Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

2002 Grand Marquis LSE!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • mercurygm88
    replied
    I committed the ultimate sin today. I converted the Grand Marquis RAS to coil springs.

    Ever since I got rear ended at approximately last June it’s been giving me issues. Every half hour like clockwork the air suspension light comes on and it stops working. I’ve literally replaced everything but the RAS module and the wiring.

    A month ago it started leaking down about an inch over night. So I said to hell with it and ordered a set of made in USA coil springs that ended up costing me 1/3 of what two Arnott air springs would’ve been.

    I really like the RAS and I even unconverted the ‘01 TC I bought that had been converted to coils, but in this case I think I made the right choice.

    It’s becoming a bit of a shell of an LSE, no more variable power steering, no more RAS. But it’s my daily and I have to do what I have to do.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    Sounds like an anti-slosh issue then. But in a way that the older cars just can't manage because they don't have any kind of memory. Interesting.

    Leave a comment:


  • mercurygm88
    replied
    Knock on wood but I think I fixed it. I found a few users with similar issues on CVN. I pulled the instrument panel fuse for a few minutes and disconnected the battery for 15 minutes. Its been two days now and I believe its back to normal.

    Leave a comment:


  • mercurygm88
    replied
    My fuel gauge has been acting funky for about a month now. Above half a tank it's just fine, below half a tank something weird is going on. When you first turn the key on the needle goes all the way to full and will drop very slowly as you drive. If you shut the key off and turn it back on a second time the needle will go to the correct level but will slowly rise and fall about 1/8" as the car runs. It only does this below half a tank, above half a tank everything is normal. Any ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mainemantom
    replied
    Most of the new latch assemblies I have seen do not have the plastic cover. Maybe a dealer thing or as stated, a junk yard run.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    Probably a junk yard run then. I doubt anyone would have a spare unless you buy the entire latch.

    Leave a comment:


  • mercurygm88
    replied
    Originally posted by sly View Post
    There should be a plastic end on the secondary release latch lever (the steel latch under the hood) that looks like that. Never seen that break off before... but if you tweaked it just right I could see it jumping off.
    That's the one I'm thinking of I believe it just slide on, I think it came off when I pulled the plastic cover off the header panel to change the headlight housings.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    There should be a plastic end on the secondary release latch lever (the steel latch under the hood) that looks like that. Never seen that break off before... but if you tweaked it just right I could see it jumping off.

    Leave a comment:


  • mercurygm88
    replied
    So maybe I'm losing my mind here but I swear when I bought this car there was a little plastic cover on the hood release latch under the hood that showed the direction to push. Somewhere along the line I've managed to lose it. I was hoping someone might have one lying around their willing to part with, the steel latch itself is a bit sharp.

    Leave a comment:


  • mercurygm88
    replied
    I was able to remove the bolt from the rear of the solenoid, I then removed the internal siding valve and spring. Everything has been back to normal since then.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    You need a strap wrench to get that solenoid out. It's normal thread, but usually too damn tight to remove normally. Also need to clean every bit a fluid from the outside of the inner part of that solenoid before you can get it out with said strap wrench. Also high possibility of destroying that end if it collapses in on itself getting it out. They may also locktite that in so heat may be required. Not sure about that one though. I know it's f'n tight. That's where my last one failed. The inner seals on the EVO solenoid. I could not get it out either.

    As for a quick fix... start the car... tap on the solenoid to try to get it to release. Move the wheel back and forth... tappy tap tap again... if it doesn't work after 5 attempts... I'd swap pumps. As for the police/taxi pump... as long as it has the same fittings, it should work, but you WILL need to use the PTFE washer on the high pressure line. I use a tall skinny funnel to slowly heat and expand that to get it over the threads as I don't have the cone tool that's used to slide it over the threads. Those are single use sealing washers. An o-ring will not work.
    Last edited by sly; 05-11-2022, 03:22 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • mercurygm88
    replied
    It appears that removing that Allen bolt just allows disassembly of the solenoid. There doesn't seem to be a way to get the solenoid body out of the pump. Anyone know a quick fix to get this back on the road? I have the solenoid unplugged but it's apparently stuck internally.

    Edit: I did some more research. It appears that the OEM EVO solenoid is 1 piece and comes out when you remove the hex screw. The aftermarket pumps use a multiple piece EVO solenoid and the body does not unscrew from the pump housing. If I put the Police/Taxi pump on the car with the non Police/Taxi gear box will that cause any issues? It's either that or leave the EVO solenoid disconnected and hope it frees up again. I don't trust putting another EVO pump on it since I'm assuming the EVO/RAS module is my issue considering both systems are acting up.
    Last edited by mercurygm88; 05-11-2022, 03:14 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • mercurygm88
    replied
    Does anyone know if the bolt holding the EVO solenoid on is right or left hand thread? I'm trying to get the new one off of the reman pump and it's way tighter than I would think it should be.

    Leave a comment:


  • mercurygm88
    replied
    Thanks Sly. Ill take a good look at those when I get the chance. I dropped the glove box and theres one module with two connectors that says EVO/RAS. I tried reseating the connectors, that didnt trick it into working.

    If I can just trick the EVO solenoid into freeing up again I can just unplug it for now. I dont know what to do on the air suspension side of things as I was unable to find the exact part number anywhere online

    It looks like my price for a new power steering pump with the EVO solenoid is cheaper than buying just the solenoid online. I think Im going to try that and Ill just keep the spare power steering pump in case I ever need it.

    As for the air suspension I guess Ill have to live with it as is unless sometime down the road I can find this exact module. Ill probably post a WTB thread for one in the next few days.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    Here's the RAS troubleshooting: http://www.grandmarq.net/sly/2002%20...leshooting.pdf
    Here's the EVO troubleshooting: http://www.grandmarq.net/sly/2002%20...leshooting.pdf

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X