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Power Inverter in Trunk, Wires from battery through carpet to inverte, need opinions.

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    Power Inverter in Trunk, Wires from battery through carpet to inverte, need opinions.

    Got a brilliant idea one day, to update my audio system by throwing my home stereo in the trunk. Figure I wouldn't have to do any modifications, I got an old one I never use, and wouldn't have to spend $$ on new subs and whatnot.

    So, 600watt power inverter in the trunk, 4 AWG gauge battery cables P/N connected to the battery, through fire wall, under carpet on passenger side, into the trunk, and into the inverter.

    '01 Grand Marquis, battery could use replacing but it starts the vehicle up, plan is to carry around a jump kit or extra battery just in case I forget to turn that thing off.

    That's where I'm at so far, got everything except the cables and the wiring, I need some professional opinions.
    I was mostly worried about battery cable being packed underneath carpets and in tight spaces, but I feel I'm just being paranoid.

    Any additions to the plan?

    #2
    hhmmmm..... how are you going to change channels or put in a CD if it is all in the trunk? lol
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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      #3
      Cable should be fine. I'd route it through the wire chase if there is one and just watch where it goes through things to make sure there are no sharp edges. You want a fuse on the + lead close to the battery too, just in case something does short. No real need to do a negative cable, but if you want to, it won't hurt.

      All that said, this is a very inefficient way to get audio power. You're moving 12 vdc to 120 vac, and inside the stereo its converting it back to something else, probably +/- 70vdc or so. Output of inverters tend to be an ugly waveform, so you may get some noise in the audio that you wouldn't get normally either. Honestly, I'd put a regular car amp in the trunk and call it a day. They have remote turn-on capability and a power supply design that is intended to be run from the voltages present in the car. Power input to power output, you will be seeing a lot less waste with that setup vs an AC inverter and a home stereo.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #4
        Not worth the work.... however, there is a grommet on the passenger side footwell that has a ton of room to drill a hole in for whatever size power wire you wish to run. Pull the door sills up and our cars have a large wire chase to run the wire in.
        2020 Volvo XC90 T6 Momentum (Ice White / Blonde)
        2022 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 Etorque, Built to Serve Edition, (Granite Crystal / Black)
        Past Panthers
        1989 Grand Marquis LS (Cabernet/Grey), 1989 Lincoln Town Car SS (White/Blue), 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate (White/Black)

        Originally posted by Lincolnmania
        if its got tits or tires it's bound to give you trouble

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          #5
          I was thinking of doing something similar....I have a pair of '80s era Bose powered bookshelf speakers, thinking of plugging them into an inverter and then being able to run my ipod thru the Bose speakers....would just set them in the corners of the back seat.

          Comment


            #6
            I wonder if it would be possible to run a trickle charger off the inverter to keep the battery topped up ...

            But seriously, like gadget73 said:

            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            ... All that said, this is a very inefficient way to get audio power. You're moving 12 vdc to 120 vac, and inside the stereo its converting it back to something else, probably +/- 70vdc or so. Output of inverters tend to be an ugly waveform, so you may get some noise in the audio that you wouldn't get normally either. Honestly, I'd put a regular car amp in the trunk and call it a day. They have remote turn-on capability and a power supply design that is intended to be run from the voltages present in the car. Power input to power output, you will be seeing a lot less waste with that setup vs an AC inverter and a home stereo.

            2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
            mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tjc78 View Post
              Not worth the work.... however, there is a grommet on the passenger side footwell that has a ton of room to drill a hole in for whatever size power wire you wish to run. Pull the door sills up and our cars have a large wire chase to run the wire in.
              I actually have 10 power wires coming through that grommet. Each one is an individually-fused 10 gauge wire. It's like my car was made for the system I put in. (Gotta love the 130 amp stock alternator.) I was planning on doing a write-up eventually (including with respect to how cheap I got stuff on eBay and Kijiji), but not a priority at the moment.
              Last edited by IPreferDIY; 07-21-2014, 03:22 AM.

              2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
              mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Louis View Post
                I was thinking of doing something similar....I have a pair of '80s era Bose powered bookshelf speakers, thinking of plugging them into an inverter and then being able to run my ipod thru the Bose speakers....would just set them in the corners of the back seat.
                What you and the OP might want to try just for kicks is hooking up your systems the way you think they would end up but using power from an extension cord. You might find that components designed for a home environment don't sound as pleasing in a car. If you do try this, I would be really interested in knowing the results.

                2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                Comment


                  #9
                  I've actually done something like this, although it was a 2.1 computer speaker system. The system didn't draw much power, when I get home I can take a look at it and see how much power it draws, a 75 watt inverter was sufficient.

                  Because the inverter/system did not draw (relatively) much power I had the inverter plugged into the drivers rear door and an extension cord that ran from there, with a little slack to open the door, behind the trim of the B-pillar, down from there and under the trim of the door sill. From there it came out an ran up between the seat back and trim, then to the rear shelf.

                  The subwoofer was just the right size to fit between the hi-mount brake light and the rear of the seat, it stayed in place without any problem.

                  It was a small system but added some decent sound. I didn't have any noticeable interference, but now it's hooked up where it belongs: to my computer along with a 12" sub and a low wattage Kenwood car audio amp running off of its own computer power supply.
                  Last edited by VicCrownVic; 07-21-2014, 08:50 AM.
                  Vic

                  ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                  ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                  ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                  ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by IPreferDIY View Post
                    I wonder if it would be possible to run a trickle charger off the inverter to keep the battery topped up ...
                    trickle charger off the inverter that runs off the battery to recharge the battery? Won't work. It would take more power to feed the charger than it could ever produce. If not, you'd be violating the laws of physics and dividing by zero and all sorts of other shit.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                      trickle charger off the inverter that runs off the battery to recharge the battery? Won't work. It would take more power to feed the charger than it could ever produce. If not, you'd be violating the laws of physics and dividing by zero and all sorts of other shit.
                      Yup. That's why I put "But seriously, ..." before the next part. I couldn't resist. It does seem to provide a humourous illustration of your inefficiency point.

                      2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                      mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by VicCrownVic View Post
                        ... It was a small system but added some decent sound. I didn't have any noticeable interference, ...
                        That's an interesting result. Was there any obvious difference in sound quality between in-home and in-car use? And did you actually use this setup while driving? I would guess the most important point for this thread would be that you didn't actually leave it in.

                        2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                        mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Although it is inefficient, I have my reasons. I would have to spend virtually nothing, the sound system is a bit too much for my neighbors if you know what I mean, and no real modifications whatsoever.
                          I've already hooked it up outside the vehicle and there's no static, noise, or bullshit going on, all seems well.

                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          Cable should be fine. I'd route it through the wire chase if there is one and just watch where it goes through things to make sure there are no sharp edges. You want a fuse on the + lead close to the battery too, just in case something does short. No real need to do a negative cable, but if you want to, it won't hurt.
                          No need for negative cable huh, sure about that? It would be nice to save some space without another cable, but could you explain it a bit more if you don't mind.

                          Plus, my brother got my mother's old car, a little Grand Prix. Had some 12" subwoofers, a decent amp, and some speakers to go with. He doesn't take much care of the car, so as soon as it blows (probably soon) it's all mine.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The body of the car is grounded. You can find a bolt or a spot to install a bolt in the trunk to connect your ground to.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You always want your ground line to be as short as possible.

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