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Thread: Buyer's Remorse (AKA "Hideous") - Giraffe's 1990 Grand Marquis LS

  1. #21
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grand Marquis GT View Post
    I used to dump a can of "restore" in with every oil change. It seemed to quell the lopo knock.
    Never heard of that stuff. Is it anything like the Lucas oil stabilizer?

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    Is your knock present hot/cold/all the time?
    I'm not sure. I'll have to check next time I run it. Out of town for Thanksgiving, so that'll have to wait until next week.

    I bought a new Motorcraft battery for it yesterday; it cranks on its own now. I just need the solenoid and I should be able to get rid of that stupid switch as well. I'd like to start daily driving it next week. I also noticed that is has a pronounced oil leak coming from somewhere on the driver's side that's leaking onto the cat making it smoke constantly. It's also dripping on the ground at a rate of about two drops per minute. There's so much dirt/oil everywhere that I really can't tell where it's coming from.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  2. #22
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Gonna grab these. I can get 100 for the price of two cards of three. Always good to have spares.

    Attachment 46459
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  3. #23
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I usually suggest a stereo upgrade instead of magic potion in the engine. Fix the knock properly when it becomes a real problem with an actual engine.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #24
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I usually suggest a stereo upgrade instead of magic potion in the engine. Fix the knock properly when it becomes a real problem with an actual engine.
    Not a bad idea since the radio doesn't work. I'm going to look into acquiring a jy exploder motor soon, I think. Might as well have it ready.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  5. #25
    BANNED! sxcpotatoes's Avatar
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    Engine Honey in a can will thicken oil and get rid of the knock or just run 20w-50
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  6. #26
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I usually suggest a stereo upgrade instead of magic potion in the engine. Fix the knock properly when it becomes a real problem with an actual engine.
    You think I could get a good sounding system with just four good speakers and a good aftermarket head unit? I've never messed with audio systems in any of my cars. I'd be happy with something on par with Ford factory sounds systems since the 2000's.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giraffe View Post
    The spare is also useless. It looks to have been involved in a major blowout.
    Wow...
    '79 Continental Town Car
    '90 Crown Victoria LTD
    '94 Crown Victoria

  8. #28
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    Nice find on the regulator bushings.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  9. #29
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    For the source of the oil leak, my first guess would be valve cover gaskets. Make sure the valve cover bolts are not loose, I came across that recently.

    If that's not it, my second guess would be the lower intake gasket. I would think this would be less likely than valve covers gaskets.

    If the source is still not identified, check the PCV. The grommet along wit the valve will pop out of the lower intake and oil can escape in the fumes coming from there. If there is significant blow-by, enough oily fumes can escape and the oil accumulate to the point where it drips. Usually the tell-tale sign of that is an oily wiper cowl in that area. I would think this would be highly unlikely to be your source, but if nothing else is found this is the last thing I would check.

    Another oil leak I have had in the past is the original oil pressure sensor/switch. That's toward the font by the oil filter, not near the area you describe. That should leak straight down, so not likely your culprit.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  10. #30
    Southern
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    What Vic said. If it's that nasty i would take the car to town and pressure wash the motor and then buy permaseal rubber valve cover gaskets and a new lower Intake gasket set. Put a new pcv, screen, distributor o ring, and oil sending unit. Short of oil pan gasket that should fix a lot of oil leaks.

  11. #31
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    The pcv valve could also be clogged. When this happens the car sprouts oil leaks. Which will probably decrease but not stop once the filter/screen is replaced.

    After washing the engine compartment, Change the PCV, filter/screen and grommet. It is a small PITA but is not expensive and is always a good "new car" step along with making sure the kickdown bushing is brass not plastic. (can't remember if you mentioned that as being done already.)

    In general these are the two things to start with on unknown boxes with these components in addition to common things like fluid and filter changes.

    It certainly would not hurt to follow NICK's advice either as there is a good chance all his recommendations will need to be done at some point.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  12. #32
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    I'm suspecting valve cover or intake. I might have a perma-dry gasket set laying around that I was intending to use on the Mustang. I'll check.

    Here's what's left of the spare. It's been replaced for the time being with an extra turbine from the junkyard.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  13. #33
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    A few things. Had a honey-do to take care of, so I didn't get as much time as I would have liked after work today. I decided to tackle the front driver's window motor since the below package arrived today.

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    Yes! $18 got me a box of 100; these are the same ones they sell in the HELP! section at the parts stores at $8 for a card of three. You can even get the same box of 100 for $8.00 on Rock Auto, but the shipping was kind of expensive for some reason, negating the savings.

    Once I got the panel and everything else removed, I realized what my problem was. The window regulator arm pivot stud somehow came loose from the plastic bushing that runs in the track. The previous owner's fix was to secure the window up with wire and disconnect the window motor. Then I made an idiot blunder when I removed the motor and attempted to replace the gear bushings. I brain farted and forgot that the metal gear is held in by a clip. I pried on it and ended up damaging it beyond repair. Gonna order a new gear off Rock Auto. Not sure what I'm going to do about the regulator. I can't fathom how the plastic piece came off in the first place. The hole is too small to simply snap the pivot stud back in. Pics.

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    It was at this time that I ran out of daylight. On another note, something I ordered came in today.

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    I supposedly found a NOS battery hold-down bracket on eBay, but it's too tall to be bolted down at the factory location and is too narrow to fit around my Motocraft battery. I don't see a part number anywhere on it and it did not come in original packaging. Were the original batteries that much shorter/narrower? I also found a NOS front license plate bracket on eBay. My car was originally an Oklahoma car and did not have the front bracket installed. This one is brand new in the orignal package; only problem is that it's a bit out of shape. It looks like it's been underneath a pile of parts for a while. It comes with two mounting screws and plastic rivets. I was rummaging around for my horror fright rivet gun, but I can't find it. Looks like I'll have to spend another $0.99.

    In another bit of happy news, I do indeed have an extra set of Fel-Pro PermaDry valve cover gaskets laying around. I also have an extra set for the oil pan and a PTFE rear main seal that will probably go on at a later date.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So as of right now, both driver's side panels are off. One is waiting for a new window motor gear and for me to figure out this regulator situation. The other one just needs some more time.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  14. #34
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    8 bucks for 100 of those? I was thinking of measuring them and buying some rod stock to cut my own, but at that price it would not be worth my time by any stretch. Hell, I doubt I could buy the material to make 100 of them for 8 bucks.

    I do not recall any retaining clips in the window motors. Maybe its a later model thing. Mine all had one screw holding a cover plate on, removing the cover let you just pull the gear right off the axle in the center of the whole mess. Mine is an 86, the gear head on the window motors has a 1960's part number on it, the motor itself has a 1970s part number. Only thing that changed in the 70s was they went from a round plug to a rectangle.


    I wouldn't worry so much about the pan or rear main. They rarely go bad. Most of the oil pukage is the valve covers and the lower intake. My Mark VII has 250k on it, and after changing those it doesn't leak oil. Oil pan has never been off, and I would lay money on the rear main not having been done when the trans was out of it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  15. #35
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    hmm... looking at scott's video that must be an older model thing where only the cover holds the gear in... http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post615971

    The newer ones are also held in by the cover, but there is also a c clip on the top end of that axle that holds the gear in. So you can't just pop it out like scott did in the video in that other thread. I never realized that was an older model thing, unless you guys are all missing your c clips.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  16. #36
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    My motors have 1989 part numbers on them.

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    Here is a picture of the clip and the groove where it sits on the shaft.

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    I ended up breaking the plastic piece that goes on the regulator while trying to reinstall it. Looks like I'll be needing a new regulator. I couldn't find any place online that had the piece. Anyone have an extra regulator lying around?
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  17. #37
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giraffe View Post
    My motors have 1989 part numbers on them.

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    Here is a picture of the clip and the groove where it sits on the shaft.

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    I ended up breaking the plastic piece that goes on the regulator while trying to reinstall it. Looks like I'll be needing a new regulator. I couldn't find any place online that had the piece. Anyone have an extra regulator lying around?
    What piece are you talking about? I don't know of any plastic parts on the box regulators.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  18. #38
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    What piece are you talking about? I don't know of any plastic parts on the box regulators.
    The rectangular piece in the fourth picture on post #33. It goes into the window track. I think the regulators are specific to '90-'91. That piece somehow came off the pivot stud on the end of the lift arm. Tried to get it back on and just ended up shattering it. Very sad.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  19. #39
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Its not specific to the 90s models. The older ones had that same plastic slider in the track under the window glass.

    Thats the later style motor. I see the C clip groove on it. Mine doesn't have that, and the motor itself is a fair bit larger. Annoyingly, its not actually as powerful so my windows run a little slower, and being a Lincoln its got a more complicated window regulator mechanism too.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  20. #40
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    I'm going to call junkyard in Dallas that had that 1990 GM from which I picked parts last Friday. Hopefully it hasn't yet been crushed and they can pull the regulator and motor and ship it up here.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

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