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Thread: What battery to use?

  1. #1

    Default What battery to use?

    The search function on tapatalk so nothing relavent comes up or else Id use it. When looking for a new battery for my 87 Ive come across a few different types and had a few questions. Have any of you guys used an agm type battery in your box? I thought they needed to be charged a certain voltage or else you can shorten its life? Like with modern Fords that use a smart charging system. Do they really last that much longer than their lead acid counterparts? Is it really worth it? The bottom line is that on paper they seem to be better ( hold a charge when sitting, better in extreme environments...) but are they really better in the real world to warrent the extra cost? Otherwise Ill go with a walmart special. Any input would be helpful.


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  2. #2
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Only AGMs I've had have been second hand for cheap. Got an one year old Optima in the '97 that was a warranty battery that someone just didn't understand how to charge. One before that was a three old year Optima that was put to work in my Comet project. Honestly, given the cost though, I would not be likely to purchase one new.

    Otherwise, all my lead acid ones have been new prior to that. I typically expect 3-5 years out of them down here. I've got a Group 64 in the '87. Correct size for the battery tray and fits the hold down. A Group 56 can be substituted in place of a Group 64, but I found the 64 offered higher CCAs. Some people have modded the earlier battery trays to fit the later Group 65 batteries though.

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  3. #3

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    I researched optima a few years ago but the consensus was that theyre trash nowadays.

    That brings up another thing, when I was looking up what battery group it uses the few sources I found all said group 65 so 64 is news to me.


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  4. #4
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    I researched optima a few years ago but the consensus was that theyre trash nowadays.

    That brings up another thing, when I was looking up what battery group it uses the few sources I found all said group 65 so 64 is news to me.


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    There's a little nub that has to be ground down to allow for the 65 to sit flat in that area. Otherwise, you risk the chance of the case getting damaged.

    There was a 65 in my '87 when I got it, and one day it was stone cold dead. Jumped it off, drove around the block, shut it off, turn the key on and nothing. Checked more thoroughly around the battery and saw acid everywhere. The battery must have shifted around at some point and that nub wore/knocked a hole in the battery and the acid ran out of one or two cells.

    Since I wanted a direct fit battery at that point, I just tossed a Group 64 in since it fits correctly.



    I have since gotten a OE hold down from the junkyard which fits across the battery perfectly, but if you don't have one, the generic ones work too.

    My Cars:
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    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
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  5. #5
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    I've read and come to the consensus that the extra price for AGM isnt worth it in a car. My last Bosch battery lasted me 10 years- and i wasnt easy on it. So I bought another.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, GT40 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Baumann Shift kit.
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  6. #6
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The nEverStart that was in my 93 lasted 7 years. Pretty much all batteries are made in the same places and the warranty is what you're paying for. This will lock you into that brand/store and you will get discounts on future batteries as most will die off early. I still pay for the longer warranty as this has saved me more than the extra cost due to defects or alternators going bad and taking batteries out and the battery just being replaced straight up.

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  7. #7

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    Sounds like an agm battery is a no go. Thanks. I think Ill just go for a cheap one for the time being.


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    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, I've not taken notice of battery types. I just know that the battery in my '91 Ranger was the largest I've seen. I replaced/bought it after I first brought the truck home in 2012. It was still running quite strong when I junked the truck. I think my Dad may have pulled that battery when the scrappers towed it out. I'll go over there and check. Now I'm curious to see if it will fit in the aftermarket battery tray I installed in the CV.

  9. #9
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    There's a little nub that has to be ground down to allow for the 65 to sit flat in that area. Otherwise, you risk the chance of the case getting damaged.

    There was a 65 in my '87 when I got it, and one day it was stone cold dead. Jumped it off, drove around the block, shut it off, turn the key on and nothing. Checked more thoroughly around the battery and saw acid everywhere. The battery must have shifted around at some point and that nub wore/knocked a hole in the battery and the acid ran out of one or two cells.

    Since I wanted a direct fit battery at that point, I just tossed a Group 64 in since it fits correctly.



    I have since gotten a OE hold down from the junkyard which fits across the battery perfectly, but if you don't have one, the generic ones work too.
    I've had bad luck with the generic rubber hold down for the battery. It worked great at first but within a year or so it dry rotted and snapped so the battery was banging around in the tray again. I think right now on my '78 I'm using an old shoe string tied tight around it.

  10. #10

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    The po used a giant ziptie lol but I got a hold down from a town car in a local junkyard.

    I couldnt find a type 64 battery so I ended up getting a type 65. The interstate battery in it now is a 65 so I think itll work, hopefully the hold down will fit around it.


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  11. #11
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    FWIW, I've had good luck with lead-acid batteries made by East Penn/Deka. Believe the last one I got was from Oreilly's under the Super Start name. It costs more than you're typical Walmart battery but I wanted something that my friend could depend on. So far so good and that old 5.3 Chevy truck fires up with no issue. I just try to avoid ones made by Johnson Controls. Last one I installed barely made it 3 years.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

  12. #12
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    I had a ratchet strap holding my battery down. When I pulled the engine, I decided to buy a JEGS universal battery tray and make it work. We'll see how it does when I get the car back together.

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...toria-LX/page9

  13. #13

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    Can anyone verify that group size 58 superceded group 64 in our cars?


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  14. #14
    Hobbit
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    Just get one from the dealer. For the price you can't beat them. I've been buying all my batteries from Ford even for my BMWs because they seem to last the longest.

  15. #15
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Group 58 was the "small battery option" for lightly equipped cars. Big battery for anything loaded or police IIRC.

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  16. #16
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    Can anyone verify that group size 58 superceded group 64 in our cars?


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    56 should be the 64 substitute. I've seen 58s used in place of 59 and 65 batteries though.

    I think a Group 27 or 24 have a similar enough footprint to a 64 if you needed to get something common.

    My Cars:
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    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
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  17. #17

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    Ill look into the dealer but I honestly dont like dealing with them. I had a couple bad experiences with them with two of my mustangs. I just dont trust them. I think buying a battery from them would be a mistake.

    I got a hold down from an 87 town car because the po had a 65 with a giant ziptie holding it down. I just want it to fit like factory is all.


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    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I bought a Motorcraft in 2017 for my Ranger, in 2018 they replaced it under warranty because it wouldn’t hold a charge. The 2018 is still okay.

    The 2004 Everstart in the 74 pickup is living up to its name. But they don’t make them like that anymore.

    I think most modern batteries suck.
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  19. #19

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    So I can either get a 56 from the Ford dealer with a 3 year 100 month prorated warrenty or get a 64 from Batteries Plus. Im not sure which one Im going to go with yet but the Motorcraft warrenty sounds pretty tempting. I have no clue about the price though.


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  20. #20
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    BatteriesPlus? Hope they won't charge you 50% over list. If that's your only choices, I'd go to the local parts store. Currently running DuraLast crap in my stuff. If you pay more than $130 for a "cheap one" might just want to order one on-line. Mine are "gold" level and weren't much more than $130.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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