Greetings! I'm happy to join this forum; warning, this will be long. 
While I bought this MGM in June 2025, I just joined the forum today and figured I'd start a thread to keep track of the process with my vehicle. My grandfather bought a 2nd gen in either late '91 or early '92, and then traded that in on a new '03 in late '02 or early '03 (which my parents still have), so I've been around these cars for decades. When my trusty '08 BMW E83 started showing its age at 220k trouble-free miles earlier this year, my goal was to find the right Panther. I could have purchased a new car, but I have no use nor desire for driver aides, dash screens and the forced obsolescence of many modern vehicles, so the purchase decision was made of choice not necessity.
I almost purchased a very clean (living mostly in NY, "clean" is relative...) blue '01 100 miles away with ~85k miles for $2500, and I slightly regretted not buying it, but it needed a paint correction, lens polishing, a blend door actuator and a proactive intake manifold replacement (that I knew of right off the bat). A local '05 CV with similar mileage for $5500 needed some rocker patches and new rear spring perches on the axle tubes (the seller said "well, you could put a new axle in it" when I brought it to his attention; he's right, I could have, but not for that purchase price) and a few other items of junk, but then found this '09 with 56k 150 miles away on FBMP. I went up the following day with a trailer, and brought it home for $6700.

It of course needed a blend door actuator (when I got in there I found a Dorman unit retained by only 1 screw!), and a new AC compressor. I had my local shop replace the accumulator while the system was opened. I purchased a lifetime alignment package from Firestone for $180 and promptly had them align the car too.
Receipts showed the oil had been changed a thousand miles before I purchased the car, but I always change out fluids when I buy a car. And I also run full synthetic and change it on the 0s and 5s (with a veritable fleet that OCI makes it easy to know when to change). So that change received 5w-30 Valvoline semi-syn and a MC filter.
Yesterday with 60,078 miles, it was time to start using up the gallons of leftover 5w-40 QSUD I had left over from my BMW, and one of the dozen MC filters I picked up in FL a few months ago on a steep discount.
I’ve seen folks wrote about oil changes being a PIA on these cars, and if some hack touched the car before you, I agree that could be the case. That is why I replaced the oil drain bolt with a new one from AZ, as the last oil change I discovered the gasket boogered and it would stall every 360* of rotation when turning out by hand. Use a piece of Al foil to make a shield-channel below the oil filter, and its removal is virtually mess-free. As I’m the last one to install the filter, it spun loose by hand; the last one (previously installed by a shop the PO used) required filter pliers to remove. I usually write the date and mileage on filters I change, but my OCD won’t be happy with the clocking of this one.


Qualitatively, the engine seems to like 5w-40. I sent the 5w-30 semi syn out for a UOA and will do the same with the 5w-40 when it’s next changed. I may go back to a 5w-30 FS on the next one and send that in to, so I have numerical data to compare. I will share that data once available.
A view down the oil fill hole shows that oil changes were performed on-time or early, with quality oil.
While I bought this MGM in June 2025, I just joined the forum today and figured I'd start a thread to keep track of the process with my vehicle. My grandfather bought a 2nd gen in either late '91 or early '92, and then traded that in on a new '03 in late '02 or early '03 (which my parents still have), so I've been around these cars for decades. When my trusty '08 BMW E83 started showing its age at 220k trouble-free miles earlier this year, my goal was to find the right Panther. I could have purchased a new car, but I have no use nor desire for driver aides, dash screens and the forced obsolescence of many modern vehicles, so the purchase decision was made of choice not necessity.
I almost purchased a very clean (living mostly in NY, "clean" is relative...) blue '01 100 miles away with ~85k miles for $2500, and I slightly regretted not buying it, but it needed a paint correction, lens polishing, a blend door actuator and a proactive intake manifold replacement (that I knew of right off the bat). A local '05 CV with similar mileage for $5500 needed some rocker patches and new rear spring perches on the axle tubes (the seller said "well, you could put a new axle in it" when I brought it to his attention; he's right, I could have, but not for that purchase price) and a few other items of junk, but then found this '09 with 56k 150 miles away on FBMP. I went up the following day with a trailer, and brought it home for $6700.
It of course needed a blend door actuator (when I got in there I found a Dorman unit retained by only 1 screw!), and a new AC compressor. I had my local shop replace the accumulator while the system was opened. I purchased a lifetime alignment package from Firestone for $180 and promptly had them align the car too.
Receipts showed the oil had been changed a thousand miles before I purchased the car, but I always change out fluids when I buy a car. And I also run full synthetic and change it on the 0s and 5s (with a veritable fleet that OCI makes it easy to know when to change). So that change received 5w-30 Valvoline semi-syn and a MC filter.
Yesterday with 60,078 miles, it was time to start using up the gallons of leftover 5w-40 QSUD I had left over from my BMW, and one of the dozen MC filters I picked up in FL a few months ago on a steep discount.
I’ve seen folks wrote about oil changes being a PIA on these cars, and if some hack touched the car before you, I agree that could be the case. That is why I replaced the oil drain bolt with a new one from AZ, as the last oil change I discovered the gasket boogered and it would stall every 360* of rotation when turning out by hand. Use a piece of Al foil to make a shield-channel below the oil filter, and its removal is virtually mess-free. As I’m the last one to install the filter, it spun loose by hand; the last one (previously installed by a shop the PO used) required filter pliers to remove. I usually write the date and mileage on filters I change, but my OCD won’t be happy with the clocking of this one.

Qualitatively, the engine seems to like 5w-40. I sent the 5w-30 semi syn out for a UOA and will do the same with the 5w-40 when it’s next changed. I may go back to a 5w-30 FS on the next one and send that in to, so I have numerical data to compare. I will share that data once available.
A view down the oil fill hole shows that oil changes were performed on-time or early, with quality oil.


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