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Thread: {CARB-SWAP}uh, god! Carb problems, HELP!

  1. #1
    Certified Yeti Trainer grandpaslincoln's Avatar
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    Default {CARB-SWAP}uh, god! Carb problems, HELP!

    So I did the carb swap. Finally. But for the last 2 weeks, I cannot get the car to run right. Heres what I did:

    1. Swapped in Motorcraft 2BBL model 2150 carb from '84 F150 w/AOD
    2. 4 PSI External Electric fuel pump
    3. 1974 F100 Distributor w/Points
    4. Stock coil

    The car starts and runs, albiet badly. It will run for about 2 minutes, then die. I can crank on it until the battery dies, it will not restart. I have completely rebuilt this carb, made sure all the passages are clean and free of junk, but I just can't get this thing to run right. I can also press on the gas, and it acts like either the accelorator pump isn't working, or the Vac advance aint working. I checked both, and they are both operational. I keep fucking with the idle mixture needles, but nothing really changes.

    Could I have screwed up the timing on the distributor, or is this a fuel problem? I know fuel is getting to the bowl, because after it died, I took the top of the carb off, and the bowl was full. WTF?

    There are no vac leaks that I can see, and this thing is really getting on my nerves. I may just buy a new carb, at $388. But it could be something else, so that may be another $388 wasted. Guys, what can I do? Advice? Scott, HEEEEEEELP MEEEEEEE!

  2. #2
    Domestic Tourist Lincolnmania's Avatar
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    jon are you getting spark when it will not start? when i converted my 84 crown vic to points, i had problems with the coils........i burned up 3 duraspark coils before i bought a points coil and a ballast resistor and installed them......solved my problem with eating points and coils...........with the engine off move the throttle lever......you should hear fuel swuirting from the accelerator pump if you dont, you need to check it out.........as far as setting the mixture screws is to turn them in till they stop and back them out 1 1/4 turns and adjust by ear or with a vacuum gauge.........also good to check dwell since u have points now...........in the future invest in an ignitor ($55)
    check all this stuff dude i hope it helps u
    scott

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!


  3. #3
    Certified Yeti Trainer grandpaslincoln's Avatar
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    I checked to make sure that fuel was squirting into the throat of the carb when I moved the throttle, and it squirts fuel. I will check for spark today, and adjust the carb.

    Thanks Scott!

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    Ford Fanatic Mercracer's Avatar
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    Did you check your points gap? Do you have a fresh set of points and condensor? How did you set base timing?

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    Certified Yeti Trainer grandpaslincoln's Avatar
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    I bought the dist. brand new, so it has new points. I made marks on the old distributor and matched them to the new one, but I could have knocked the timing off by accident. I will have to dig my timing light out of storage tomorrow.

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    Way back when--I 'helped' my dad change points and condensor on a 71 Pinto. It was running perfectly and this was routine maintainence. After the tune it ran like total ass. Turned out the brand new condensor was bad. Ran fine with the old one.

    Once you're positive your timing is set and dwell is correct you might consider trying another condensor.

    The rough running is usually more of an ignition issue butthe failure to restart sounds more like a fuel problem.

    Since this thread is a few days old, have you made any progress?
    I may have to grow old but I don\'t have to grow up!

    Rides: 2k Mustang GT, 91 Grand Marquis, 93 C1500, 76 Vette (Corvette- not Chevette), 79 Thunderbird Formula F20 (boat)

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    Certified Yeti Trainer grandpaslincoln's Avatar
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    I have made little progress, it has been too damn cold outside to work on this thing (17-22* temps) I think I am going to just have to buy a remanufactured carb, this thing is leakin fuel like a bastard from teh power valve, and the power valve is brand new! SO, I am just gonna save up my pennies and buy a reman.

  8. #8
    Ford Fanatic Mercracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grandpaslincoln
    I have made little progress, it has been too damn cold outside to work on this thing (17-22* temps) I think I am going to just have to buy a remanufactured carb, this thing is leakin fuel like a bastard from teh power valve, and the power valve is brand new! SO, I am just gonna save up my pennies and buy a reman.
    I think you mean accelerator pump unless you have x-ray vision.
    Unless it is ripped, something goofy was done when the 4 screws were tightened down to make it leak.

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