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    Box panther Pedal assembly Removal?

    Wanna pick one up on my next junkyard trip for my 87. Any advice on removing them? I've never done it before and would like to remove it as painless as possible. Looking on how to remove 89 and older pedal assemblies only.

    Also the brake booster as I want to snatch up a 1998 to 2002 NON abs booster.

    Thanks
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.





    #2
    Booster is three nuts to take off, then pull it out. Then you'll most likely have to drop the column which is 4-5 9/16 bolts. Everything is 9/16 if I remember. Oh. You'll have to take all the electronics that are bolted to it off. Then unhook the booster and pull the booster off from the engine bay side. Then the brake pedal assembly will just fall out.

    Personally.. I'd just take yours out. It took me 20 mins to build mine, drill one hole, weld in the tube and done.. You don't daily your car and I did the entire "swap" in four days, at a slow but steady pace.
    __________________________________________________


    1985.03 Crown Vic. Coupe "CVGT" Build thread - china whirlybird, burnout machine.
    The only 6 speed box on a late model frame.

    Originally posted by SVT98t
    It has air ride. I've disabled it since I've been jacking it up and down.

    That is how you're supposed to jack it.

    Up and down.

    -ryan s.

    Comment


      #3
      I think its actually 4 nuts for the booster, but either way they are a bastard to access. Maybe with different tools than I had in my hands last time I did one its not so bad, but I just remember poor access and a small fraction of a turn at a time to get those things undone. You're not as fat as I am though so you may fit better.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

      Comment


        #4
        Those 4 booster nuts are cake with a deep socket and impact u-joint.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          #5
          Booster done/removed from inside the vehicle against the firewall?...and is holding some of the pedal assembly in place at the same time?

          Reason for getting another pedal assembly is so I can just prep it up and paint it and store it until I plan to swap it in on a whim.
          ~David~

          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

          Originally posted by ootdega
          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

          Originally posted by gadget73
          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




          Comment


            #6
            The booster unbolts from under the dash. Its got 4 studs sticking out of it, and they simply go through the firewall and have nuts on the inside where the brake pedal bracket is. Remove them and it falls off. Thats also half of what holds the pedals in, yeah. The other couple are hooked to the column somehow in a way that I have honestly never bothered to look into. I think its just a clamp there towards the back.



            I seem to remember the biggest bitch of the booster nuts is getting them started again. Spinning them off and on is not so bad, but you have to get your hand in there to get it started. Helps if someone holds the booster up at the right angle from under the hood. it pitches downward otherwise.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

            Comment


              #7
              The booster is held with four nuts (15mm I think) from inside. They can be accessed using a long socket and a couple of extensions. Whether or not you will be able to get to the bolts with dash in place is another question. When I did the 85' it was a pain in the nuts. It's a lot easier on 92+ models. Once you get the 4 nuts off there is a metal clip that holds the pedal and brake light switch to the booster. Take the clip off and booster comes out.

              Now to get the actual pedals off, I honestly don't know if you will be able to do it with dash in place. The gas pedal is easy. It's just attached to the firewall with a couple of nuts. The brake pedal though is a bear. I remember on the 85' it looked like a contraption the way it was mounted to the car.
              Last edited by Mr Bean; 05-19-2015, 07:49 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                You can easily do it with the dash in place. It's not the most fun job, but it's not hard.
                2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes, four. My bad.

                  It's really not too hard. I had my pedals in and out a few times. Honestly, I'd just do the swap all at once. Why waste your time installing and removing pedals atleast three times? (Donor car removal, your car removal, your car installed + how ever many times it takes to dial in the correct amount cut from the dash) The dash isn't in the way much at all. Just the wires everywhere is a bastard. I used a deep socket, rag joint and 1 foot extension for some and a 6" for the others.

                  Plus. Trans is direct bolt in (other than the bolts you'll need to order or cut. For the top of the bell.) Drill two holes in the tranny brackets and you're mint. plus the hole in the floor.

                  MAKE SURE YOU GET AN AFTERMARKET ADJUSTABLE CABLE AND SHIFTER TOWER. - Regrets.
                  __________________________________________________


                  1985.03 Crown Vic. Coupe "CVGT" Build thread - china whirlybird, burnout machine.
                  The only 6 speed box on a late model frame.

                  Originally posted by SVT98t
                  It has air ride. I've disabled it since I've been jacking it up and down.

                  That is how you're supposed to jack it.

                  Up and down.

                  -ryan s.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    By tranny bracket you mean transmission cross-member to frame ears right?

                    Thanks everyone so far for the information.
                    ~David~

                    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                    Originally posted by ootdega
                    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                    Comment


                      #11
                      I just figure it has something to do with that surgery she's got planned.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
                        By tranny bracket you mean transmission cross-member to frame ears right?

                        Thanks everyone so far for the information.
                        Yeah. You drill a new hole on each bracket, in the middle of the two holes that are there already.

                        Do it all in one shot. I could make you a pretty good list of parts that you'll need.. Since I'm the most recent to do it.

                        Adjustable clutch cable is key.
                        __________________________________________________


                        1985.03 Crown Vic. Coupe "CVGT" Build thread - china whirlybird, burnout machine.
                        The only 6 speed box on a late model frame.

                        Originally posted by SVT98t
                        It has air ride. I've disabled it since I've been jacking it up and down.

                        That is how you're supposed to jack it.

                        Up and down.

                        -ryan s.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Do you mean a firewall adjuster? Or an adjustable quadrant?

                          On mine I put the firewall adjuster almost all the way out.
                          2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                          2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                          2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                          1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Booster part is easy. Removing the assembly requires the removal of the column, or the front seat. If you don't want to remove the column for the car, you need to remove the front seat, because you can't get the column down low enough to get the assembly down and out. At least in the two cases I've swapped out/removed the pedal assemblies it was.

                            Remove the 4 booster nuts. You can do this easily with a universal and a 14mm deep well sockets and some various length extensions...

                            Remove the driver front seat, 4 Phillips head screws, 4 13mm or 15mm bolts and T50 bolt for seatbelts.

                            You have to unbolt the steering column, the 4 nuts you would undo when you're doing a heater core 15mm deep socket. Obviously undo the shift indicator, and unplug all electrical connections and undo any zipties on the column, or else it won't lower to the floor.

                            You also need to undo a bracket that holds the wiper control module, the cruise control module (stand alone systems), and the cornering lamp relays (if equipped) That has one brake rotor nut (I don't know the technical name. It's similar to the thing you'd find on brakes that have never been replaced before), and one 10mm bolt that's located on the left side of the dash on the body. It's really far up there, above the bolt that holds the parking brake mechanism.

                            The pedal assembly is actually part of steering column support. There are two brake rotor nuts holding it on the front most steering column support studs. The two rear ones will come out with the assembly. You must undo the brake booster from the brake pedal lever. Which is a clip and some bushings, the booster pushrod and the brake switch. TAKE NOTE OF THE DIRECTION THAT THE BUSHINGS WERE FACING FOR EASY REINSTALLATION!!! Once that's done, you can access the 10mm bolt not a nut which is facing straight up in the middle of the pedal assembly. There is also a side bracket, that I've only seen on TownCars that attaches to the middle of the dash support (radio area) which has a very small (unsure of size) bolt on it. Besides that bracket which is easily removed the pedal assemblies are the same.
                            Last edited by 86VickyLX; 05-21-2015, 09:33 AM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Appreciate the detailed information John.
                              ~David~

                              My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                              My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                              Originally posted by ootdega
                              My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                              Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                              But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                              Comment

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