Hey guys so I found my fuel leak on the passenger side right next to the control arms. Its is PISSING out now touching the exhaust manifold. The piece of line thats leaking it a straight piece I'm sure I can cut 2" off the line and replace it but I don't have the cash to tow it to my school to fix it so how and what would I need to repair and fix this little problem. Thanks.
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compression fittings are your friend in this case. if you've got flaring tools. I would just cut a piece out and buy a length of line with some compression fittings from the local parts store, and drive it to your school to replace the entire length of line (when lines rot, it's usually a domino effect...this one goes then that one and then this other one)sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock -
you could wrap some fuel line around the leaky spot just so it's not pissing on the exhaust so you can piss fuel on the frame and ground instead and just drive it to school to work on.
of course... if you put a radiator clamp on it right at the hole... it might even temp seal it enough to only drip mildly or even stop it.Last edited by sly; 06-13-2012, 04:46 PM.
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rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73Originally posted by dmccaigComment
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cut the steel line and splice in some rubber fuel injection hose. Clamp it in place, go. Passenger side is the feed, so its high pressure over there. Make sure the line you buy is rated for fuel injection, not carb pressures. ~40 psi minimum.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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So I was right!
That's actually the first place my old 91 marq started leaking gas, then it was the return on the drivers side under the a-pillar that went.
I replaced all the lines with high pressure rubber fuel hose, still look good to this day.2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
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I'm starting to think when its time to do the fuel lines on my car (and thats getting soon), I might take a page from the Mark VII's book and use the plastic line. Not totally sure I like the idea of rubber but the plastic has held up OK on the Mark. Its expensive, but it certainly isn't going to rust.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Great info guys. Its in a tricky spot so I'll try to deflect the leak of the exhaust just enough to drive it to school. Great idea's guys thanks.Comment
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The way stuff rusts up there, those lines would just disintegrate if he tried anything like that, lolOriginally posted by slymer View PostPete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereoComment
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They do make that tool that allows you to connect those plastic lines to anything, even factory Ford quick disconnects. You could probably make that come out factory quality.Originally posted by gadget73 View Post2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
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What size line would I need to get.Comment
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