1967 Mercury Cougar XR7 - Project Green Kitty

[SeanP]

Are you running a mechanical fuel pump? If so, you might have a bit of a snag with the fuel pump eccentric with the HO cam.
In my case the original fuel pump eccentric wouldn't fit with the F4TE truck roller cam I got. I think the cam dowel pin might be a bit longer on newer cams, or they don't have recess at the of the dowel.

The motor already has a mechanical fuel pump. 1985 GTs had carburetors (unless it was an automatic, then it had CFI and a flat tappet cam).

Just took the timing cover off today, the eccentric looks good.

[SeanP]

Word. I'm all about the easy route. If anything and if you can spare the space, hold on to the original engine. If not, punt it down the road. Somebody else might want the date-code correct block for their car.

I have room (well sort of) so I'm keeping the original engine. I'm going to finally replace the rear main seal while it's out. Mostly out of spite.

[SeanP]

Where i am now and basically where I started from once it was mounted on the stand. Took a bunch of stuff off of it prior to getting it even to that point.

[SeanP]

Tomorrow the engine swap is happening. Hoping it all goes smoothly! Will touch base after complete.

[SeanP]

Well got about half way through. Ran i to a couple of snags as one does.

the gantry crane i was using dud not lift the rngine high enough to get it out of the car. Had to go buy a proper engine crane from the Can Tire. That was going well until the handle on my leveller broke off. Luckily i was able to adjust the level using a socket.

all in all was pretty drama free. My transmission dipstick got.caught up and well now I have a new one. New cooling lines are on order as well.

Next steps are to replace my extension housing bushing and seal. Then the new set up goes in the car next week.

[SeanP]

I got things back inside the car a-ok, driveshaft, transmission, sway bar and exhaust are all reconnected and am currently buttoning up accessories as I have time/as I am able to. I emphasize as able, as things aren't quite the direct swap as hoped. For example, my pivot stud for my power steering pump is a 3/8 bolt and the provision on the 1985 head is 7/16. Got some threaded rod and will drill out bracketry to accommodate the slightly larger diameter rod. But just little stuff like that is routinely holding things up, unfortunately. I'll get 'er done though.

[Tiggie]

Did the same exact thing on mine for that accessory stud. The threaded rod is working well. Stuff always takes forever. Just keep moving forward and you'll get where you want to be eventually.

[SeanP]

Did the same exact thing on mine for that accessory stud. The threaded rod is working well. Stuff always takes forever. Just keep moving forward and you'll get where you want to be eventually.

Thanks for the supportive words! Glad to know my scheme has worked for someone else!

[packman]

I was fortunate enough to have a chain hoist to remove the 5.0 in the Crown Vic. Unfortunately, I had to buy a 2-Ton engine hoist to put the 351W back in because our neighbor's tree wiped out the garage (along with the chain hoist). Had to install the engine from the passenger side fender because the engine hoist didn't have enough reach to install from the front of the car. Six years later, and the car is still on the jackstands. Like Tiggie said, just keep moving forward; even if it's little steps and eventually you will be cruising in that Cougar

[SeanP]

I was fortunate enough to have a chain hoist to remove the 5.0 in the Crown Vic. Unfortunately, I had to buy a 2-Ton engine hoist to put the 351W back in because our neighbor's tree wiped out the garage (along with the chain hoist). Had to install the engine from the passenger side fender because the engine hoist didn't have enough reach to install from the front of the car. Six years later, and the car is still on the jackstands. Like Tiggie said, just keep moving forward; even if it's little steps and eventually you will be cruising in that Cougar

Thanks for the support Packman! Yeah, nothing ever really goes the way it is supposed to, but I'm trying to find satisfaction in the journey! Losing a garage to a tree is a major bummer though!

Update - I did manage to mount all of the front accessories. Forgot to set the number one to TDC though before stabbing in my dizzy, so fan had to come back off. Was cranking the engine around by hand and noticed that it caught a snag somewhere in the drivetrain at a certain point in the crank rotation. Upon further inspection, I discovered the weight on my flexplate was hitting my starter. I bought some shims, and after struggling for an hour to line up two shims (one wasn't quite enough) I now have a free turning rotating assembly and tests have confirmed that my starter will still engage the flexplate. Oh what a time!

Not to jinx myself, but I think I should be ok to finish up everything enough to actually start her on Saturday. Fingers crossed.

[SeanP]

The car runs! And actually idles pretty smoothly for an engine that has been sitting in a barn 23+ years. Amazing really.

Craptastically, I think I'm still getting some interference from the flex plate at higher rpms as there is a metalic rattle coming from around the bellhousing when I rev it while it's hot.

I need to figure this out... may have to bite the bullet and go with a TCI flexplate, drop the transmission and replace the summit unit I installed. Have heard better things about the TCI flexplate, but still see mixed reviews. Or maybe find a smaller starter that keeps itself tucked back more? Open to any suggestions from the group!

[sly]

The observation plate that mounts to the bottom of the bellhousing is a good place to check on that rattling. My 93 was doing that and I took it off and bent it a little to help it apply pressure to the edges that aren't bolted down and the rattling stopped. Check that one first before you drive yourself nuts and kill the wallet with parts.

[Tiggie]

I would investigate some more. Aftermarket parts are just junk these days, so anything aftermarket is suspect. What trans are you running again?

[SeanP]

Sly - Thank you for the insight! Always good to check easy/free options first. I didn't think of the plate as I'm doubtful it will be the culprit, but I won't know until I look. Thank you.

I would investigate some more. Aftermarket parts are just junk these days, so anything aftermarket is suspect. What trans are you running again?

I'm running a C4 automatic. The Flexplate is a Summit Racing 157 tooth 50 oz imbalance unit (my original flexplate is for 28 oz... because older than 1981/82). Honestly it got mixed reviews and am fully prepared to eat some poo and get another plate if needed. Unfortunately, my only option is aftermarket because all stock ford flexplates that are 50 oz are 164 tooth, which won't work with my bellhousing.

TCI makes a plate that I can get shipped to my house for free through Amazon but it will cost my about $250 after tax. Also, these have had mixed reviews as well.

I've heard good things about Scat flexplates, but not sure if I can get a supplier on my side of the border.

Any parts suppliers with good reputations would be appreciated!

[sly]

I don't remember the history of the car, but having the wrong weight imbalance will destroy the crank. If the original plate from the engine is 28 oz, you will need a 28 oz plate. There is no getting around that. It doesn't matter what fits or not, if it's not 28oz, the engine will be destroyed eventually. It will wear out the crank bearings first and then if not addresses, will wipe out everything on the crank which will prevent oil from reaching the upper end of the engine and kill everything up top as well... if it's even still running. So double, triple check that you've got the correct weighted flexplate.