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Upper and lower ball joints are done as well as swapped springs. Car is lowered a bit more now. I'll have to wait until Thursday for the alignment.
Then it should be good to go.
Also, the right upper ball joint was actually shit. It was super stiff and hard to move. Now it's much easier to turn the steering wheel. There's less 'dead spots' in the overall steering, so that's nice.
Car has settled, and I really like how low it is. Not too much, but noticeable. I just need to bring the rear down a touch to match it. I still want to install my 3-gauge A-pillar thingy, with Tach, Vacuum, and voltage.
Soon.
Well, I've continued to get a #3 cylinder misfire and my mileage is still crap after the alignment. So looked into it the other night. I did a resistance test on all 8 injectors. The limits are 11-18 ohms. All of them were 15.0-15.2 ohms. No problems. I was really hoping for #3 to be shit. So I replaced it with a spare I had. I did a resistance check on that one too before I installed it and it was all good @ 15.0 ohms.
I installed it and then went back to the garage to work on my school project.
The next morning, while I was driving to work, it started misfiring worse. Like, really really bad. Then the CEL starts flashing. I don't have time to deal with it, so I continue driving to work. Then to class. Then to my buddys house after class. I finally looked at it. You know, it really helps when the connector is plugged in. apparently, it came loose while driving. I must have hit one of those gnarly potholes and jarred it loose.
Now, it runs like a boss.
Geez.
The actual Bosch connectors that were used on the EV-1 injectors are a little more robust. There is a wire bail that holds it all together. The Ford version with the wimpy little side clips that break off kinda suck. Of course the Bosch ones suck if you yank on them and bust the track that the wire sits in.
Ford plastic connectors in general aren't that great. Seems like all of my cars have at least a couple of connectors with busted latches, some held together with zip ties so shit works. One of the pins in the air suspension relay on the Continental doesn't stay so the air suspension randomly fucks off if I don't have the tie on there holding the wiring up.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
The actual Bosch connectors that were used on the EV-1 injectors are a little more robust. There is a wire bail that holds it all together. The Ford version with the wimpy little side clips that break off kinda suck. Of course the Bosch ones suck if you yank on them and bust the track that the wire sits in.
Ford plastic connectors in general aren't that great. Seems like all of my cars have at least a couple of connectors with busted latches, some held together with zip ties so shit works. One of the pins in the air suspension relay on the Continental doesn't stay so the air suspension randomly fucks off if I don't have the tie on there holding the wiring up.
Almost all of them on mine were broken; a mechanic Permatex'd the connectors together and a few of them had orange goo on the terminals; surprised they fired. I replaced them all with the Bosch plugs.
They almost always break if you just pull on them. They often break if you carefully lift the tabs. Its 20+ year old plastic, it was never meant to live this long.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
...Its 20+ year old plastic, it was never meant to live this long.
Humans weren't either, better living through chemistry, science and community where possible. (All items sold separately. Use at your own risk. Not available in all states. Check with your mother before purchase.)
1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge
They almost always break if you just pull on them. They often break if you carefully lift the tabs. Its 20+ year old plastic, it was never meant to live this long.
A wise man once said "Be generous with the duct tape, you know; spare the duct tape, spoil the job."
Now it's time to fight the next batch of codes:
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0455 - EVAP System Leak (No Purge Flow or Large Leak) Conditions
I ran it across the scales and it turns out that the title lied about the weight.
Title said: 3617
Actually: 3660
That's with about 2 gallons of gas in it, and me not in it.
That's 3660 with the block swap and the other stuff I've removed/replaced.
I guess my quest for 3500# just became more difficult....
Now it's time to fight the next batch of codes:
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0455 - EVAP System Leak (No Purge Flow or Large Leak) Conditions
Let the fun begin.
I also broke 170k.
-ryan s.
2 spark plug non foulers threaded into the downstream o2 sensor on the passenger side exhaust. And fill up your tank so the ecm never runs the EVAP monitor.
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