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    R134a Conversion

    K, I started the conversion. I've already ran into problems. I can't break loose the line from the reciever that goes into the evaporator. it won't budge, all it does is bend the line which I know can't be good. So What can I do to get that nut off the old reciever?

    #2
    I'm probably wrong, but I thought the conversion kit had a fitting that slotted into the old fitting, you didn't need to remove anything, of course I've been drinking and I'm relying on a couple years old memory of a kit I bought, so I may be wrong.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

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      #3
      To do it right, you need to at least do o rings, an accum./ drier, orifice tube, and possibly hoses/ other large components if they're no good.
      **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Cruiser
      **2004 F-150 XLT 4WD RCLB: 4.6/ 4R70, 3.55, 90K Daily Driver
      **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
      **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider

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        #4
        I am replacing it cause it's old, on top of that the system had been opened already. So I was told it's best to replace it.

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          #5
          he's replacing the stuff i told him to for best performance
          ripped my first panther evaporator out this morning.....it was so dirty i couldnt get it clean in the case......now i could clean this evaporator and put it back in, but i wont cause it is 19 yrs old.....waiting for napa to open so i can order a brandy new one

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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            #6
            i had the AC conversion in switzerland.
            the "Bosch dienst" pumped some kind of cleaning stuff into the lines, sucked off the oil and old cooling-fluid, washed the system with a dryer fluid, made a vakuum test an refill the whole system with R134a and new oil.

            it works since two years without any problems and the compressor doesn´t make any noise.

            by the way: I finished the engine/trans swap yesterday, it runs stronger and smoother than ever before
            Living in a Box

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              #7
              Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
              he's replacing the stuff i told him to for best performance
              ripped my first panther evaporator out this morning.....it was so dirty i couldnt get it clean in the case......now i could clean this evaporator and put it back in, but i wont cause it is 19 yrs old.....waiting for napa to open so i can order a brandy new one
              Got a couple of questions for that Scott. How much are they? And how do you remove them? Just for future reference in case I need to replace that too.

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                #8
                I think I found the original leak that drained the system. The Condensor's top pipe, that connects to the hose for the compressor, has a hole in it. It was leaking out air today. So my questions to you mangs is, can I get away with using a junkyard condensor?

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                  #9
                  As long as its good, and you flush it, sure. Mine is used, and the AC in my car will make your nipples hard.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    As long as its good, and you flush it, sure. Mine is used, and the AC in my car will make your nipples hard.
                    Ooh hard nipples lol. Will my nipples be so hard they could cut diamonds? Thanks Gadget.

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                      #11
                      Where is the orifice tube? How do you get it out?
                      89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

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                        #12
                        If you go into the ac system be sure that it is not charged at all, we don't need anyone getting their skin or their eyes flash frozen because they opened up a line under pressure. If you need to *cough cough* vent *cough cough* If your system is bone dry, you should find out why it is no longer charged. Anyway, the orifice tube is in the lower pipe of the evaporator (on the firewall). To remove it, you'll need to diconnect the line that connects from the bottom of the evaporator, and the condensor. '86 and up had quick connects. You can buy the removal tools at a parts store it's the same as the fuel line disconnectors, just pick the correct size and put it on the line behind the hump. Push it in as far as it will go and the line should be able to be slid off the evaporator. The quick connects have these clips on them that must be undone to access the quick connections. Just use a screwdriver and pop it off. '85 and down is nuts and bolts. Once the line is removed you can see the end of the orifice tube recessed in the pipe. I would recommend getting the orifice tube remover tool to save you a lot of aggravation. Slide the tool in, pull out the orifice tube when you grab the tube, and replace it with a new one. You want the blue orifice tube. Take your old one for comparison. If you are going for the conversion, you will need an 8 oz container of Ester Oil, because that is the only oil that is compatible with the mineral oil R 12 used. I would suggest you replace the o rings in the system (the green kit) and replace the accumulator/drier. The o rings will include o rings for the ENTIRE SYSTEM. I wouldn't suggest dismanteling the compressor completely, just replace the o rings that are accessable on the top of the compressor. Lubricate the o rings with some ester oil so they seal real nice. Measure out 4 oz for the compressor, 2 oz for the evaporator, and 2 oz for the condensor. You'll need the retrofit fittings. Just thread them on their respective ports, low side (where you fill and suck out from) is on the receiver/drier or accumulator (same thing). *You Might Need To Remove the valve stem in there before you install the new retrofit fitting. You can use a regular valve stem reomval tool for this. Thread on the fittings and make sure they're tight. Once everything is replaced and the system is put back together, use a vacuum pump to remove the moisture and air from the system. If you don't want to spring for the money to get an electrical pump, you can buy a vacuum pump that can run off of a air compressor. Like this one I used. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96677 you'll also need a hose to thread onto the r134a fitting. And a fitting for your compressor hose. That pump recommends a compressor that can run at 75psi constant. So if you got that, you'll be good. Pull vacuum for about 30 minutes to an hour. Then you can charge the system with 134a. You'll need 3 12oz cans of 134a and a hose to install it. DO NOT SHAKE THE CANS!!!!!!! If you shake the cans the 134a will turn into a liquid. You want the 134a in gas form when you go to charge the system. Start the car and put the climate controls on max cool, I put my fan on high. Then you can start to charge the system. The compressor should start cycling. You can see how much r134a you have left in the can where the can is ice cold. When the can is no longer cold it is empty. Disconnect the hose from the system and thread on a new can of refridgerent. And repeat this until you've finished all 3 cans. The compressor will cycle, and as the charge in the system rises, the compressor will stay running for longer, until it runs constantly.

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                          #13
                          Damm, I'll give it a try. I ordered a new accumulator/drier, orifice tube, I have the oil. Where do I get the o-rings and the tube remover tool? They didn't have them at Adv. Auto.
                          89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Glen View Post
                            Damm, I'll give it a try. I ordered a new accumulator/drier, orifice tube, I have the oil. Where do I get the o-rings and the tube remover tool? They didn't have them at Adv. Auto.
                            Autozone should have them. If you can't get them at a store, you might have to order them online.

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                              #15
                              Hey john what is the spec on how may pounds of 134a to put in?

                              1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
                              302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
                              k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

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