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    Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
    when in doubt take it with you to the part store for reference.
    I did, twat is an idiot.


    Update though. I got the fan guard loose and i have the actuale fan loose. I cant see to well atm. so i cant tell how to take the meteal pice behind the fan off... ( Im thinking i shoulda lfet the fan hooked up to that and just taken the whole thing apart.


    Here's pics :P





    Heres pics of the metal thing behind the fan..



    Any ideas of how to take this off? Cause I cant find a bolt on it.. ( Although i might just not be able to see it.

    Read in my little book ( that dosent have much info until as of late hehe )

    I unbolted the wrong ones hehe. I was suposed to unbolt the ones behind the fan not on the fan hehe. O well easy fix i thinks.
    Last edited by DarkKnight; 12-31-2007, 07:47 PM.
    People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

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      New question though.

      Aye hehe. before tomarow get's here i got another question.

      I don't have a "Flared wrench" ( i don't think ) I know i don't have two. How would you guys recommend disconnecting. the trany lines?

      And what do you mang's use to plug the trany lines?
      People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

      Comment


        You shouldn't need to disconnect the tranny lines unless you need to change the cam or something; I usually end up using Vise-Grips because flare fittings get rounded off so easily, though regular combination wrenches are OK if the fittings aren't stuck too tight. Great Neck flare line wrenches don't do squat, and Snap-On flare line wrenches are expensive. PB Blaster FTW!

        For the ends of the lines, I'd tape a sandwich bag over 'em, and rubber vacuum caps (or more duct tape) are good for plugging the cooler ports in the radiator.

        For removing a clutch fan, yeah, it's easier to leave the fan bolted to the clutch and unbolt the clutch from the water pump pulley. Best way to keep the pulley from turning is to leave the alternator belt in place till the fan and clutch assembly is off.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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          How do you take the rad out though with the, trany lines hooked up? So you just use two vise grips?

          And a reg combonation wrench is just a box wrench aye?

          And i do have a biig ass can of PB Blaster! Woot hehe.
          People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

          Comment


            I don't take the radiator out with the tranny cooler connected. Mangled cooler lines FTL.
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

            Comment


              How do you take the rad out though with the, trany lines hooked up? So you just use two vise grips?

              And a reg combonation wrench is just a box wrench aye?

              And i do have a biig ass can of PB Blaster! Woot hehe.

              Here's the run down in this book on how to get to the timing chain hehe. well see what you mang's think.

              drain cooling system
              remove screws ataching the rad shrode to the rad ( done this )
              Remove bolts attaching the fan to the water pump shaft ( where i screwed up so far )
              remove fan and shrode
              remove uper rad hose from thermo housing
              remove lower rad hose at the w/p
              disconect transmision oil cooler lines at rad
              loosen the alt mounting and ajusting bolts to relive tension if eqiped with ac loose it's belt ( ha! i got a one up on that one i got no belt for the ac )
              remove air pump ( Ihave no smog pump either.)
              remove drive belts and water pump pully. ( I question this. How do you remove the pully's?)
              remove the bolt attaching theair condtioning compressor suport water pump and compressor. Remove compressor support. Caution do not loosen or remove the ac hoses as injury could be done to you or the system.
              remove bolts and washers retaining the crankshaft pully to the vibration damper. remove crankshaft pulley
              remove large bolt bolt and washer retaining the damper to the crankshaft.
              Remove bypass hose
              remove heater hose.
              Remove and plug the fule line at the fuel pump ( I thought my fuel pump was in the tank?)
              Remove fuel pump....
              Remove remaning bolts at timing cover. ( WOOHOO) And those holding the oil pan to the timing cover.)
              Remove the timing cover and water pump as an assembly.
              Remove timing cover gasket and oil pan seal ( Whhhaaat i have no new oil pan seal?)
              Check the timing chain deflection by turning counterclockwise to take up slack on the left side of the chain
              Establish a reference point on the block and use a ruler to check the distance from the reference point to the chain
              O hell you guys know the rest...

              So is all of this mandatory?
              Or can i skip some of this?

              Sory about bad spelling.
              People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

              Comment


                To do the timing chain, you do not need to remove the radiator. No need to disconnect the cooler lines either. I just did mine about 2 weeks ago, the lines weren't in the way at all. The radiator hoses should come off, and I'd expect to replace them. Half the time you won't be able to get them off the radiator or the water pump, and you end up cutting them. I'd replace the bypass hose and the pump to pipe hoses as well (the two small ones on the water pump). Put a new thermostat in while you have things apart. Its a little bit easier with the timing cover and all that off. You can get in there real easy with a wrench.


                Water pump pulley is held on with the fan bolts. Once you pull the 4 bolts out for the fan, you will be able to tap the pulley off the water pump.

                Your fuel pump is in the tank. Ignore that part, its for carb cars.

                The oil pan seal is the rubber thing across the bottom of the timing cover. New one will come in the set. It will probably be stuck to the cover. Just peel it out of there.

                If you're replacing the chain, there isn't much point in checking it, unless you're just curious how sloppy it is.
                Last edited by gadget73; 12-31-2007, 10:53 PM.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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                  Thanks Gadget mang So just get the fan and shrode off and work from there huh?

                  Ima look back to see which bolts the impact wrench is ideal for. I think it's for the timing cover but im not 100 % sure.
                  People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

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                    I used my 3/8" impact for most of the timing cover bolts on the LTD just recently, but one I couldn't get it on, I just used a ratchet handle. If you have a good 1/2" impact such as an Ingersoll-Rand 231C, that'll bust the harmonic balancer bolt right out of there (my C-H 1/2" impact won't), otherwise you'll want to use a prybar on two pulley bolts and a breaker bar on the balancer bolt to break it loose. Personally, I would not have removed the radiator on this project if I weren't changing cams - there's not room to pull the cam out with the radiator or A/C condensor in place, but everything else I'm doing can be done with them still in there.
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                    Comment


                      Cool thanks brother, the ac and rad are gonna stay in place then hehehe. Hummm. I had a big ole good craftsman wracthet, and pie a while back that i used as a breaker bar )... Thats red necking but eh.. it works hehehehe.
                      People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

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                        Pics










                        This last one, is a bolt and it actualy came out of the water pump. Is this right? it suposed to come out?

                        People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

                        Comment


                          Even more








                          Ima take it that that is what the impact wrench is for? I hope mines strong enuff. i cant keep that demn thing from turning



                          Also, I have a bolt not wanting to come out ( WP ) It came almost all the way out, now it just keeps turning. Im actualy think about puting it back in a bit and re trying agine.. you mang's got any sujestions?

                          O And I take it that the altanator bracket must come off as well, seeing how it's attached the the WP. And maybey ever the Alt....

                          This right?

                          And if that impact wrench wont do it how do i keep them pullys from moving? ???
                          Last edited by DarkKnight; 01-01-2008, 02:44 PM.
                          People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

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                            Well mangs, it went good until right now. I preety much got all the way to the balancer, found my impact wrench, got my air up etc, but i can find my socket set for that wrench!

                            To boot that one bolt i was talking about before well, it wont go in or out.
                            People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

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                              Originally posted by darkknight View Post
                              This last one, is a bolt and it actualy came out of the water pump. Is this right? it suposed to come out?

                              Yep, gotta get 'em all out if you're taking off the front cover. Funny-looking little buggers, aren't they?

                              Originally posted by darkknight View Post
                              Well mangs, it went good until right now. I preety much got all the way to the balancer, found my impact wrench, got my air up etc, but i can find my socket set for that wrench!

                              To boot that one bolt i was talking about before well, it wont go in or out.
                              Balancer bolt takes a 15/16" socket. I have a regular 6-point deepwell I use on it. If your impact won't take it off (like mine usually won't - cheap piece of junk), remove the crank pulley and thread a couple bolts back into the balancer, and use a crowbar to hold it in place while you break loose the balancer bolt by hand.

                              Which "one bolt" are you talking about this time? Same one I copied the picture of?
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                              Comment


                                Got the pully off L havent tried the balancer yet, still trying to get this one bolt off the wp... And do you half to take that whole hosing off that the altanator is on? thats a biiiig ass pice of meteal


                                Heres a pic of the bolt Is there anyway i can chop that thing down to get my impact wrench on it??
                                People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

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