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Upper contol arm bushings R&R

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    #16
    yea i removed some metal around one of the shaft holes so that the shaft would slide thru the sleeve.......really no need to remove the shafts tho unless using them in 96-02 upper control arms

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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      #17
      I see. Removing the shafts still looks to me like the easiest way to get everything cleaned up nicely, though. Thanks!!
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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        #18
        Okay, what do you guys do about the fact that the civilian upper control arm bushing shells are two different inner diameters, and the upper bushings supplied in the 4.3153 kit are all exactly the same? Right now I have one bushing all the way in, and the other one won't even enter the bushing shell.

        Edit: I'm measuring the shell IDs (on the same control arm) at:

        1.250" (for the one that fits the bushing)
        1.175" (for the one that's too tight)

        The bushing ODs are all approximately:

        1.225"
        Last edited by 1987cp; 11-21-2009, 03:55 PM.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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          #19
          Attached: illustration of the above. Far bushing is fully installed and nut and washer installed and snugged down; near bushing refuses to go in.

          My best idea so far is to pull it back apart, grab a sanding drum on the die grinder, and attempt to uniformly increase the ID of the 1.175" bushing shell. This would seem to be somewhat risky, as the shell thickness is about .062" and it would have to be reduced by about .038", leaving a remaining wall thickness of about .024" (provided it can be gotten reasonably uniform).

          My other best idea is to attempt to sand down the OD of two of the bushings. This seems a much more reasonable (and safer) route to take. I suppose I could even attempt to chuck a the bushings, one at a time, in my wood lathe to increase the likelihood of getting a uniform diameter.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by 1987cp; 11-21-2009, 04:09 PM.
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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            #20
            OOPS

            Further threadjack: Scott just told me on IM that the 4.3153 kit is for the late-model control arms. I must now attempt to either locate the two bushings that are different between the kits, order the 4.3150 kit and hawk the complete 4.3153 kit onto someone else, or get out the sandpaper.

            If anyone knows the bushing number stamped on the two bushings that are different ODs, let me know!



            /end{threadjack}
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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              #21
              Use the lathe and turn them down. A wood lathe should be just fine for that, the material isn't especially hard.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #22
                Use the lathe and turn them down. A wood lathe should be just fine for that, the material isn't especially hard.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                  #23
                  late model meaning what years?
                  -Phil

                  sigpic

                  +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                  +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                    If anyone knows the bushing number stamped on the two bushings that are different ODs, let me know!
                    I just looked at my 4.3150 kit - it has different size bushings for both the upper and lower arms.
                    Part of the stamped digits are missing, but it looks like the smaller upper ones read 3341 and the larger ones read 3342
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                    sigpic
                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                      #25
                      Hey, thanks! And of course, AFTER reading your response, NOW I figure out how to view the kit contents on energysuspensionparts.com. :p

                      Now, to see whether this info can actually do any good. Planning to call tomorrow and see if anyone is willing to send me individual bushings, or if I have to go ahead and order the second kit and go through the hassle of a return.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                        Use the lathe and turn them down. A wood lathe should be just fine for that, the material isn't especially hard.
                        Hmmm..... now to pull the lathe down and see how precisely I can get one of these centered. I see the factory finish on these isn't perfect, so logically there shouldn't be anything to be lost if I can't get it perfectly smooth.

                        Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                        late model meaning what years?
                        '90s (the Aero years). These kits are both spec'd for '92-'97 IIRC.
                        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          Use the lathe and turn them down. A wood lathe should be just fine for that, the material isn't especially hard.
                          Well, that was a LOT easier than exchanging it! Keeping it centered in the lathe was a problem, since it's set up to just spike a piece of wood along its centerline, but that wasn't as big a deal as it might have been since I was using strips of sandpaper.

                          Thanks!
                          Attached Files
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            I'm not sure if the factory finish is as-cast or if its lathe turned to diameter. I think the inner part of the bushing where it goes in the sleeve is as cast, and the ends are faced off on the lathe.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #29
                              The outer diameter certainly appeared to be as-cast, though I agree with you on the ends being machine-finished.

                              I need to take one of the shaft nuts back to the hardware store to check my actual thread sizing; mrltd said in the stickies that it should be 5/8-18, but when I took the shaft into the store the kid helping me came up with, I think, 16mmx1.5 or so. Though, it has occurred to me to just attack the end thread on the old nuts with a cold chisel before installing with lots of red Loctite.
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                                #30
                                Those threads are very close.. 16mm is very close to 5/8". They have to be locknuts. Did they put nuts on them or what?
                                Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                                Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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