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looks good! did you wire your brake light at the brake switch? iirc, if you wire it by the tail lights, the brake light will flash with the signal light, that was tapped.
1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)
looks good! did you wire your brake light at the brake switch? iirc, if you wire it by the tail lights, the brake light will flash with the signal light, that was tapped.
yes. I did that a while back when I discovered that the high mount was installed with a tap on the left tail light. I was not amused by that half ass job and re-did it correctly. Now I have brightness I don't have to screw with. I may put some washers under the housing on the rear deck to lift it up some though. It sits just a dink low for my liking. But that's a job for another day.
took the red neck intake snorkel out. It works too well and I can't hold enough engine vacuum pressure to keep the AC running over 50mph. Without the scoop, it will run 80mph and keep things frosty.
I may be looking to sell the Lincoln. All offers welcome... but I want some serious change for it. $5000 ballpark. I've had the rear axle rebuilt, the AC refreshed, the ATC tweaked and functional (panel will only blow cold air... I think it's a Lincoln thing). I still have the mechanical fan and a fan shroud for it (but this would require relocating the coolant tank I'm currently using - 90 TC shroud and tank FTW - might take the one I have in the 88 and shove it in the Mark if needed).
If anyone here seriously wants this one (93 Mustang HO under the hood with 4.10 to 4.56 rear gears (not sure, haven't looked at the gears) which makes the speedo mark about 7 high at 70mph) let me know. I'm looking to sell my truck and the Mark and get myself a newer/better truck.
MGM will drive till it dies (or is wrecked) unless I take the stereo out and put it in something else and someone pays me over $2000 for it, leaks and all.
ok... The Vic is tuned... but it needs an OSS before the trans will work right. Either that or an aftermarket trans controller (too spensive). Looking at getting a hot rod shop (plenty of them around me) to make a bolt-on tone ring and bracket for the sensor to attach to the pinion flange and diff housing. Essentially something like this 40 tooth one from Jags That Run. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...ctor-Diff.html
If anyone can find something I can buy or if anyone wants to make one for me... that would be epic. I'd definitely pay ya for your time and materials. It must bolt to the pinion flange and be easily mounted (no drilling). It must clear the drive shaft mount as well. It can be one piece though. I'm not afraid of dropping the drive shaft to get access to the flange for mounting purposes.
I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to just stab a 4R70w in there.
Honestly if I'd realized it would insist on that OSS nonsense, I'd have gone for a different year harness. I had no idea it even existed until it got to the point of wiring in the trans, and I found that extra sensor.
No chance you could do something as BS as installing one ABS sensor, and feeding the OSS input from the ABS wheel sensor is there?
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
ABS sensors are 108 tooth and besides... in a turn, the PCM would think the trans was slipping if I did that.
I could also swap in a 4r70w, but then I would have to get the proper yoke and driveshaft (if the drive shaft/trans is a different length... slip yoke for sure).
4R70W - Change the harness connector. It changes from 3 12v points to 1 12v point. Easy for you to rewire.
Output shaft housing? I got you. I'll send you one. If you need it. And it might be in pretty colors just because.
You can't mount it to the side of the case because the direct drive drum (i think) has the holes punched in it for the OSS. You'd have to change out the internals.
Better off with a 4R70W swap.
And make sure to get a cop one. lol.
ok... the ECT was dead... replaced that. Going to test the TPS cause it's flooding like crazy on tip-in... but it passed inspection with flying colors. Shop says it was putting out 116HP when it came in and it's pulling 230HP at the wheels now. 274 ft-lbs of torque too. It may go up once I have the sensors sorted.
and I just found the OSS on the AODE. Same location as on the 4r70w. Different connector. Uses the same style connector that the VSS uses. I may hook that up and see if it'll work that way. Need a pigtail though. Rock Auto to the rescue.
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