fastest box?

[P72Ford]

The letter cams are like the TFS1 in the fact that they are both older grinds.

'Modern' cam offerings from companies like Comp, have more aggressive ramp profiles.

Think about it. How far has cam technology come since these were released?

There is a reason letter cams (and arguably the TFS1) are no longer 'top dogs'. If you're changing the cam, you might as well get as much as you can for your money. For a few extra bucks you can have something with modern tech.

I didn't say it was a bad cam to use, or that it wouldn't perform better than a stock HO cam.

If I were doing a cam, I would use something with a more modern tech base.

[88grandmarq]

Mine was the fastest.... end of discussion.

[85crownHPP]

Anyone that turbo's their box, MUST get one of the following plates...

TURBOAT
TURBOX
TTBOX

[johnunit]

Boostbox

[DuceAnAHalf]

best intake would be either a tubular gt40 lightning intake, or a holley system maxII

The best intake would probably be something like a custom sheet metal intake from someone like Hogan

and twin turbos will fit with a 351

[gadget73]

The GT40 intakes are not that special. For flat out flow, fabricated sheet metal is the way to go. However thats not to say they are optimal for every situation. Now we're back to matching your parts to your needs.

[1990LTD]

I would do the shortblock. Not sure what you're looking to spend, but there are solutions that would run the specturm of budget options.

The TFS Stage 1 cam is an older grind. The cam itself is about half the price of more modern HR grinds, which is why I think some people use it. Its like a letter cam.

If you do the bottom end, you could use pistons that would provide improved PTV clearance, which would open up some better cam options.

If I am gonna do the bottom end it's gonna be on a 351w block I think Might as well go with something that has a bit of a higher ceiling in a lot of ways

[gadget73]

thing with not touching the shortblock is that you're limited because of the pistons and their lack of valve reliefs. Honestly for all the trouble to do a full top end rebuild with the shortblock in the car, you can just yank the engine and do it right. Or get a used HO shortblock and do that up. Pop and swap the motor, done. I've done heads on a Towncar with the engine in the car. F that.

[1990LTD]

yeah, I've realized recently how little I want to do ANY engine work with the engine still in there. Whatever happens with the motor I build, it'll just end up being a swap in the end. Old semi-HO comes out and new motor goes in. I am of two different (somewhat conflicting) mindsets here;

- Budget minded. Get a 351w block, put it on a stand, and go from there when I find parts with agreeable prices. Shop around as much as possible and basically do a "budget" build...though that doesn't mean ignore aftermarket stuff (I see this attitude a lot. budget doesn't mean oem only). Could simply rebuild the bottom end with stock stuff since it is probably fully able of handling whatever power the motor will see.


- Go all out...get a 351w block, the previously discussed TW heads (or bigger), custom cam, etc etc....this would not be cheap and it would not be done for many many years. If I'm spending a shit ton of money I want 12 seconds.


I have no idea what 351w block is best, though. Something roller?

[Mercracer]

I have no idea what 351w block is best, though. Something roller?

There is no "bad" 351W block. The thing with "best" is that the best engine is the one you can afford. If you can find a 1994 or newer (F4TE) 351W block it makes it affordable to run a roller cam. If all you can find is an earlier block just use that and run a flat tappet cam. It is not a big deal. No matter what component you are using, you can spend sleepless nights worrying about "best" or you can just use what you can find for a reasonable price and do your best to put a package together.

[1990LTD]

No matter what component you are using, you can spend sleepless nights worrying about "best" or you can just use what you can find for a reasonable price and do your best to put a package together.

you make good sense. thank you for that post.

[P72Ford]

Agreed on Mercracer's post.

Also, if all you can find is a nonroller block, drawbar lifters are still and option. Again, if you can justify the cost. There are plenty of flat tappet engines out there. Take precautions during break in, and you should be fine.

[1990LTD]

I don't know if anyone here has experience with tweecers or other eec-iv tuning but is displacement one of the parameters you can change? I don't know how this engine would be controlled, but since it's going to be fuel injected using my stock wiring harnesses would be convenient. a mass air swap may be in order but that's not terribly different.

i found a pair of 351w motors disassembled. i asked the guy what years and what he wants for what...i'll keep ya posted. if he's just trying to clear up space i might get a bottom end cheap.

[Mercracer]

The block casting numbers are on the passenger side rear in the area that the starter would be sitting near the oil pan and are viewed from the bottom. The casting number will tell you what block it is. The only roller blocks are F4TE castings. Like I already said, there are no bad 351W blocks but some are more "desirable" than others.

[1990LTD]

thanks again!



What kind of power would a stock block take before grenading? Just the block itself...for the sake of argument imagine it was a freshly rebuilt 302.

I see engines that have nothing more than big AFR heads and make 400hp...but I see guys on the corral talking about the stock blocks self destructing with as little as 275hp, and talking about them as if they're notorious for exploding under stress.