Yeah... access from under the hood. No issues. Take the whole arm and bar off. No need to mess with the bushings. Just pull the two bolts that go to the frame.
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Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Came back out here and I read up some on the upper control arms for this car and I think I marked it wrong. Was I supposed to mark the position of the two bolts in the frame where it can slide back and forth? I marked a place in the control arm and on the frame from where it was and measured the space between them. Either way I’m gonna go get an alignment but I wanted it as close as possible to the position it was in originally. It’s dusty under the car so I could probably put it on the spot where there is no dust since that means the bolt was there
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yes, normally you'd mark where the two bolts are before you unbolt the bolts that bolt it together.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Hitting the knuckle might not work, as you'll need the tension of the spring on the control arm to shock the taper loose.
using that tool, can you thread the nut onto the stud to make the end more flat? Then put pressure on it and whack the knuckle as was already said...
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I mark the slot where the bolts can slide on the frame in relation to the rod.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Originally posted by massacre View PostHitting the knuckle might not work, as you'll need the tension of the spring on the control arm to shock the taper loose.
using that tool, can you thread the nut onto the stud to make the end more flat? Then put pressure on it and whack the knuckle as was already said.
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Originally posted by sly View PostI mark the slot where the bolts can slide on the frame in relation to the rod.
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I don't recall using a wrench on the bottom. I was thinking it had a threaded plate in there? Been a long time since I had that stuff apart.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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