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blew a brake line in north carolina outer banks with no tools...

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    blew a brake line in north carolina outer banks with no tools...

    So i drove my car all the way from jeresy to nc with no problems got like 23mpg doing 55 so i was content.... but today went to the store and the brake light went on i blew the driver rear part of the brake line just before it goes to axle... wondering if its ok to replace it with rubber brake line from napa.
    sigpic
    1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

    #2
    Not sure I understand the question. Where did the brake line fail, exactly? There's no driver's side or passenger side before the axle, just one long piece of 3/16" hardline going all the way back from the distribution block.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #3
      sorry kinda realy typed that up wrong...stressed out right now...anyways from what i can tell with car still on ground it leaking from the driver side just before the axle... i ll have more info when i jack it up... i dont know exactly where its leaking from yet it could be distribution block...all i know is that there is a wet spot on frame rail where i assume its leaking from (right where the frame necks in fro the axle... kinda start of rear fender well) and i went and checked brake fluid front bay of the reservoir is empty and brake light is on and i have no brake pressure... thats all i know 87cp, my question is that I was wondering if it is ok to use the rubber brake hose to patch the leak?
      sigpic
      1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

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        #4
        hell no. You have to get it fixed properly.
        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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          #5
          That's odd, thougth I'd posted something.

          The quick fix will be to buy some 3/16" steel line and a pair of compression unions at AutoZone, cut the old line on either side of the rupture with a tubing cutter, and make yourself a patch that will work for a while. Won't pass PA safety inspection that way, and several people we know will blow a gasket about it being unsafe, but it'll get you around for quite some time if you need it fixed immediately and don't have the time to do it right.

          The better (approved) fix will be to buy a couple of long pieces of preflared brake line and a inverte-flare union, and replace the entire piece of hard line from the distribution block to the rubber hose that goes to the rear axle. Or better yet, get bulk 3/16" steel line and cut and flare exactly the right length.
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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            #6
            kink the rear line off and drive it up here slow... I can fixey lol
            Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
            'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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            85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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              #7
              as much as i hate to use compression fittings, they would get you home
              youre gonna need a mini tubing cutter, some wrenches, preferably line wrenches, two compression fittings, and a piece of 3/16" line......how long i dunno......gotta put the compression fittings on unrusted lines or they wont seal

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                #8
                Right, forgot about the unrusted-lines part. Can always just get the longest piece available, I suppose - probably 60 inches ... whatever you don't use will probably come in handy when you go to fix the whole thing correctly later on.

                If getting parts at AutoZone, I think they may be able to rent you a mini tubing cutter if you need one just for this job.
                Last edited by 1987cp; 08-11-2009, 06:57 PM.
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                  #9
                  I fixed it with compression fittings... 36" piece... I will repair the whole things when i get home. But its holding up for now thanx guys
                  sigpic
                  1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

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                    #10
                    Buy a chain about twenty feet long. Tie one end to a cinder block or better yet, a large boat anchor. Then tie the other end of the chain to one of your seat frames. Keep the cinder block on the passenger seat with the chain coiled up. When you need to stop, just throw the cinder block out the window. Done! For better stopping power, use two cinder blocks, or better yet, one on each side.
                    Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                    Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                    Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                    Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
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                      #11
                      Good thought. This is also an occasion where severe floor rot can come in handy. Can you say Fred Flintstone?

                      2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
                      1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
                      But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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                        #12
                        i drove from harrisburg home to reading with nothing but an e-brake. it was mostly highway and no matter how many times i kinked the rear lines i couldnt get them to close off, even with vise grips clamped on them......

                        glad you made it safely with the compression fittings!
                        1996 Mercury Grand Marquis - duals, PI cams, PI intake, J-Mod, MZT, BOC tune, 3.55s, 18in wheels
                        1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero - 5.0 HO T5 Fun Cruiser
                        http://www.supermotors.net/users/tmm313

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