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Buying control arm bushings (need to make sure I have everything I need

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  • porschpow
    replied
    Well, I had planned on buying this for my front end rebuild

    For shocks: KYB Part # 343128 GR-2 / Excel-G
    For springs: MOOG Part # 9114 {#D9AZ5310S} Sold In Pairs Constant Rate Springs
    For control arm bushings: MOOG Part # K8616 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Incl. front and rear bushings. Front Upper; provides additional ride and performance handling benefits; Incl. front and rear bushings

    MOOG Part # K8618 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Incl. front and rear bushings
    Front Lower; provides additional ride and performance handling benefits; Incl. front and rear bushings

    And for ball joints: MOOG Part # K8259 Front lower and MOOG Part # K8310 Front upper

    So everyone here is saying its easier just to buy the control arms out rather then rebuilding them? DO they come with the bushing in ti already?

    Leave a comment:


  • slack
    replied
    I went the route of rebuilding the arms. (And the whole front end for that matter...) It would have been a much easier job if I didn't do it in like three different weekends where I had to reassemble everything by the end of the weekend so I could drive to work. It probably would have taken me at least half the time to get everything done. Like everyone said, whole arms are easier. Might as well replace the springs and shocks while you're there if you want to. You can actually replace the upper arms without diassembling anything but disconnecting the upper ball joint and of course the upper arm from the frame. The spring and shock sit inside the frame rail and don't rest on the upper arm.

    I replaced my bushings with Energy Suspension Poly bushings and ball joints with Moog replacements. The bushing replacement isn't bad, you just burn out the others and hope the neighbors don't call the cops on you for the toxic smoke cloud that happens. For the ball joints, drilling out the top was annoying but I was able to drill them out in about an hour max. I used a pickle fork to pry the rest of it off the arm when they were mostly drilled out. I guess I could have removed the arm first, that might have made it easier. For pressing in the lowers, AutoZone rents the tool and does a decent job. That also isn't so bad. I used an impact gun on it even though the tool says not to then a breaker bar to push it the rest of the way.

    I didn't go whole arm replacement because I wanted poly bushings instead of replacement rubbers. Replacing the arms would be easier but I've read that the poly will last much longer.

    Leave a comment:


  • pantera77
    replied
    Yep, new lower controls arm are like $70.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcninetyone
    replied
    Without hesitation, I would use new loaded arms before going through all that.
    Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

    Leave a comment:


  • IPreferDIY
    replied
    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
    If you have the option of complete replacement arms, go that route. It will likely be cheaper than rebuilding the old ones with bushings and ball joints.

    Now would be the time to replace the springs if they are saggy, shocks, and any of the rest of the steering bits. Its also the time to go big brakes if you've got any intentions on ever doing it.
    +1 with respect to using complete arms if possible and doing everything in one go. I did a lot of that stuff on mine some months ago and put some links covering my experiences in the following thread:

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ng-Feels-Loose

    I'm not sure how similar your car would be to mine, but there are probably a lot of things in common.

    Leave a comment:


  • gadget73
    replied
    If you have the option of complete replacement arms, go that route. It will likely be cheaper than rebuilding the old ones with bushings and ball joints.

    Now would be the time to replace the springs if they are saggy, shocks, and any of the rest of the steering bits. Its also the time to go big brakes if you've got any intentions on ever doing it.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    most guys I know use a wide bit (chisel - like 1.5-2 inch) and let it bang on the exposed shell to force it out. With the quick pulsing of the air hammer, it's usually a quick job.

    Leave a comment:


  • porschpow
    replied
    I was going to let the shop press in-press ot the ball joints.

    Now im kinda thinking that I would let them press out the bushings too!

    I think I do have an air hammer, what kind of tip should I use for this (pressing out bushings).

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    the lowers are also twice the size. Yes, they are huge compared to the uppers... but then they carry most of the weight and the uppers are just there for stabilizers. The ball joints up top require grinding/drilling out. Ball joint press for the lowers. I'd let a shop do those personally, even though it's spendy work, because it's very much a pain in the ass to do. I get an air hammer, that may be a different story as that helps knocking pressed in items out greatly.

    Leave a comment:


  • porschpow
    replied
    I have this for the lower (it's crazy that the lowers are twice as much

    MOOG Part # K8618 Package Quantity As Shown In Image Incl. front and rear bushings
    Front Lower; provides additional ride and performance handling benefits; Incl. front and rear bushings

    For the ball jonts, I have these:


    Suspension : Ball Joint

    MOOG Part # K8259 {#D8BZ3078A, D8BZ3078B, D8BZ3079A, D8BZ3079B, D9AZ3078A, D9AZ3079A, D9BZ3078A, D9BZ3079A, E0AZ3078A, E0AZ3078B, E0AZ3079A, E0AZ3079B, E0SZ3078A, E0SZ3079A, E0VY3078A, E0VY3079A, E1BZ3078A, E1BZ3079A, E3DZ3078A, E3DZ3079A, E3SZ3078A, E3SZ3078B, E3SZ3078C, E3SZ3079A, E3SZ3079B, E3SZ3079C, E3ZZ3078A, E3ZZ3078B, E3ZZ3079A, E3ZZ3079B, E5SZ3078A, E5SZ3079A, E69Z3078A, E69Z3078B, E69Z3079A, E69Z3079B, E7SZ3078A, E7SZ3079A, F1VY3078A, F1VY3078B, F1VY3079A, F1VY3079B, F3AZ3078A, F3AZ3079A} Problem Solver
    Front Lower; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces
    $33.79 $67.58

    MOOG Part # K8310 {#D9AZ3038C, D9AZ3082A, D9AZ3082B, D9AZ3082C, D9AZ3083A, D9AZ3083B, D9AZ3083V, E0AZ3082B, E0AZ3082C, E0AZ3083B, E0AZ3083C, E1AZ3082A, E1AZ3082B, E1AZ3083A, E1AZ3083B} Problem Solver
    Front Upper; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces

    Yeah I am a bit concerned about trying to get the old ones out (ball joints and bushings)

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    looks like enough to do both upper arms. You'll need lower bushings too and ball joints if you want to do all of that as well and a coil spring compressor (the one that fits up where the shock is mounted). A bushing press is a very handy tool unless you have access to an air hammer and large chisel bits to pound the bushings out of the arm. The new ones press in pretty easy.

    Leave a comment:


  • porschpow
    replied
    Sorry clarification.

    I am buying this through ROckauto

    Leave a comment:


  • Buying control arm bushings (need to make sure I have everything I need

    I am buying this to redo the front end of my Lincoln

    MOOG Part # K8616
    {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers335887, 335898, 369816, 382368, 388213, 390407, 3975588, 404228, D9AZ3068B, D9AZ3068C}

    Incl. front and rear bushings; Package Quantity As Shown In Image
    Front Upper; provides additional ride and performance handling benefits; Incl. front and rear bushings

    Is this all I need?

    It says front upper, but it looks liek it has all four to do one side, no?
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