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    #61
    Yeah... access from under the hood. No issues. Take the whole arm and bar off. No need to mess with the bushings. Just pull the two bolts that go to the frame.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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      #62
      I already took off one nut but I’ll put it back on and take the bar off instead. I’ll still set preload because I took one of the nuts off and broke the other loose.

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        #63
        Came back out here and I read up some on the upper control arms for this car and I think I marked it wrong. Was I supposed to mark the position of the two bolts in the frame where it can slide back and forth? I marked a place in the control arm and on the frame from where it was and measured the space between them. Either way I’m gonna go get an alignment but I wanted it as close as possible to the position it was in originally. It’s dusty under the car so I could probably put it on the spot where there is no dust since that means the bolt was there
        Attached Files

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          #64
          Bump

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            #65
            yes, normally you'd mark where the two bolts are before you unbolt the bolts that bolt it together.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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              #66
              Hitting the knuckle might not work, as you'll need the tension of the spring on the control arm to shock the taper loose.
              using that tool, can you thread the nut onto the stud to make the end more flat? Then put pressure on it and whack the knuckle as was already said.
              ..

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                #67
                I mark the slot where the bolts can slide on the frame in relation to the rod.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #68
                  Originally posted by massacre View Post
                  Hitting the knuckle might not work, as you'll need the tension of the spring on the control arm to shock the taper loose.
                  using that tool, can you thread the nut onto the stud to make the end more flat? Then put pressure on it and whack the knuckle as was already said.
                  I think you might be reading earlier on in the thread, I already did the ball joints I’m just putting the control arms back in.

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                    #69
                    Originally posted by sly View Post
                    I mark the slot where the bolts can slide on the frame in relation to the rod.
                    I lined it back up using that mark I made on the frame and looking at the spot where the plate underneath it was, it was kinda scored and had no surface rust there. I didn’t finish getting it in there because I couldn’t find a 15/16 wrench to keep that bottom nut still.

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                      #70
                      I don't recall using a wrench on the bottom. I was thinking it had a threaded plate in there? Been a long time since I had that stuff apart.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                      Comment


                        #71
                        Yeah it’s a threaded plate. I guess the bolt and threaded plate with the nut on it were dirty because I could only thread it in a little bit then it would turn the plate too. If I don’t hold the plate it pushes against the frame and starts threading crooked.

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                          #72
                          Originally posted by monotonorobo View Post

                          I think you might be reading earlier on in the thread, I already did the ball joints I’m just putting the control arms back in.
                          Sorry about that.
                          ..

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