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Symptoms of being a 'tooth off' ????

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    Symptoms of being a 'tooth off' ????

    Ive heard stories of a car not running right becuase of being one tooth off from where the distributor should be.

    What are the symptoms of this???

    I seem to remember some one saying that they were a tooth off and adjusting the timing one way or another led them to contact the T-stat housing with the TFI module.
    Now - take a close look at mine, and tell me what you think.

    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

    #2
    Looks pretty close to that housing. Is it running alright? Or are you having timing problems? When I did mine, I was off by a tooth or 2, but then again I'm using the '74 disty, which is dimensionally smaller than the EEC-IV disty.
    Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
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      #3
      well, its run the same for the last 6 years... getting about 20mpg highway, decent power, decent hill climbing, decent passing, but by no means fast.
      My only complaint it that past 2/3 throttle, nothing happens. (besides a downshift when appropriate)
      At any speed, in any gear, it goes fine to about 2/3 throttle - anything more and it goes no faster and starts to ping.
      She seems to top out on the highway at about 75-80 mph. If I try to do anything more (except going downhill of course) shes really struggling.
      I retarrded the timing to about 8 degrees, and it didnt make any difference. Then I tried to advance it to up to 14 degrees, and the same thing, no difference.

      When I hear stories of Nate running at 120mph with ease on the interstate, I get jelous!!!!

      It goes fine if you drive like a normal person, I just cant drive like a bat out of hell, even for CFI. The short block is relativley fresh (50K) soi i dont think its just a worn out engine.

      I rarely ever drive like a bat out of hell, so I havent looked into this since it does ok otherwise. I had just been thinking about it recently, hoping that this problem could just be due to something silly like this.
      Last edited by 85crownHPP; 04-25-2006, 02:39 AM.
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
      sigpic
      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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        #4
        I've had mine up to 90-95 several times, and she did it without effort. Still had plenty of juice left to go.
        How old are the injectors.? Maybe it's not getting enough fuel at the upper end.?
        1987 Country Squire LX Wagon 5.0L: Daily Ride......1964 Lincoln Continental 430ci: Toy #1.
        1984 F-250 4x4 4.9L: Toy #2.............................1968 Volkswagen Bug 2.0L: Toy #3.
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          #5
          I had to struggle to get to 105 when i was still CFI. And thats with 14 degree of timing and good exhaust.

          With a carb, top speed is around 120ish...
          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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            #6
            Originally posted by Grand_Marquis_GT
            I had to struggle to get to 105 when i was still CFI. And thats with 14 degree of timing and good exhaust.

            With a carb, top speed is around 120ish...
            Heh, my cabed car and Marcus's grand prix outran you like nothing

            Induction makes a difference in the breathing capability. Gearing helps too. What ratio is your axle?

            RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

            '80 Town Coupé
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              #7
              No, you are not a tooth off. the motor would not start or be very difficult to start if it was.
              2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
              89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
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                #8
                88grandmarq is right. IF you could get it to start, it would run like absolute ass.

                If you're not getting any difference from retarding or advancing the timing, perhaps you're having issues with the actual distributor not properly advancing.
                2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
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                  #9
                  EEC-IV.

                  I thought that the advance was computer controlled?
                  1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                  Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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                    #10
                    It's controlled by computer signals, but if the mechanics inside the distributor are worn out, the computer can do what it wants and won't make a bit of difference.
                    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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                      #11
                      hmmm... any one know how to test the electrical advance?? I have a couple spare distributors.

                      The injectors are only about 3 years old, and the fuel fliter is fresh.
                      Anyone know what the specs should be for a fuel pressure test?? Maybe its time for a pressure regulator.
                      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                      sigpic
                      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                        #12
                        Hook up a timing light and rev the engine? Unplug the sprout, plug it back in, watch the timing light, it should move if the computer is controlling it.

                        '85 2-Door Crown Victoria
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                          #13
                          AutoZone's website list 30-45psi for fuel pressure on an '85.

                          I say put the points and condensor back in there . My mom's '87 5.0 has always had to use 89 octane to avoid predetonation.

                          On my '82, the vacuum advance is all the way against the thermostat housing, but I don't think that applies to you.
                          Last edited by Tiggie; 04-26-2006, 03:26 PM.
                          1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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                            #14
                            ok, how do i mess with timing on the 83'? and is there a vaccume advance on the dist?, cant see it, on another note, new injectors are finally in, runs a million times better, no more sputter
                            jay--1983 towncar, 302v8 cfi, dual straight pipes w/resonators ,edelbrock motor goodies, custom interior, full custom stereo system, full rebuilt trunk audio setup, custom paint...more to come......

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                              #15
                              Pete: that looks normal. If the distributor was a tooth off, you wouldn't be able to get the timing right. most likely. There isn't a whole ton of swing room for that distributor, and if it were off, you'd have it jammed one way or the other and might just barely get it close enough to run. Sounds like its running out of fuel to me, either weak fuel pump or stuffed injectors.


                              83tc: Hmm. EEC III = evil shit. I don't think they have a vac advance, nor do I think its even really adjustable.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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