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conversion terminal for 3G conversion

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    conversion terminal for 3G conversion

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    so the 3G conversion I did about two years ago went down this week. It looks like where I switched over the charge wire terminal from the inconveniently located rear stud to the top stud completely melted down, stud and all. I noticed from the forum that when folks get the 7771-11-6G alternator, they don't do this modification, so wondering if I should've left it alone. Anyway, I'm off to get another alternator, and this time I won't use that terminal mod...
    95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
    96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
    77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
    98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
    90 Grand Marquis, stock

    #2
    There was another thread that I came across quite a while back, http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...907-3g-Warning, that mentioned this problem with the adapter you have pictured above. IIRC, after having the meltdown the post writer had advised not to use that adapter.
    My guess would be that the adapter does not keep a tight enough connection. I had the ring terminal on the yellow wire (connected to the charge stud on the alt) melt off because the nut on the charge stud had come loose shortly after my 3G upgrade, this was without that adapter. I tightened it up and made sure that it would not be able to work its way loose again and over a year later I've had no issues with it.
    Vic

    ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
    ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
    ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by VicCrownVic View Post
      There was another thread that I came across quite a while back, http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...907-3g-Warning, that mentioned this problem with the adapter you have pictured above. IIRC, after having the meltdown the post writer had advised not to use that adapter.
      My guess would be that the adapter does not keep a tight enough connection. I had the ring terminal on the yellow wire (connected to the charge stud on the alt) melt off because the nut on the charge stud had come loose shortly after my 3G upgrade, this was without that adapter. I tightened it up and made sure that it would not be able to work its way loose again and over a year later I've had no issues with it.
      Good information VicCrownVic,
      what is interesting is that other 3G alternators actually come with this connection - the ones that are the 'wrong' 3G's for our conversion, such as a 96 Mustang GT. Look that one up - it clearly has the 'convenient' top mount stud piece - part number 7776-10-6G. I ripped one of these off an alternator in a bone yard and then put it on my application. It definitely melted down where the red connector bolted down to the original stud. Perhaps the alternators that come with the connection have a good lock ring or lock washer to prevent backing out of the red connector terminal.
      95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
      96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
      77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
      98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
      90 Grand Marquis, stock

      Comment


        #4
        Quick question for the new alternator (my memory is foggy on what I did two years back): I believe you need to use 7/16" drill to enlarge the pivot hole? Also, on the hold down hole (for the slot adjustment for belt tension), 7/16" drill out there too, depending on what size bolt you'd use? Then use a 7/16 - 14 tap on the top hole to provide for a bolt to thread in?

        does this sound right on?
        95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
        96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
        77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
        98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
        90 Grand Marquis, stock

        Comment


          #5
          That sounds about right. I remember having to drill at least one of the holes. It was the right size on one end but too small on the other. You don't have to thread the top hole if you use a nut and bolt.

          1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
          2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
          2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by L1011tristar17 View Post
            That sounds about right. I remember having to drill at least one of the holes. It was the right size on one end but too small on the other. You don't have to thread the top hole if you use a nut and bolt.
            I must say that your signature, L1011 TriStar represented one of the coolest, best pieces of American workmanship I have ever seen. I flew LA to Louisville back in the mid and late 90's when Delta was still using them, and I always tried to pick flights where an L1011 was equipment. they flew the 757's a lot too, and they were junk compared to the L10's. The L1011 lands with its nose a bit higher than other planes. Was first in class to use autolanding and DLC. An incredible plane!!
            95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
            96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
            77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
            98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
            90 Grand Marquis, stock

            Comment


              #7
              Thank you! Those are indeed incredible planes. Back in the 70's, my grandfather worked for Lockheed on the assembly line for the L-1011. I would have loved to have been able to fly on one, although not many are in airworthy condition anymore. There is one in Kansas that they are trying to restore to TWA livery.

              1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
              2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
              2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

              Comment


                #8
                I think I flew my last one around 1998, on Delta, from Atlanta to Boston. the pilot landed the plane so smoothly in rough weather, in November. they reminded me of a Town Car, for some reason, sort of a luxury cruiser...
                95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
                96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
                77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
                98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
                90 Grand Marquis, stock

                Comment


                  #9
                  the stud does keep good connection if you use lock washers or locknuts. It is good practice to check it every so often though.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by sly View Post
                    the stud does keep good connection if you use lock washers or locknuts. It is good practice to check it every so often though.
                    I think that's what I ended up doing, using a lock washer.

                    I've also heard of the need to drill in some cases, I didn't need to and I used an alternator for a 95 Mustang GT. Mine also did not come with the90° adapter either.
                    Vic

                    ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                    ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                    ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                    ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i'm gonna play it safe and just use the rear connector. the burn to the ground scenario has me a little skittish.
                      95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
                      96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
                      77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
                      98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
                      90 Grand Marquis, stock

                      Comment

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