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    #16
    Originally posted by Smokestacklightnin View Post
    Cant go wrong with teflon tape.
    I'd actually be concerned about bits of the tape ending up inside the oil pan where it can clog the pickup. That stuff isn't meant for straight threads anyway, its for tapered pipe thread.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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      #17
      have you tried copper washers?

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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        #18
        Have not tried copper washers. The fiber gasket I put up front seems to be doing the job.

        The rear plug still has the plastic(?) washer it came with. It has little "ribs" on one side of it (facing the pan). There is a section of those that seems to be worn or flattened out. This must be the "low" side of where the head of the drain plug head bottoms out because it's sealing quite well now.

        As for the teflon tape I think I only put that on the front plug. I keep it low on the threads. I peeled the old tape off and put new on. I don't want bits of teflon in the oil either. I may try leaving it off next time as I'm pretty happy with the way the fiber gasket is working.
        Former panther owner
        1981 CV 351 4bbl
        1991 CV 302 EFI

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          #19
          I have the washers with the integrated O-ring on my engine. They've been on there since the engine was new. After 150,000 miles they've been replaced one time and continue to seal perfectly. You can pick them up at most local parts stores.

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            #20
            ^^ now, that looks interesting. Are those washers called anything special?
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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              #21
              Not that I know of. They were on 95 HO engine from the factory though.

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                #22
                Don't know but they do work!
                89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

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                  #23
                  thread resurrection........

                  Interestingly.....I have discovered that over time my drain plugs back themselves off.
                  Maybe I'm afraid to really tighten them too hard because I know the pan threads are a little sloppy?
                  ......Or maybe that slop is the cause? (cause they are good and snug when I put them on)

                  Kind of funny......I was under the car "painting" oil onto rust-prone area's in preparation for winter.
                  .......and I see where oil is seeping from the front plug! (needless to say I was not happy)
                  So I get a wrench and check it. I get a 1/8" to 1/4" turn out of it before it feels snug/bottomed out again. Then I check the back one. It's not seeping.....but it's backed off about the same amount. I last touched these drainplugs about 1500-2000 miles ago.

                  I also remember when I first switched that front plug's gasket to the fiber style (about the same mileage into the last oil change), that the rear plug was not as tight as it should have been. I figured that was due to the fact that (for what ever reason) I was using a 1/2" drive ratchet and was trying to NOT use too much of it's leaverage.

                  I'm thinking about going to 1X oversize drain plugs. I've used a tap before, is this pretty-much the same?
                  ....I mean turn it a lil'.....back up and break the chip off....repeat?
                  ....Or just thread the sucker on there.
                  Former panther owner
                  1981 CV 351 4bbl
                  1991 CV 302 EFI

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                    #24
                    Have you tried snugging them with a torque wrench to the recommended 15 or so ft-lbs?
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                      #25
                      Nope, next time I'm under there I'll have to check that.
                      Former panther owner
                      1981 CV 351 4bbl
                      1991 CV 302 EFI

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