What heads should depend on what engine and what your doing to it. Last I looked Kaase stuff was mostly for some real high RPM serious builds.
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procomp engine heads
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Originally posted by johnunit View PostProcomps usually cost more to make usable than you save by buying them. Think spending 1000 bucks or more to fix an 800 dollar head. All that when a 1500 dollar head would have been a better performer with no extra work.
I'd suggest poking around other boards like SBFtech and see what folks are saying. The usual wisdom I see there is that while lots of people make a very decent inline-valve head, something with non-inline valves, such as TrickFlow offers, is to be preferred. Again, this is not from personal experience, as my "hot" setup uses unported factory GT40 iron heads.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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brodix = winsigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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Originally posted by game over View Postwrote a message to him. waiting for news.
and what about brodix heads?Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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