CFI to Carb 85 Grand Marquis HELP HELP

[reverendcolin]

About to carb an 85 Grand Msrquis wagon. Need some help in figuring what needs to be and can be removed as far as vacuum lines, sending units wiring etc.

This is a 302 with CFI and AOD tranny.

I have a Edelbrock 1406 and Weiand dual plane..... HEI distributor and set of Lincoln logs. Had planned to use a set of 1970 heads but that's not happening at the moment so using the stock 85 heads. Motor had just under 100K on it. When it runs it runs good but the mileage is 5 to 7 MPH. I've changed everything except the ECM. and no... can't find a vacuum leak. I'm sure it needs a timing chain and have that to change too.

Want to use the AOD and the cruise ( I understand it's a stand alone unit.) The AC and whatever other power items I have ... a bunch

Need to know about the Air pump... can it be completely removed. I'll be removing the Cats ( I can do that here in NY state.

Anyone have info on setting up the TV on the tranny... I've heard many have used the stock setup or should I go with the Lokar setup

HELP HELP HELP. What to do this in the next couple days. Point me in the right direction.
Amen,
Rev

[reverendcolin]

Anyone out there that can point me to a post on this? I've looked and only found some bits and pieces.

I've started to pull it apart yesterday... can't get back to it till Monday.

I have the factory electrical diagrams and the "Electrical & Vacuum Trouble shooting manual" so I'll see what happens and report it here.

I'm a Motorcycle mechanic and a Chevy man so .... it's been a while since I worked on a Blue Oval.

Wish me luck.
Rev

[gadget73]

find the computer. Unplug it, and follow the harness around, removing as you go. Once the pile of spaghetti is gone, do the same with the small vacuum lines on top of the motor. Remove the smog pump and install in the circular file. Plug off the things that it's hoses connected to, and remove the solenoids associated with it. At that point you should be left with a vacuum tree on the firewall that feeds the brake booster, cruise control, and climate control. Thats really all the vacuum stuff you need to have.

Not sure its physically possible to connect a TV rod to the Eddy carb. Maybe someone has done it, but I don't happen to know of a way off the top of my head. The Lokar cable is the normal way to go with that, unfortunately. I'm not real impressed with the way that cable is put together. Make sure you really have the set screws tight on the cable clamps or it will slip and go to zero pressure. I also remember having to add a spring on the bottom of the trans to pull the TV lever back to zero on one. May have been something funny with that particular trans but just make sure it returns fully with the throttle shut.


Normally really terrible mileage with CFI is incorrect timing, or a bad oxygen sensor. If you haven't set the timing the Ford way with the SPOUT unplugged, check that. If the timing chain has not been replaced, do that. Its going to need it, and soon. When the chain jumps, you'll be replacing those cylinder heads whether its in the cards or not. That will actually also cause serious running problems, and may be the root of the whole thing. When CFI engines run right, they are very miserly on fuel. Makes for a fairly gutless driving experience but they're cheap to get around in.

[reverendcolin]

Thanks for the info. Just ordered the Lokar cable and carb bracket.
What about the air pump? Can I just run a shorter belt or do I need another pulley to pick up the slack?
as also wondering what I can run for a electric cooling fan... Do you know if there's a later model that bolts up?
I'm changing the Timing chain set and the water pump but don't care if that fixed the CFI or not. Just as soon hot rod it a bit.....
I've read others that suggested the extra or heavier spring on the Lokar cable..... will do that for sure.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

[gadget73]

shorter belt is fine. I think its a 560K6 that you need. The number exists somewhere on here.

check 86vicky's threads for electric fan info

also you know you're going to have to do something about the fuel pump right? the in-tank one needs to go away and be replaced with a low pressure pump, or you need a fairly expensive regulator arrangement.

[reverendcolin]

Thanks on the belt.
Checking 86vicky now and I picked up a Holley 12-803BP BY Fuel Pressure Regulator with gauge for the fuel pressure.

[gadget73]

if you're keeping the in-tank pump, you will need to wire that up so it gets power too. Some of that stuff is in the wiring you're removing, so you will need to get hold of the EVTM to find out which wires you need to keep.

[reverendcolin]

Thanks, the fuel pump wiring was something I wasn't thinking about. Checked the EVTM and see it runs through a relay. Not sure if I can use this relay or have to replace with another. Looks like some of the wiring in the stock relay runs to the ECA (ECU or whatever) I figure a 30 amp relay will suffice...... same with fuse and to ignition......

Got home around 3:30 from a swap meet in Keene NH. I started pulling wires, sensors, vacuum hoses and whatever else.... what a mess. LOL. should have it cleaned out tomorrow. Should be able to clean up the engine bay quite a bit.

[sly]

just power the relay from a "hot in run" line or put it on a switch.

[gadget73]

the ground side of the relay comes from the computer. You can change that so the ground side is grounded, and just switch the hot side from a key-on wire. It will need to be one that is hot in both "run" and "crank" mode though, otherwise its possible you can pump the carb dry while cranking if it doesn't light off or prime up reasonably fast. Or you can use any other relay that you like. The stock one is not anything special, other than being more expensive and more difficult to lay hands on. I might just stick a more modern Bosch type relay in there since those are very commonly available.

[reverendcolin]

the ground side of the relay comes from the computer. You can change that so the ground side is grounded, and just switch the hot side from a key-on wire. It will need to be one that is hot in both "run" and "crank" mode though, otherwise its possible you can pump the carb dry while cranking if it doesn't light off or prime up reasonably fast. Or you can use any other relay that you like. The stock one is not anything special, other than being more expensive and more difficult to lay hands on. I might just stick a more modern Bosch type relay in there since those are very commonly available.

So there will be no problem running a 3 blade relay..... Hot from ign., ground and hot to pump.....?

[sly]

better to use a 4-blade to get battery power to the pump with a separate fuse as it does use up some power. The ignition/crank circuit is usually not that high power.

[reverendcolin]

Thanks,

[reverendcolin]

What a mess. I can't believe the wiring, vacuum tubing and EGR crap I've had to pull off this thing.


Yesterday I was able to pull the motor apart... Intake and exhaust are off, water pump and all that goes with it. Removing all the EGR stuff.

I have to remove the tubes going to the back of the heads and was wondering just what I can plug them with. Some one suggested it's just a bolt with sealer on it.

I noticed I have several wires with fuseable link going to the main {Starter} relay. Not sure which to keep. I believe the Pink one will be used for the fuel pump. Any advice on this?

Lokar TV cable came in yesterday,,,,,,, Carb bracket will be in today or tomorrow. Want to order new Bolt set..... maybe today......

Will work on rewiring and setting up the fuel pressure regulated tomorrow. have to get my ass in gear and get that carb freshened up. Never enough time

[reverendcolin]

Another thing.... I was surprised to see "NO" gaskets on the exhaust..... Is that the way they did it or what?