth.

      The problem still remains: What parts am I looking for? Chances of finding them locally are very slim so I'm gonna be looking online.
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #4
        sounds like you need a new regulator... i dont know why the teeth would have broken though... the bushings inside the motor should have broken long before any damage was done to the teeth.... unless he installed it wrong.
        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
        sigpic
        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

        Comment


          #5
          He said it's a half or two-third moon shaped piece, that's all I can really remember. I'm only relaying what information I can remember and I might be getting some of it slightly wrong.



          Would taking parts from the rear PS door work? I don't care if that window ever opens again.
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            You really need to find out exactly whats broken. If its the large gear attached to the regulator mechanism inside the door, then a rear door one probably will not work. If its part of the window motor itself, then the one on the rear passenger side ought to be the same. I don't believe those regulators can be dissassembled, so probably you're looking at pulling the glass from the door, drilling all the big rivets out, and removing the complete regulator assembly from the door shell.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              I was bored so I tried taking it apart to see what's what but I have no idea how to get the armrest off completely. I can take all of the bolts and junk out so it's free but it's not going anywhere on account of the lock/ashtray/window switch panel still being there.

              I'm done with it for today. The window will stay up.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                I had a similar problem on my car. The motor was fine but the regulator assembly had two teeth missing on the gear and wouldn't you know that two door's have a specific assembly. I got a nos replacement since the yards around here have nothing. That stupid regulator was problably the most expensive part I bought for the car. Luckily you should be able to find a replacement in a junkyard since four doors are much more common.
                sigpic
                1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                Comment


                  #9



                  I'm gonna stop by his place tomorrow and see if this is what I need.
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                    I was bored so I tried taking it apart to see what's what but I have no idea how to get the armrest off completely. I can take all of the bolts and junk out so it's free but it's not going anywhere on account of the lock/ashtray/window switch panel still being there.

                    I'm done with it for today. The window will stay up.
                    Should be screws underneath the switch panel that will realease those items individually.
                    Former panther owner
                    1981 CV 351 4bbl
                    1991 CV 302 EFI

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Gah! How did I not notice that?!? thanks andymac.


                      Anyone happen to know if window motors from an 88 MGM GS would fit my 90 CV? Taking it apart and checking is on my list of things to do but if I knew it was the wrong one beforehand...
                      Last edited by 1990LTD; 08-28-2009, 05:15 PM.
                      sigpic


                      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Based on what I'm reading on here it should fit (see post #6)
                        .....But I don't really know for certain.
                        Former panther owner
                        1981 CV 351 4bbl
                        1991 CV 302 EFI

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks again! Oh well, I'm enjoying the hell out of taking old blue apart anyway - Wrong motor wouldn't be a big deal since someone else probably needs these.
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                            You really need to find out exactly whats broken. If its the large gear attached to the regulator mechanism inside the door, then a rear door one probably will not work. If its part of the window motor itself, then the one on the rear passenger side ought to be the same. I don't believe those regulators can be dissassembled, so probably you're looking at pulling the glass from the door, drilling all the big rivets out, and removing the complete regulator assembly from the door shell.
                            No they'll come out without pulling the glass from the door. Just pop the four rivets, and slide the metal arm with the plastic slider out of the window track. Keep the motor hooked up cause you will need to make the regulator move to fit it through the hole in the door frame. If the regulator is broken, you might have to push the regulator by hand until the motor can grab it. It's spring loaded, so be careful. Wear gloves to keep your hands from getting cut up. Also, have the window held up so you don't lose a hand or something.
                            The '88 motor is kinda bulky, and might not fit completely. I have a '90s motor in the rear door, and it only bolted to two of the three regulator mounting bolts, but the gears are the same.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              This motor actually seems pretty small. Anyway, I tore everything out of the door that wasn't riveted to the glass.
                              sigpic


                              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                              Comment

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