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    3.08 questions

    On this forum I've noticed that a lot of people have swapped out the stock rear ends and replaced them with different gears. Will swapping out the standard 3.08 gears (what my car most likely has) increase performance or fuel mileage? It'd be an interesting project to work on, provided it's not too expensive or difficult to do. How hard is it to make the swap? And what rear end gears should I be on the lookout for?

    1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
    2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
    2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

    #2
    Yes and no, depends on where and how you drive. But, these cars really dont drive great with anything less than 3.27, from my experience anyway. My brothers '88 town car with 3.27 gears, runs great in town and hiway. Best of both worlds. If you do lots of in town driving, haul weight(i dont mean drugs lol) or have engine mods, you might find 3.55 work best for these heavy boats. I put 3.73s in my lincoln and is very good in town on hills and such but, my lincoln sucks on the hiway. The smogger 351W is prolly some to blame for that.

    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
    1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
    2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

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      #3
      Check your door tag for the gear code, it may say axle? But it is a short code. This will tell you where you are starting. Look up a goodsamaritan post he has the code table in his signature. You may have a posi.
      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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        #4
        3.27 is a very good overall gear. I went from a 2.73 to the 3.27 and it runs a lot better. Mileage didn't change. I changed the axle, but I wanted disk brakes in the rear.
        89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

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          #5
          I went from an open 2:73 gear in my box CV to a 3L55 rear, and so far so good. I love it.
          I should have done this swap long ago.
          My first highway trip I got 25MPG, which I was very happy with. But I plan to check that again.
          I swapped the whole rear end not just the gears, it was not that hard at all.
          I highly recommend this swap.
          Last edited by mcninetyone; 01-18-2013, 08:24 PM.

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            #6
            I forgot to mention, my lincoln had 2.73s before going to 3.73s. In the wagon, I went 3.27 from 2.73. Noticed a huge difference.

            1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
            1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
            1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
            2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
            2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

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              #7
              3.55 or 3.73
              Otherwise don't waste your time.
              2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
              2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
              2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
              1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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                #8
                Well, on a LOPO 3.27s or 3.55s are ideal. But I agree, 3.55s or more are a must on HO or anything more modified.

                1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
                1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
                1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
                2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
                2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by jaywish View Post
                  Check your door tag for the gear code, it may say axle? But it is a short code. This will tell you where you are starting. Look up a goodsamaritan post he has the code table in his signature. You may have a posi.
                  Eh, you would be better off crawling under the car and checking out what the axle tag says. I've found that the door sticker/axle code (and build sheet) aren't always correct.
                  It would read 3 27 for 3.27 open or 3L27 for locking 3.27.


                  -ryan s.
                  08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
                  03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
                  97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
                  94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
                  73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
                  12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
                  Originally posted by pantera77
                  Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.

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                    #10
                    I can't wait to get rid of my 3.08 open rear end for a 3.55 locking
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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                      #11
                      This is not a beginners job.
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                        #12
                        proper gear setup does take some tooling and experience. On the surface its pretty easy, but the touchy part is getting the gear alignment correct. if its not right, it will whine or could self-destruct if its too badly off.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                          #13
                          Set up is critical, but with ford gears and carrier you almost never need to change or re-shim anything...unless something is critically out to begin with. Countless times, I changed gears and carriers from one car to another(all ford parts) and used any original shims (on the pinion) and reused the original carrier spacers with no problems...however I always replace bearings and the crush sleeve...you can get pinion depth dead on by counting the number of exposed threads and making a punch mark on the pinion and the pinion nut for proper orientation...now if you're putting any other brand gear and/or carrier in, then absolutely you need the break out the marking compound and dial indicator.

                          I went from 3.08 to 3.73's and love it...however with my 17" wheels and tires it effectively makes those gears more like 3.55's.

                          Good luck,
                          Don
                          '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

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                            #14
                            Always forget - which ratios provide better City MPG's - lower numbers or higher??


                            "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                            "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                            "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

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                              #15
                              Numerically lower is generally better mileage. But with these cars, a higher gear does good in the city to get and keep the weight moving. 3.55s didn't reduce mileage much (if any) for me

                              RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                              '80 Town Coupé
                              '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                              '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

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