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    Tips on working on a 5.0?

    hey I'm into my HO conversion finally!!!!!!! I have so far taken off the upper plenum and alternator and ac compressor and that bracket that the ac compressor bolts to. I was just wondering if you guys had any suggestions on how to make the re-assembly less painful or just a tip in general from your well of experience. I'm having trouble with getting the fan off, and i dont know what to do with the 2 fuel lines. Thanks for any help! i cant wait to get this Lincoln back on the road!
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    To get the fan bolts off, keep the belt on to help keep it from turning.

    There is a special tool to separate the EFI lines. You might want to relieve the pressure first at the Schrader valve if there is any pressure in the lines now.

    Tom

    Comment


      #3
      Fan bolts have 11mm head, best removed with a ratcheted box wrench. As TommyN said the fan is esily removed if there's a belt to hold it, but since you've already taken the alternator od... let's say you're working on one of the 4 bolts, try inserting a 13mm box wrench around one of the others, the slowly turn the wrench so that it's arm presses against the fan shaft. You are not tightening that bolt because the wrench is too big, you are only using its head as a support to hold the water pump from spinning while you deal with the other bolts. In that manner don't remove the bolts immediately as you will need their heads there, just loosen them all and finally remove them at once by hand.

      The tool for the fuel lines can be had from any auto parts store pretty cheap, just as TommyN said make sure you relieve the fuel pressure before disconnecting any lines - for your own sake I hope you will remember to remove the batter before that

      Comment


        #4
        actually the fan clutch bolts are 7/16", but 11mm works.

        I use a long 7/16 box end to get the bolts out, never had a problem.
        btw, the fan will come out much easier if you pull the fan and shroud together.


        this is the fuel line tool you need

        http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tnumber=T70046
        2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
        89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
        88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


        I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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          #5
          Note where the water pump bolts came from. There are a couple different length and style bolts in there, and its a real pain in the ass playing shuffle the bolt to re-assemble the thing. Stick a new water pump and timing chain on there while its open too. I would also go with new O rings on the injectors.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

          Comment


            #6
            Update: The teardown is going well ; i have gotten the fan off and the smog pump pulley off and the power steering pump off to the side. Now I cant get the trans. cooler lines out of my radiator for some reason, and I dont know how to relieve the fuel systems pressure. I DID find a cap on the passengers side front of the fuel rail that unscrews, is that the purge valve???
            1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar
              Update: The teardown is going well ; i have gotten the fan off and the smog pump pulley off and the power steering pump off to the side. Now I cant get the trans. cooler lines out of my radiator for some reason, and I dont know how to relieve the fuel systems pressure. I DID find a cap on the passengers side front of the fuel rail that unscrews, is that the purge valve???
              There is a black plastic cap that looks like it belongs on a tire. Take that off, then you'll see what looks exactly like a valve stem on a tire. Take a small screwdriver or something and press on it. That should relieve the pressure, but fuel will spray out of there so I reccommend covering it with a rag or something.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

              Comment


                #8
                You could take a short peice of rubber fuel hose, push it onto the stem, and run a slotted screwdriver up through the hose and relieve the pressure that way, just hold a rag under it, less of a chance of it spraying in your eyes or something. That's what I did when I replaced my CFI with a carb. Good luck wit it.
                Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                Comment


                  #9
                  89LincolnTWNcar, just to clarify things a little, the valve you found is the same Gadget73 is talking about. The trans lines are also quick-connect fittings, there is a tool for them too - looks like the fuel one 88grandmarq showed you, and is priced about there too. Grab one and disconnect the lines from their fittings, then put a suitable 6-point box-end wrech (or a socket if you prefer, again 6-point) arond the fittings and get them out of the radiator.

                  And since you're there anyhow, now would be a good time to hook up a tranny cooler, goes inline with the radiator one - bend the lower trans-line a little to the left (towards the fender), screw a hose connector in the radiator's lower port, run a hose from there to the tranny cooler, then another hose from the cooler back to the bent hard line. You may purchase a hose connector that bolts to the stock quick-connect fitting (like I did, actually used a Hayden kit), or just lose the quick-connect fitting as a whole and clamp the hose directly to the steel line - seen both ways, your call on it. Both hoses can pass to the left of the radiator, and for attaching the cooler itself either fab yourself some brackets that bolt to the sheetmetal of the body above and below the radiator (I did it this way), or just use some plastic fasteners (usually come with the cooler).

                  Comment


                    #10
                    UPDATE: Thanks for all the help so far , I got the tool and the fuel lines were a breeze. I pulley the injector and everything else wiring harness with the fuel rail and the injectors. Now i just have to go back to get the smaller radiator line remover God this is great stuff I love working on my Lincoln and it's such a big engine bay to move stuff around in!
                    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                    Comment

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