Progress on fixing up my 86 MGM

[TwiztidRat]

I rescued this poor thing from a destined demo derby. She has a decent amount of rust it's been in MN all it's life so can't really expect anything less. I didn't think the paint would clean up as good as it did. Now I'm trying to track down some tail lights, a bumper, and of course different wheels. Has some issues but runs and drives good thankfully. I noticed the engine light doesn't come on when you turn the key now so I'm sure that bulb is either blown or pulled. The first few days I got her the engine light blinked when idling when engine was hot but it hasn't come on now at all so who knows if the engine light is on, but coolant and oil is good and doesn't knock so...I dunno if I can figure out how to replace the bulb in the cluster I will but to be honest I have no idea how in this thing, but I am trying to fix the other issues it has.

Plans are full tune up, plugs wires, rotor, cap, already has a fresh oil change I did to it, probably could use a idler pulley, maybe the IAC, and anything else I can think she needs and deserves will be decided in the future lol.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

So the Engine light for '86 won't be for any normal "Check Engine" stuff, it's just designed to come on with low oil pressure or high coolant temperature. If it flickers at hot idle, there's a chance the oil pressure is fairly low, like 4-ish PSI. If it keeps doing that and you're using 5W-30 or 10W-30, might be worth trying a 10W-40 or 15W-40 and seeing if it stops.

Bulb replacement isn't that hard, you've just got to pull the bezel around it, then unbolt the cluster from the dash. You may need to release the speedometer cable to get a little bit more play, but just to replace the bulb, you might not need to pull the whole cluster. You might be able to get your hand to the back and just get at the sockets. If you do have to pull the cluster, I recommend taking the face cover off, and unbolting the shifter indicator from the cluster and swinging it out of the way. It saves you from having to undo the shifter indicator cable from the column.

[VicCrownVic]

I like it. The first pic I take it is a before pic. If you still have those wheels and tires wheels and tires put some '98ish Mountaineer center caps on (requires three lug nuts per wheel and crushing the dust cap on front hubs). http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post824149

It's been quite a while since I've been in an '89-earlier dash, but you'll have to remove the dash trim to replace the cluster bulbs.
Screws or bolts that point straight up on the top lip of the trim and others around the edges of the trim panels. The passenger side panel slips behind the driver side panel and the driver side panel clips into that part of the passenger side panel (possible I have my sides confused) and that is a common break point for those that aren't used to disassembling these things. I don't think the trim around the radio has to be removed, but in case I am remembering wrong there are two screes hiding above the ashtray and maybe a couple more up top.
After removing at least the trim panel around the cluster (I forget if the p-side needs to be removed due to the interlocking joint with the d-side panel) the screws or bolts holding the cluster in should be obvious.
Once the cluster is loose don't try to just yank it out. The shift indicator may need to be disconnected, but I don't remember how that is accomplished. Also, the speedometer cable on the back of the cluster needs to be disconnected along with two electrical connectors. The speedo cable I'm not sure what the trick to disconnect that is, but I remember it being a pain (probably because I didn't know the trick to disconnect it).
The bulbs are 194 bulbs.

I think you're referring to the red engine light which should only come on for one of two things: low oil pressure or engine coolant temp too high. If the sensors aren't lieing then you may have some troubleshooting to do.

Edit:what he said.

[Tiggie]

Looks like a good project. Jack it up and take a good look at the frame to be sure it’s good before investing too much cash in it.

[gadget73]

If the oil pressure sender is unplugged, the "engine" light will not come on key on, engine off. Its right next to the oil filter, so have a look there for damaged wiring. If its got a real gauge installed the idiot light switch probably wasn't plumbed in so that will cause it too.

[TwiztidRat]

Sounds good guys, and yeah I haven't had a chance to jack it up yet to look at the frame under neath just been too hot and humid here so waiting till this weekend before I decide if it's worth investing money into her. Hopefully it will the rust isn't too bad on the outside being for a MN car after 30 years, but yeah. Also yes I know the red engine light is for oil and temp only, and yeah the first few days I got it the light flickered on and off at idling and went away right when I gave it throttle. I didn't know how easy these clusters were to take off to replace blown bulbs either so thankfully I'll do that right away too after checking the oil sender when I jack her up. If all goes well she's gonna get the full treatment it deserves lol.

[TwiztidRat]

I like it. The first pic I take it is a before pic. If you still have those wheels and tires wheels and tires put some '98ish Mountaineer center caps on (requires three lug nuts per wheel and crushing the dust cap on front hubs). http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post824149

It's been quite a while since I've been in an '89-earlier dash, but you'll have to remove the dash trim to replace the cluster bulbs.
Screws or bolts that point straight up on the top lip of the trim and others around the edges of the trim panels. The passenger side panel slips behind the driver side panel and the driver side panel clips into that part of the passenger side panel (possible I have my sides confused) and that is a common break point for those that aren't used to disassembling these things. I don't think the trim around the radio has to be removed, but in case I am remembering wrong there are two screes hiding above the ashtray and maybe a couple more up top.
After removing at least the trim panel around the cluster (I forget if the p-side needs to be removed due to the interlocking joint with the d-side panel) the screws or bolts holding the cluster in should be obvious.
Once the cluster is loose don't try to just yank it out. The shift indicator may need to be disconnected, but I don't remember how that is accomplished. Also, the speedometer cable on the back of the cluster needs to be disconnected along with two electrical connectors. The speedo cable I'm not sure what the trick to disconnect that is, but I remember it being a pain (probably because I didn't know the trick to disconnect it).
The bulbs are 194 bulbs.

I think you're referring to the red engine light which should only come on for one of two things: low oil pressure or engine coolant temp too high. If the sensors aren't lieing then you may have some troubleshooting to do.

Edit:what he said.

I haven't taken the hubcaps off to look but pretty sure I still have those same steel rims, the guy dropped it off at my house with different tires and included those covers he wanted the other tires which were bigger and more better shape basically the tires it has were spare ones for keeping it rolling, but I don't care for those style rims so I was thinking of either classic turbines like my old one had or something more fancy but if anyone has any ideas what would bolt right up to this car please share any.

[Mainemantom]

Just in case you are wondering, those hubcaps are from a 71-72 Ford galaxie /LTD. Surprised the Mercury has lasted this long in MN. Best of luck with it.
What part of MN are you in ? I owned property very near Intl. Falls. Used to buy my new cars in Wadena, Flew into Brainerd a few times. One time the plane landed at that airport in the winter. Snowing and windy. Must have been at least 0 degrees. Airport was closed. No one around. Everyone standing around calling for cabs. Got to a motel. Called the car dealer to pick up my car the next morning. Salesman didn't want to pick me up because there was a little ice on the road. He picked me up when I told him I would buy him lunch. Picked up my new car then drove 38 hours home. That was just one new car story back in the 80s

[TwiztidRat]

I live in Duluth, I picked the car up in Hibbing, I'm familiar with Wadena and Int Falls so that's pretty cool to relate, and yeah winters up here can be god awful. Also I took the car for a drive tonight and noticed the engine light flickered again after the drive back when it was idling. So I shut the car off and then the engine light came on with the other lights when priming the ignition so I suppose that would mean the oil sender is either unplugged or rodents chewed the wires? I also noticed the engine light would only flicker in gear, once I put it in park it would stop. I would think even in park it would flicker but maybe it's cause it idles a tad faster when not in gear? Haha either way the bulb still works at least.

[79lincolnlover]

How many miles on it?

[TwiztidRat]

Hey guys had the frame inspected, and it's solid. Has some surface rust but the shop said it's in pretty good shape so next week I shall start fixing it up slowly. Probably will only do a few things to it before winter hits cause I am parking it once the winter hits. I am gonna probably have the brakes looked at, the oil pressure and engine shape etc but tune-up, new wheels, eh might hold off. Gonna also get new tail lights and a bumper though too before it'll be parked in October.

^Has either 186,000 miles supposedly but being it has only a 5 digit Odo it could be 286k, no way it's 86,000 only lol.

[Hearsesrock427]

She's beautiful! Reminds me of chocolate '84 that Scott did some work on years ago. Good move on saving her! Interesting how the rear bumper rotted from the inside out and both tail lights got stoved in but the vinyl top is holding up well. Figure you've got at least 3 years before it starts to peel off/delaminate and let water in. Definitely good to have access to storage; I've found these builds cost more and take longer than initially expected. In terms of maintenance however these cars aren't bad- assuming you've caught up on everything. I spend about $400 each year on that front, following the severe duty schedule.

[TwiztidRat]

My old one I had I spent maybe the same amount a year, some years nothing but than the next year a few $100 more so averaging it a year sounds about right. I love these cars, my old one also had a bad oil leak and at the time I was unaware I drove it on a 300 mile trip and it had less than 2 quarts of oil left thing still never missed a beat. I wish I found one in mint shape but here in MN it's hard to even find them as nice as this one was even though I know it needed fixing up. Plus I only like the 86-87 years so it's been hard to track one of these down. I'm not a fan of the 88-91s and pre 86 they were carb injected obviously lol. I wish more people would appreciate these cars but sadly everyone is sold on marketing and want the newest junk even though new cars will not even make it half the life span of these tanks will

[TwiztidRat]

Hey guys bad news. I was told a few other things about the shape of the car from the shop owner that the idiot on the phone didn't inform me. Apparently the previous owner never used the actual frame to jack the car up, they jacked it by the floor pan, so the back of the floor is all screwed up, which I did notice there is a large hump on the floor under the back seat, and they told me also the gear box was shot? As in the tranny? cause it works and shifts fine for me, but maybe he meant the housing was damaged? I dunno I still haven't been able to jack it up and look myself cause I have other projects going on and this was gonna be a slow one. My question is what would you do if you found this info out? I'm thinking of just driving it in the ground and look for another in the future that's in more nice shape and just use this one as a beater. I dunno hate to treat it like that but it makes no sense to sink $2k+ and that's to fix all the damage under it. I'm just happy to own one again but I thought just fixing the brakes, and maybe flush the radiator is as far as I should go with it.

[87gtVIC]

I would look to get further information on transmission.

I wouldn’t worry about the floor pan.

[gadget73]

whack the floor back down with a hammer and a chunk of 2x4. If the metal isn't ripped it should bend back down close enough to where it belongs that the hump in the floor will go away. Not a big deal. If you want it more exactly right you'll probably have to pull the carpet and do more careful hammer and dolly work.

[VicCrownVic]

Gearbox? Steering gearbox?

As far as becoming a beater, that's what the one I just retired was; a winter beater at that. No negative judgment from me.

The '98-'02 steel wheels with '98 Mountaineer center caps and snow tires went well with the rugged look of my old car. Although, if you decide to make the car nice, any '98-'02 CV/MGM/LTC wheels will bolt right on. That also gives you a 16" wheel which would allow for the big brake swap ('98-'02 front brakes) later down the road.

[TwiztidRat]

Thanks for the suggestion Vic I will look into that, when you mean steelies I thought you meant the old ones from the common 70s and junk. Also guys thanks for informing me about the floor pan fix, I will try pounding that hump out and see how it goes, i'm not giving up on this car yet, well not that I did but my plans almost changed I thought she was too damaged, also is there suppose to be a small hump by the driver seat where you step in? I think that's a hump too I was gonna try pounding out but wanted to make sure it's not something under the car that's suppose to be there. I suppose if I took a pic it could help but right now I'm just gonna focus on pounding the back seat hump first anyways.

[TwiztidRat]

Hey guys big update, I've finally been fixing up some issues on the car over the last few months. It needed a new front brake job, brake line replacement, the rotor, pads, and caliper. My uncle has been helping me with the brake junk but now I am confused. He initially got the wrong caliper cause he thought the car was an 84-85 and the caliper would not bolt tight to the assembly it kind of wiggled I guess is the best way to describe it. So we got the right caliper cause it bolts tight and has no play in it, but the car still is grinding when you try to move it, the wheel is locked up so the caliper doesn't fully release. The confusion now is the parts store thinks my uncle put the wrong rotor on it, cause he said if it's for an 87 but he got a rotor that was older it would not work cause the thickness isn't the same or whatever. I went to talk to the guy at the store and they only had the one rotor assembly that was stated it was good for 79-87 but this other guy said depending on if the car is the GS or LS it would make a difference on the rotor. At this point I can't get a hold of my uncle to check the part numbers cause he has the boxes, but would the rotor matter if he got the wrong year 84-85 when the car is an 87? Would it also matter if it's the GS or LS I think it's something with the caliper in how he installed it but I haven't had time to look at the car myself but I don't know what to do at this point. Cause obviously it can't even really be driven now cause the wheel is locked up.

[gadget73]

same calipers and rotors on all trim levels 1979-1991. The only real difference is some have phenolic caliper pistons and some have steel. The caliper fits the spindle the same, but the hole in the middle is a different size and the brake pad clip is different to match. Phenolic center hole is much smaller than the steel. either the pad won't go into the caliper, or it will just fall out. Pretty obvious if you have mismatched parts there. It doesn't matter all that much which you use, just have the same on both sides otherwise doing a brake job means buying 2 sets of pads. It will work, its just stupid.



Marquis vs Grand Marquis is different, but its completely different. 4 lug wheel vs 5, and none of the parts will go together.

The calipers do need to float somewhat. The pins screw in to the spindle, but there is a shoulder under the head and a long pin end sticking out the back that the caliper actually sits on. The caliper has to move or it will not release. The pins need to be clean and slightly lubed with brake caliper grease, and the calipers need to have the guide pin bushings installed. They usually look like black rubber things pushed into the caliper body. If the brake hose is shot it might be holding pressure too. Crack the bleeder loose. If the rotor spins free after you burp it, the line is bad.

related to the bleeder, there is a left and right caliper. The difference is where the bleeder is. It should be facing upward and sit above the hose connection. If its below the hose, you have the caliper on the wrong side.

Some pics of what you have going on would help here.